Brake issue
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Elder User
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Yes and it was even ironic because the same adjusting collar was bound up real tight on the first go around with this shop, they couldn't align it so I told them take it off the lift so I could intentionally drive it around with the clamp off to loosen it and they wouldn't let me leave with it loose for liability reasons. Oh well. I should've taken it to the specialty shop but I like this shop because it's bicycle distance to my house so it's easy to drop the vehicle off and pickup.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
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Plus you will find out if your rear rotors need to be replaced by using the emergency brake.
Ed
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Well I just got home from a ten mile drive and lasered the disks and to my surprise they seem very balanced. Fronts were both 165° and rears were both 200°
Is it possible that a bad alignment could be the whole cause of this pull? Or is the bad disc that's causing the pulse possibly still absorbing the similar heat yet not slowing the truck the same in that side? Seems like equal heat means equal braking all things being equal.
Is it possible that a bad alignment could be the whole cause of this pull? Or is the bad disc that's causing the pulse possibly still absorbing the similar heat yet not slowing the truck the same in that side? Seems like equal heat means equal braking all things being equal.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
Thickness variation won't cause a pull. I would try pulling a few more temp samples just to be sure. While some at this point may say the rears are too high, that's not necessarily true. The front rotors will cool faster then the rear, and depending when you scan the temps, rears can be higher or lower.
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Yes I was expecting the fronts to be warmer but they were quite a bit cooler as you see. I pulled in driveway and felt all discs with my fingers, that kinda hurt so I went inside to get the laser and immediately came out and took the reading. So probably like 1-2 minutes max
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
The front brakes get a better air flow so the thermal rejection is faster. But everything is variable. If the front pads are relatively new while the rears have been in place, you may have some initial disparity in balance. Depending on the finishes and type of materials, we would see it taking 50 to 150 brake stops to fully seat in. The more you get into the details, the complicated things get.
You won't have a brake effectiveness variation without also developing a thermal differential. But, with only one stop the thermal disparity may be fully absorbed by the mass of the rotor. A couple of repeated stops may show it better if it exists.
You won't have a brake effectiveness variation without also developing a thermal differential. But, with only one stop the thermal disparity may be fully absorbed by the mass of the rotor. A couple of repeated stops may show it better if it exists.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: New Glasgow, Nova Scotia
With worn or loose parts like in your case it certainly can, when you brake you transfer weight to the front which will amplify a bad alignment and with worn or loose parts they can move and create a pull under braking . It's kinda hard to explain, I can see what I mean but not type it. lol Your alignment is made up of caster, camber and toe adjustments. One or more bad parts can create a pull. I had a new 2006 150 that would pull hard right under braking but it would be a very light pull when driving , I put it on a lift and found the tie rod was shot . Clear as mud right?
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