Brake issue
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2016
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Brake issue
So I've been noticing the truck pulls left when under braking. So, I replaced the front calipers. Now, it still pulls left. When I got home I felt the discs on all corners and found three about the same, barely touchable, and the front left a little warmer. So, it seems its braking more, but its brand new. So, what should I do?
They are also pulsing a little.
They are also pulsing a little.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 868
Likes: 3
From: New Glasgow, Nova Scotia
Any chance you have a bearing going bad? Usually they create a vibration when turning but not always and they can get pretty damn hot before they go. Try jacking up the front and rotating the tires and compare drag. If you find a big difference pry the caliper away and try rotating it again and see how much difference you get.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,830
Likes: 3,115
From: Jersey Shore
If one is hotter then the others, then wait her the caliper piston(s) is sticking, a pad is sticking in the bracket, or the brake hose has an internal issue. If aftermarket pads, you also can have disparity in pad to pad friction. To tell that, swap left brake pads to the right brake, etc.
The pulsation in due to thickness variation of a rotor. On-car Lathe or replacement rotor can cure that if the thickness variation hasent developed a hard spot. If it has, you can't turn that out and 5-10k miles later you have pulsation again.
The pulsation in due to thickness variation of a rotor. On-car Lathe or replacement rotor can cure that if the thickness variation hasent developed a hard spot. If it has, you can't turn that out and 5-10k miles later you have pulsation again.
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Elder User
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Ahh all good points thank you. I will check bearings first and then go from there. I don't think it's the rubber lines because they gravity bled out pretty well.
Also can't be calipers or pads because symptoms were similar before caliper change.
I'm thinking wheel bearing is what's up.
I didn't turn rotors so I'll check that also. Thanks.
Also can't be calipers or pads because symptoms were similar before caliper change.
I'm thinking wheel bearing is what's up.
I didn't turn rotors so I'll check that also. Thanks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 20
If new calipers are still sticking then the rubber caliber hoses probably need to be replaced. If the truck is old with a lot of miles, then all 5 hoses should be replaced. I eliminated that potential problem on mine by replacing the OEM hoses at 125K with Russell Teflon/stainless steel hoses. Great product.
Pulsating usually means that the rotors are warped and need to be turned.
Ed
Pulsating usually means that the rotors are warped and need to be turned.
Ed
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,830
Likes: 3,115
From: Jersey Shore
I never expect rebuilt calipers to not have the same issue as the ones coming off.
Were the pads replaced too? They were not mentioned. If so, were the brackets cleaned or replaced?
If they are carryover from the problem period, that one side can be a little more aggressive to the thermal conditioning and may need some wear time before settling.
Rubber hoses can be weird and magical. The problem is always a tear in the inner layer, which under pressure gets fluid behind it and acts as a valve. So don't discount it because it works fine under gravity bleed as its under pressure when the issue occurs.
Were the pads replaced too? They were not mentioned. If so, were the brackets cleaned or replaced?
If they are carryover from the problem period, that one side can be a little more aggressive to the thermal conditioning and may need some wear time before settling.
Rubber hoses can be weird and magical. The problem is always a tear in the inner layer, which under pressure gets fluid behind it and acts as a valve. So don't discount it because it works fine under gravity bleed as its under pressure when the issue occurs.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
30 years of vehicle testing, using very expensive test equipment, the only time we ever measured "warping" was during the period of time when companies used two piece rotors where the rubbing discs were cast over a sheet metal hat or lugs were torqued inconsistently and stress distorted the rotor. However, they do develop thickness variation from excessive installed runout, causing pulsation and therefore thermal disparity, which then develops into hard spots which can't be machined out.
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Elder User
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Hmm interesting. Yes pads were replaced but disks were left along as they seemed okay and ive never been one to mess with discs unless needed which most of the time they don't need any fussing.
Looking around preliminarily at hubs and wow, massive price range, 60$-260$ and many options that seem hard to narrow down.
Looks like I have 4w abs, and SRW, and manual lock hubs. Most seem to be for electric hubs, also there's a fine vs coarse thread option. SO basically I'm scared to order the cheaper option in fear that it won't be right.
Of course first need to diagnose properly but the wheel bearing is making a lot of sense, coupled with a funky rotor as well, which could probably also be on a different wheel.
Looking around preliminarily at hubs and wow, massive price range, 60$-260$ and many options that seem hard to narrow down.
Looks like I have 4w abs, and SRW, and manual lock hubs. Most seem to be for electric hubs, also there's a fine vs coarse thread option. SO basically I'm scared to order the cheaper option in fear that it won't be right.
Of course first need to diagnose properly but the wheel bearing is making a lot of sense, coupled with a funky rotor as well, which could probably also be on a different wheel.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,777
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From: France
Bit of a pain bleeding calipers the wrong way round as the screws are at the bottom so you can only do it before mounting. I second the hoses - I'm fitting new ones myself at the weekend because of just this problem
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
I meant to say rotors.
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Elder User
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Well I jacked up the tire and felt the bearings. They actually felt pretty smooth but pushing and pulling the tire revealed considerable slop in the main tie rod thing at the adjusting sleeve. The "alignment shop" seems to have torqued them to some very light value. I cranked the bolts down a little more and that helped the wander and pull a little, but still pulling to left. I may swap rotors and see what that does.
Where's a good place to order hoses? Are they available as a set of 5?
Where's a good place to order hoses? Are they available as a set of 5?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 868
Likes: 3
From: New Glasgow, Nova Scotia
If it was that loose your alignment may be still off and causing your pull. Swapping rotors won't do anything for it pulling left, it would just change what side pulses during braking. That's is pretty scary to think they left the adjuster that loose, that's a big safety concern. I had the alignment shop leave the upper control arm bolts loose on my first truck and the adjusting shims fell out going to work the next day, it was just an old chev 1/2 ton , yes chev, I was trying to prove Dad wrong and proved him right even more. Been nothing but Fords for the last 30 years. 