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E4OD replacement questions

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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 03:38 PM
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E4OD replacement questions

The front (output) fitting that is in the transmission is a Ford part #7D273. This is a flow-through device with no restrictions.

The rear (inlet) fitting that is in the transmission is a Ford part #7D174. This is a check valve to prevent draining the torque converter between uses.

The 1/4" cooling line connectors then fits into these things.


Two questions:

What is the internal diameter of these fittings (7D273 and 7D174)?

Is there any benefit or drawback to upgrading the cooling lines from 1/4" to 3/8" which will match the inlet/outlet of the new cooler I'm planning to install since there doesn't seem to be a 1/4" version of any plate-n-fin coolers out there?

TIA

Edited the title to match the flow of the thread.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 04:15 PM
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Increasing the line size from 5/16" to 3/8" will make the cooler a bit more effective. It's not a huge change, but it will help. There is no downside to this change.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 11:33 AM
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k. Now, if someone could summarize oil flow, I'd become even more knowledgeable. ;-)

Start with the oil in the pan. Just the basics, pump, torque converter, filter, cooler, bypass, the simple things.

My assumption is this: Pan...pump...torque converter...cooler out/bypass...cooler...cooler in...valves...filter...pan.

Am I close?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 09:41 PM
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Pan, filter, pump, valve body, then it divides. Some goes to the converter, some goes to the clutches. Oil out of the clutches dumps back to the pan. Flow from the converter goes to the radiator cooler, then to the aux cooler, then to the lube system for the rear of the trans, then back to the pan.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 01:53 PM
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Cool. That's the simple answer I was looking for. Thank you.

I'm in the process of replacing my E4OD so I'm trying to find out things that might increase it's longevity and my understanding of how it operates. Previous owner(s) got over 220,000 out of the first one. I'd like to get the same or more out of my remanufactured replacement.

Now for the eternal question. And it seems that you might know the answer...when placing a temperature gauge on one of these E4ODs, where's the best place to do that? For everyday driving, 4-wheeling, or even hauling, does it really matter? I mean, we're not building a machine with close tolerances to create a rocket to Mars, we just need to know when things are getting too hot. Some say to use the pressure test port, some say put the sensor in the output to the cooler, some say put it in the pan. Is there that much temperature differential between these options?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by seschenburg
Cool. That's the simple answer I was looking for. Thank you.

I'm in the process of replacing my E4OD so I'm trying to find out things that might increase it's longevity and my understanding of how it operates. Previous owner(s) got over 220,000 out of the first one. I'd like to get the same or more out of my remanufactured replacement.

Now for the eternal question. And it seems that you might know the answer...when placing a temperature gauge on one of these E4ODs, where's the best place to do that? For everyday driving, 4-wheeling, or even hauling, does it really matter? I mean, we're not building a machine with close tolerances to create a rocket to Mars, we just need to know when things are getting too hot. Some say to use the pressure test port, some say put the sensor in the output to the cooler, some say put it in the pan. Is there that much temperature differential between these options?
Yes, there is a big difference between those three locations. I my opinion the best spot is the pressure port. That will give you an average reading. The line to the cooler will vary by a huge amount and these is no way to keep that reading in control. The pan is the coldest spot in the trans.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 02:56 PM
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Between the pressure port and putting a hole in the pan I would prefer the pressure port anyway. And, like I said, all I really need to know is if it's getting excessively hot, not what the exact temperature is.

One more question, if you don't mind. Is it worth the trouble to fill the torque converter so it isn't dry on first start, or will the oil get there fast enough if it's all in the pan to begin with?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Yes, there is a big difference between those three locations.
Those are add on sensor locations. If a person has the ability to read the sensor the computer sees, would this be better?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2016 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by seschenburg
Is it worth the trouble to fill the torque converter so it isn't dry on first start, or will the oil get there fast enough if it's all in the pan to begin with?
Ford builds millions of transmissions every year. None of them have a pre-filled torque converter.

Originally Posted by LeoJr
Those are add on sensor locations. If a person has the ability to read the sensor the computer sees, would this be better?
I think that would be the best temperature reading.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by LeoJr
Those are add on sensor locations. If a person has the ability to read the sensor the computer sees, would this be better?
Is that even possible? The actual sensor is internal to the transmission.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 09:42 AM
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It isn't possible to connect it to an external gauge, but there are many readers that plug into the OBD port that can read and display the temperature from this sensor.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 09:53 AM
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That's good to know, but my 94 only has OBD-1.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 02:52 PM
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So I'm also replacing the plastic shield for the solenoid and MLPS plugs. I noticed two things:

1. There are wires dedicated to the transmission temperature sensor in the solenoid plug. Ever hear of someone tapping into these to use for input to a temperature gauge?

2. As I'm moving wires to the new MLPS plug housing I see that two of them are reversed: the Ground (Blk, pin 8) and the 4x4 shift module (R/W, pin 5). I've had no obvious transmission problems that could be related to this and the 4x4 seems to work ok. Is it possible the factory miswired these two pins? Or maybe they are both ground connectors?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by seschenburg
1. There are wires dedicated to the transmission temperature sensor in the solenoid plug. Ever hear of someone tapping into these to use for input to a temperature gauge?
Yes. Then the PCM had an error code, the OD OFF light flashed, and the trans went into default operation. And the gauge didn't read correctly, either.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2016 | 03:12 PM
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I was afraid of that. Adding another component in-circuit would change the temperature/voltage measurement and the resulting computer response. I was hoping that some electronic genius might have an answer here. Hmmm. Ok. Dropping that idea.
 
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