E4OD replacement questions
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2015
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E4OD replacement questions
The front (output) fitting that is in the transmission is a Ford part #7D273. This is a flow-through device with no restrictions.
The rear (inlet) fitting that is in the transmission is a Ford part #7D174. This is a check valve to prevent draining the torque converter between uses.
The 1/4" cooling line connectors then fits into these things.
Two questions:
What is the internal diameter of these fittings (7D273 and 7D174)?
Is there any benefit or drawback to upgrading the cooling lines from 1/4" to 3/8" which will match the inlet/outlet of the new cooler I'm planning to install since there doesn't seem to be a 1/4" version of any plate-n-fin coolers out there?
TIA
Edited the title to match the flow of the thread.
The rear (inlet) fitting that is in the transmission is a Ford part #7D174. This is a check valve to prevent draining the torque converter between uses.
The 1/4" cooling line connectors then fits into these things.
Two questions:
What is the internal diameter of these fittings (7D273 and 7D174)?
Is there any benefit or drawback to upgrading the cooling lines from 1/4" to 3/8" which will match the inlet/outlet of the new cooler I'm planning to install since there doesn't seem to be a 1/4" version of any plate-n-fin coolers out there?
TIA
Edited the title to match the flow of the thread.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2015
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k. Now, if someone could summarize oil flow, I'd become even more knowledgeable. ;-)
Start with the oil in the pan. Just the basics, pump, torque converter, filter, cooler, bypass, the simple things.
My assumption is this: Pan...pump...torque converter...cooler out/bypass...cooler...cooler in...valves...filter...pan.
Am I close?
Start with the oil in the pan. Just the basics, pump, torque converter, filter, cooler, bypass, the simple things.
My assumption is this: Pan...pump...torque converter...cooler out/bypass...cooler...cooler in...valves...filter...pan.
Am I close?
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,730
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From: SE Florida
Pan, filter, pump, valve body, then it divides. Some goes to the converter, some goes to the clutches. Oil out of the clutches dumps back to the pan. Flow from the converter goes to the radiator cooler, then to the aux cooler, then to the lube system for the rear of the trans, then back to the pan.
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Tuned
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Cool. That's the simple answer I was looking for. Thank you.
I'm in the process of replacing my E4OD so I'm trying to find out things that might increase it's longevity and my understanding of how it operates. Previous owner(s) got over 220,000 out of the first one. I'd like to get the same or more out of my remanufactured replacement.
Now for the eternal question. And it seems that you might know the answer...when placing a temperature gauge on one of these E4ODs, where's the best place to do that? For everyday driving, 4-wheeling, or even hauling, does it really matter? I mean, we're not building a machine with close tolerances to create a rocket to Mars, we just need to know when things are getting too hot. Some say to use the pressure test port, some say put the sensor in the output to the cooler, some say put it in the pan. Is there that much temperature differential between these options?
I'm in the process of replacing my E4OD so I'm trying to find out things that might increase it's longevity and my understanding of how it operates. Previous owner(s) got over 220,000 out of the first one. I'd like to get the same or more out of my remanufactured replacement.
Now for the eternal question. And it seems that you might know the answer...when placing a temperature gauge on one of these E4ODs, where's the best place to do that? For everyday driving, 4-wheeling, or even hauling, does it really matter? I mean, we're not building a machine with close tolerances to create a rocket to Mars, we just need to know when things are getting too hot. Some say to use the pressure test port, some say put the sensor in the output to the cooler, some say put it in the pan. Is there that much temperature differential between these options?
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,730
Likes: 2,658
From: SE Florida
Cool. That's the simple answer I was looking for. Thank you.
I'm in the process of replacing my E4OD so I'm trying to find out things that might increase it's longevity and my understanding of how it operates. Previous owner(s) got over 220,000 out of the first one. I'd like to get the same or more out of my remanufactured replacement.
Now for the eternal question. And it seems that you might know the answer...when placing a temperature gauge on one of these E4ODs, where's the best place to do that? For everyday driving, 4-wheeling, or even hauling, does it really matter? I mean, we're not building a machine with close tolerances to create a rocket to Mars, we just need to know when things are getting too hot. Some say to use the pressure test port, some say put the sensor in the output to the cooler, some say put it in the pan. Is there that much temperature differential between these options?
I'm in the process of replacing my E4OD so I'm trying to find out things that might increase it's longevity and my understanding of how it operates. Previous owner(s) got over 220,000 out of the first one. I'd like to get the same or more out of my remanufactured replacement.
Now for the eternal question. And it seems that you might know the answer...when placing a temperature gauge on one of these E4ODs, where's the best place to do that? For everyday driving, 4-wheeling, or even hauling, does it really matter? I mean, we're not building a machine with close tolerances to create a rocket to Mars, we just need to know when things are getting too hot. Some say to use the pressure test port, some say put the sensor in the output to the cooler, some say put it in the pan. Is there that much temperature differential between these options?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2015
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Between the pressure port and putting a hole in the pan I would prefer the pressure port anyway. And, like I said, all I really need to know is if it's getting excessively hot, not what the exact temperature is.
One more question, if you don't mind. Is it worth the trouble to fill the torque converter so it isn't dry on first start, or will the oil get there fast enough if it's all in the pan to begin with?
One more question, if you don't mind. Is it worth the trouble to fill the torque converter so it isn't dry on first start, or will the oil get there fast enough if it's all in the pan to begin with?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Denton, TX
Those are add on sensor locations. If a person has the ability to read the sensor the computer sees, would this be better?
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
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From: SE Florida
I think that would be the best temperature reading.
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Tuned
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Is that even possible? The actual sensor is internal to the transmission.
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Tuned
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So I'm also replacing the plastic shield for the solenoid and MLPS plugs. I noticed two things:
1. There are wires dedicated to the transmission temperature sensor in the solenoid plug. Ever hear of someone tapping into these to use for input to a temperature gauge?
2. As I'm moving wires to the new MLPS plug housing I see that two of them are reversed: the Ground (Blk, pin 8) and the 4x4 shift module (R/W, pin 5). I've had no obvious transmission problems that could be related to this and the 4x4 seems to work ok. Is it possible the factory miswired these two pins? Or maybe they are both ground connectors?
1. There are wires dedicated to the transmission temperature sensor in the solenoid plug. Ever hear of someone tapping into these to use for input to a temperature gauge?
2. As I'm moving wires to the new MLPS plug housing I see that two of them are reversed: the Ground (Blk, pin 8) and the 4x4 shift module (R/W, pin 5). I've had no obvious transmission problems that could be related to this and the 4x4 seems to work ok. Is it possible the factory miswired these two pins? Or maybe they are both ground connectors?
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,730
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From: SE Florida
Yes. Then the PCM had an error code, the OD OFF light flashed, and the trans went into default operation. And the gauge didn't read correctly, either.
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Tuned
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I was afraid of that. Adding another component in-circuit would change the temperature/voltage measurement and the resulting computer response. I was hoping that some electronic genius might have an answer here. Hmmm. Ok. Dropping that idea.
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