48' Buick Roadmaster, now there's a car that can tear through anything we drive now days, and do it with a grin in its grill...LOL Heavy steel and Real American made.

 

 

That's nice, I bet it's a real head turner once it's cleaned and polished.

 

I found out what the heck the parts are that the P/O installed. I found this on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...50+cooling+fan

 

I believe its Fixed! 2 long, stop and go traffic filled test drives and the temp gauge needle stays at about halfway across the gauge and then goes back down.

I went to a couple salvage yards looking for an f-250 to get the fan blade and clutch but no luck.

I decided to try the electric fan and see what happens. I wired the fan and a toggle switch up to a 30 amp relay. (i removed that thermostat probe controller from the truck and chucked it)

After pressure testing told me I had a leaking bypass hose that i simply had to tighten a bit more, the pressure held strong and solid at 13psi for about 5 minutes.

The toggle switch looks kinda lame but if I ever want to go stock on the cooling fan and clutch then I can just put the trim back on and hide the big hole i had to drill.



Thank you everyone for the help with my overheating f-250 HD.

 

Good! Glad to hear. One cool thing about having it on a toggle, when its 2 degrees outside you can leave the fan off and use the heater to cool the engine as long as you don't leave it idle for an hour. And it will be 150 degrees in the cab. Used to do that on my old S-Blazer, fire it up and run to the gas station for a cup of coffee and chat. Fifteen minutes later you can be wearing shorts in the truck haha.

 

Hi mudsport! Wish i could do that but my heater core must be bad. The previous owner put some black caulking/tar kind of stuff on the hoses going into the firewall. I havent messed with them for fear of leaks but i may just bypass the heater core altogether soon. I cant get any heat on any setting i try at the dash. It just kinda blows very low heat if i use the "vent" setting with max heat.

 

That black caulking/ tar is probably stock. The heater core inlets actually protrude from holes in the firewall into the engine bay. The black sealant is to prevent leaks into the cab. Cut the old stuff away, and it should be fairly easy to remove the hose clamps, and hoses. Then the core can be removed from inside the cab.

 

My hoses look just like yours do. Im happy that it is probably stock then. Thanks Mrollings. This forum is badass.