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Ok, don't vote me out of the forum but I need some more help . Hadn't touched the truck since I first got her running after the doing the heads. I had a mess to clean up in the shop before I went back at it. It takes another 20 seconds of cranking to get her to start, it runs a little rough till I run her up for a couple seconds then it sounds great, nice and smooth. Shut her off and right away it I need to crank it for about 7 to 10 seconds to get her run again. Wait for a few minutes and it's up to 20 seconds before she'll start. I am getting a low ICP code so my oil pressure is falling off , but insanely fast. I still don't have a scanner , so I can't give you pressures, so what would make it fall off that fast. I do have a HP fuel leak to fix but It's not serious and only shows up at higher RPM, it is in the flexible hose by the manifold. I am still a big 7.3 fan right now , this thing is going to have a lot of work to do before it becomes my favorite toy in the shed. SO ONCE AGAIN HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nope, she's in pieces, no fender or box. Just looking at good old DT Ron, RIP Ron, I am thinking I got some dirt in the IPR valve when replacing the cooler. I was pretty careful but there was a fair bit of dirt in the valley and the screen was broken in the filter when I removed it. I will try the air leak test but with it loosing pressure so fast I think the dirt in the IPR is my most likely problem . It has run long enough to come up to full temps too.
If its taking a few to start but it does start,your only making small amounts of pressure for the ipr[not enough to clear itself out] get it road ready and go drive it,build some real pressure, maybe several hard miles, try to recrank at home. You realy need some monitor setup on a 6.0.
Pull the IPR and clean the screen then as wedge542 said get it road ready and drive it atleast 20-30 miles you need to get the air out of the system it's no different than the 7.3.
When you replace an injector or drain the rails you introduce air and it needs to come out don't condem it yet idling isn't going to get the air out it needs run.
Pulled the IPR valve last night and the screen was plugged and badly distorted but not broke through at all. Cleaned the valve and replaced the rings and screen and she fired up quite nice. I wish I had know to pull it and clean it when I had the motor apart, would have been sooooo easy and you don't need that special socket. A long flexible head 3/8 ratchet works perfect to get the valve out, it was batter than the long extension and swivel IMO. Thanks again.