My truck is a 2005 f350 6.0 with about 240,000 miles. Everything is stock. Oem oil filter, cap, and fuel filters.

I have a crank no start that started as an excessive crank hot, manifested to it stalling in the middle of a busy intersection, towed it home and now it's being VERY strange to me. It will start about once a day, as soon as it's warm and I try to put it in gear it dies. I know it's not transmission related because I can put it in drive or reverse just after starting it, and can move it around until it gets warm.

I have a Scanguage 2, but it cuts out fairly often, which may or may not be another symptom. Regardless, my IPR is 85% cranking (both when it starts and when it just cranks), but when it starts and runs, it stays at 85% until I give it gas and it drops down to as low as 35 as long as I'm on the gas, and actually starts to rise with the throttle, then I let off and it goes straight back to 85%, and after it warms up, it seems harder to get it off 85%. ICP drops to around 525 at warm idle, but it will run forever until I put it in gear, and it immediately dies and goes to a crank no start until the next day. After it dies when I put it in gear, the ICP pressure only builds to around 325-400 psi.

My question is, does this sound like a failing ipr or a failing hpop, SCT fitting, injector, or what? I got cylinder 2 low voltage codes for a week or 2 but they went away never to return before I replaced it. I know I have a wire issue at the ficm, but I don't think the 2 are related. Ficm voltage is always good, but if I touch the wiring just below the center harness, the engine skips and I can make it die if I push hard enough. I'm trying to tackle the oil pressure issue, then I can tackle the ficm wiring. Any help is greatly appreciated, and I plan on doing an air test as soon as my ICP fitting arrives. I thought maybe someone could point me in the right direction. The IPR is just a few months old, but it is covered in turbo ash from me not getting the turbo downpipe connected perfectly after replacing it. It is connected perfectly now. Again, thank you in advance for any help/thoughts, I've read this forum for years but have never posted. Sorry for the long post!

 

looks like you need to do an air pressure test of the HPOP system. You will most likely find leaking stand pipes, and or dummy plugs. There are several other places to leak also but on an '05 I would start with them. If the STC fitting came apart it would not run at all. You may have a bad HP pump but that is not real common on the 2nd generation pumps. If you search the 'net you will find many articles on how to do an air test and how to replace the stand pipes and dummy plugs, if they are leaking do both, on both sides, at the same time to avoid having to do it over in the near future. If you tear into it far enough to access the HPOP I would automatically replace the STC just to be safe. Good luck.

 

I too agree with jetjockey99. It runs barely with the IRP completely closed and your ICP shows just over 500 lbs, which tells us you have a "small" leak relative to a traditional no start condition.
Same advice, start with those o rings he recommends. Not too big of a job, once you get the ficm unplugged!

 

Thank you. I did manage to get to the driver side dummy plug and stand pipe, and they looked amazing to be honest. I need to air test asap. Can I get a fitting to go in the ICP hole anywhere other than waiting the 5 days for it to be shipped to me? This is my work truck and I really need it back on the road. I had hoped that the 85% ipr at idle, then it dropping as I gave it gas, along with the 300-400 psi ICP would point to something specific. I've watched a ton of DieselTechRon videos. I sure hope it's not the pump! Thanks again.

 

Why not just unplug the ICP and "fool" the system. It may run okay for short runs.
Probably not the hpop or stc as you wouldn't get it started at all.

 

The ICP is new as well, and it doesn't seem to make a difference. When I had the excessive crank hot issue, I could unplug it and it woud start. That doesn't work anymore. Once it has warmed up, it will not start again for at least 5 or 6 hours. It's crazy.

 

50 wt oil?

 

No I use 5w40 Rotella T6

 

Moved to the 6.0L forum.

 

I thought I had it in the 6.0 engine trouble section. I apologize.

 

No worries, you posted it in the Super Duty forum. Which isn't a bad place for it, but most of the 6.0L gurus spend their time down here.

 

I'd do them all... pipes, plugs and the STC, once and done!

 

WatsonR, that's what I was thinking. At least do those while I've got these valve covers off. Is there an easy way to tell if an injector is leaking off oil? I'm new to diesels all together. This is my first one, and boy did I pick a good one. Lol

 

The way to see if it's leaking from an injector.... check the oil pan level. When injectors leak... it will make oil.

Looking at a dummy plug won't tell you it's leaking at 3000psi, replace them. Standpipes are a possible issue, not so much as the dummies.

You can reseal injectors, about $8 a kit for each injector, $75 for the nipple cups and the tool to do it. I did this recently, full days work... stopped it from making oil! I did a thread on this topic, pictures, procedures and all. Just do a search of my name and you should find it.

Not expensive, good maintenance item to make injectors and the HPOP system more reliable.

That should fix the truck, pipes, plugs, STC, injector seals and nipple cups seals.... tight as a frogs butt! Unless it's the pump... not likely.

 

Awesome. Thanks a lot for your help. I'll definitely look up your post. Surely if I do all that, I can tackle the wiring to the ficm next. I just happened to bump it one day by accident when it was running and now I can literally keep a beat with the idle of the truck by tapping on that center FICM harness! Something has melted I'm sure. They're stiff as a board, I'll more than likely crack several more trying to seperate them. One issue at a time though. Thanks again!