Hi All,
Well, I replaced the oil cooler again. I replaced it in May of this year, but after a few months I saw the dreaded emulsion in the recovery tank. The dipstick didn't show any emulsion, only the Rtank. ECT/EOT deltas were in the 30's.
What a mess. I flushed like mad for a looooooong time.
Y'all will think I'm crazy, but I used mineral spirits to flush. I had used two full quarts of automatic dish detergent and one quart of peak coolant flush, but was still getting oil out of the system. I had sampled the water coming out of the flush and nothing would "cut" the oil. I tried super clean, auto dish detergent, anything I could get my hands on and nothing would clean it up out of the sample jar, except mineral spirits. The mineral spirits sort of mixed with the water, but it did clean out all the crap.
I got it as clean as I could before changing the oil cooler.
I yanked it all back down, put in a new Ford original oil cooler, replaced the STC fitting while I was at it. I had already put on a "bulletproof" EGR cooler, it looked fine when I tore it all down.
Note: putting the turbo back in isn't as easy as dieseltechron says (RIP).
After I put in the new cooler is when I did the mineral spirit thing. I use about 1/2 gallon in the system. You would not believe the crap that came out of the cooling system. It did take a long time to get all of the mineral spirits out using the dieseltechron method, but probably no longer that any other flush agent.
So, after I took it all apart again, the oil cooler cover had some electrolysis damage and especially the EGR connector cover on the oil cooler had the same. I was expecting too much from the o rings, I guess.
I put in a new oil cooler cover (150) and a new EGR cover connector (85), all new o rings and gaskets.
So, I also put on a brand spanking new Mishsimoto 200 deg. thermostat, put in brand spanking new Rotella ELC coolant, everything looked great upon assembly.
After I flushed the hell out of it, had super clean water coming out of it, I put in Rotella ELC coolant, 3.5 gallons, water about the same.
Took it for a test ride, it ran hot. 240 on the coolant, around 235 on oil. Check engine coolant warning came on.
So I coddled it back home (maybe 2 miles) and the recovery tank had two "micro" holes in it where the coolant was spraying out. New one is ordered, be here Friday.
I made sure the Mishimoto thermostat was installed correctly (it only goes in one way) so I can't figure out what went wrong.
When I was flushing, I had the thermostat out and running around the block I would get 168 degrees on both coolant and oil. WTF? What am I doing wrong.
This thing is clean as a baby's behind inside.

Edit:
I did notice that after replacing the STC fitting with the new version, not a quick disconnect at all, my idle oil pressure is 50 - 100 psi higher than the old STC fitting. I think that's a good thing.

 

I have read that you need to drop the new thermostat in boiling water to make it seat properly before you install it in the housing. That could be your problem idk

 

I didn't know that. It was acting like the thermostat wasn't opening at all. I'll do that tomorrow and see.
If that doesn't work I'll go to advance, get a stock 195 and see what happens. Mishimoto was 56, if it doesn't work it was a waste of money.
What a pita. You expect it to just work, and it doesn't.
I am at wit's end with this.

 

One other reason for repeat oil cooler is the upper radiator tank can
store a lot of the crud and later let it go back in to plug that new oil cooler.
Benny had problems with that. I think if I was doing for the first time I
would back flush the radiator or take it out and have it cleaned. That or buy a
replacement one. It it's a 2nd oil cooler then I would not think of this as an
option but a must do item. At the minimum use a hose adaptor and a 2nd
home from the top outlet to some buckets and force water from the bottom
to the top out into buckets or a kiddy pool then see what you find settling out
of the water. You could also if you have access to a bore scope take a look
in the top tank from the inlet on the driver's side.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

BUT I found Builletproofdiesel.com
They designed a kit to get rid of the oilcooler and replace with a external cooler and I have had no problem since pull my 29 ft Larado.
Go to Web site and watch their videos.

 

There are certain serial numbers that can only be used with the Mishimoto t stat. the last numbers have to end in 92 on the T Stat housing.If you don't have it and it ends in 91 you have to drill the center pin in the housing a 1/16th of a inch down to make it seat in the housing. Boil it in the housing to verify it is seated.