There is tons of info online about the Oil Coolant Delete, however I was not able to find anything rather current.

2005 F-250, bought it with 205,000 miles, brand new ARP headstuds, head gasket, heads magnafluxed, EGR delete [welded shut - the right way], new injectors, new oil cooler. That's right NEW OIL COOLER by Ford.

I bought from a very trust worthy guy, he showed me pictures of all the work done as well as the paper work.

Drove the truck exactly 5k miles, EOT started sky rocketing in the 230s while my coolant was at 190f. Brought it to my mechanic who is also the Sr. Diesel Mechanic at a local Ford dealership. He diagnosed, and verified that my oil cooler was clogged up. He replaced my oil cooler, flushed out the engine, trucks temps were perfect again. 210,000 miles.

I was thinking, it's hot, it's Florida, and I'm doing 70mph higher RPMs on the freeway, but with a coolant at 190f and my oil breaching 230 I don't know what else it could be.


215,000 miles BAM identical symptoms, oil temps getting higher, coolant staying low. I am confident my oil cooler is clogged up again. I know to properly flush this damn thing is to flush or purchase a new radiator, water pump, all coolant hoses and lines, etc, basically everything that touches the coolant. But I still risk my oil cooler failing in the future.


So, what is the latest and great oil cooler delete? What's the best way to do it, the best manufacture, but also at an affordable price. I want this to be the last time I have to mess with the damn oil cooler! Maybe an alternative option?


Thanks for all of your input, it's greatly appreciated.

 

No such critter.
You can move from a oil to coolant over to an oil to air. You just can't
get rid of it unless you only drive a 1/2 mile.

Lets address the problem and there are Ford dealers that still do it wrong.
When you do an oil cooler change and flush you have to do the flush FIRST
then drive for a few days so all the junk that is going to come loose ends
up in the old cooler and not the new one. After the few days and some heavy
foot action then you go back in and put the nice CLEAN new oil cooler in.
Stick a coolant filter on it and DONE.


Sean

 

Yes, I did drive with some sort of flushing solution prior to EGR replacement.

 

But was the oil cooler replaced before or after the flush and how much
time in between the replacement if the cooler was done after the flush?

Your only other problems could be failing water pump or plugged
up radiator. Get down with a flashlight and look up between the intercooler
and the radiator for any junk and also check the front of the A/C condenser.

But with coolant at 190º and the oil going up to 230º I have a feeling that
you may not be moving coolant at all through the system. With truck cold
remove the line running from the EGR cooler to the degas bottle and plug the
port on the degas bottle. Take cap off and have someone start truck while you
hold the line and watch the flow. How strong of a flow do you have? It's a 3/8" ID
line if you want to extend it to reach the top of the degas bottle so you can keep
things neat and clean or use a clean container to catch it in so you can dump it
back in. It won't "spray" out but look more like a beer tap running out at idle.
If you have help then you can give it a little throttle and it should come out
much faster. Also are you getting heat when you turn it on? How long does it
take to go from ambient temp to 190º when driving?

This will give you a few things to check on and post back what you find.

Also did you have all the work done at one time or in steps?
If in steps what order and how much time between?

Sean

 

When I first read the procedure to flush after the cooler was replaced I knew that was a bad idea. Back in 2010 I was helping Nylyon sort out his clogged new cooler after the flush and I posted my research of the problem on TDS and a couple of other forums. A copy of the work is over on my Facebook page.

I had done a god awful amount of chemical cleaning and flush, about 2-3 times what is normally done, changed the cooler and installed ELC. A few months later I had to replace the motor after a broken tip destroyed a cylinder. So with a new motor going in, the hoses, heater core and radiator just going through those flushes, an installed coolant filter, and giving the dealership gallons of the same ELC I had just used, I thought I was golden.

Over the next years I watched the the delta climb. So with a new complete motor changeout there was no chance that any debris were left in the block.

There have been two other people on different forums that have come to the same conclusion as I have. You may not be able to completely clean the radiator and heater core of the debris, and the leftover materials will eventually make it to the most efficient filter in the world, our oil coolers. So with the next oil cooler changeout, I will be at least changing the radiator. I wish I had done that when I did my original flushing. I consider the $250 for the radiator "insurance".

 

I appreciate you guys typing out good info for me. Will do as advised and let you guys know what I come up with.

 

I will not directly link to it but Nylyons procedure is still available on powerstroke dot org.
40 pages too big to upload as an attachment.

 

We have a link in our Tech folder here also:

http://home.comcast.net/~lyon.family...ush%20v1-0.pdf

Lots of good info and well written.

 

TooManyToys- Even a Brand New engine will still be chock full of casting sand.- A reman hot tanked block may even still have some.... so I guess I am not 100% onboard with your theory...