Bad Fuel Selector Valve
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
Bad Fuel Selector Valve
The PO of my F250 bypassed the Fuel Selector Valve and had the side mount tank connected directly to the fuel pump side. I switched the valve position in an attempt to see if the Fuel gauge would work. It didn't.
I went back a week later to start the truck and the battery was dead. I felt of the selector valve and it was warm. I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be.
So, I'm looking for a suitable replacement for a D5TZ-9189-B which is obsolete. Does anyone have a recommendation?
I went back a week later to start the truck and the battery was dead. I felt of the selector valve and it was warm. I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be.
So, I'm looking for a suitable replacement for a D5TZ-9189-B which is obsolete. Does anyone have a recommendation?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
One of these might work, they look like the same valve but one is half the price of the other.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
Well for $34 I can't hardly go wrong. Thanks! I hope they are 3/8" nipples and not 5/16ths.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
The unit at Bronco Graveyard appears to be the same unit I bought at O'Reillys. It works fine, but the electrical connector is different and the lines are 5/16 instead of 3/8
The factory plug fits a 1/4" spade, so I wired a spade to a loop for mine
The factory plug fits a 1/4" spade, so I wired a spade to a loop for mine
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
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From: Southern Maryland
After a little research I may not have a bad selector valve after all. It's a constant duty solenoid that will run warm when the aux tank is selected.
The PO did a real hack job on the wiring so I'll have to find whatever is draining the battery, but it probably isn't the selector valve. I'll take it off and trouble shoot in the garage. I lost the key so I just plugged in a new ignition switch and used a screw driver to attempt the start. Without the ignition switch connected it shouldn't have had power. There were however 2 wires directly attached to the battery, one I believe is for an electric choke.
Thanks for the info PapaBear, I had just found out the inlets were 5/16ths. I hope my original is still good.
The PO did a real hack job on the wiring so I'll have to find whatever is draining the battery, but it probably isn't the selector valve. I'll take it off and trouble shoot in the garage. I lost the key so I just plugged in a new ignition switch and used a screw driver to attempt the start. Without the ignition switch connected it shouldn't have had power. There were however 2 wires directly attached to the battery, one I believe is for an electric choke.
Thanks for the info PapaBear, I had just found out the inlets were 5/16ths. I hope my original is still good.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
Unless you're making a lot more horsepower than a mildly tweaked 460, the 5/16 will be ok. The line from fuel pump to carb is also 5/16
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1975/79 F100/350.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
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From: Southern Maryland
Well the good news is that there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the selector valve. The bad news is I was not able to remove it. The metal brackets just twist and I'm afraid I'll break them off or damage the valve. I sprayed some PB blaster on the nuts so I'll try again tomorrow.
I found a SMP FV-1 on ebay that I bid $20 on. If I get it great, but I won't lose any sleep if someone outbids me.
I was planning to xfer all the unique F250 gear over to my F150 including the dual tank selection, but I'll start another thread for that project later.
I found a SMP FV-1 on ebay that I bid $20 on. If I get it great, but I won't lose any sleep if someone outbids me.
I was planning to xfer all the unique F250 gear over to my F150 including the dual tank selection, but I'll start another thread for that project later.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Southern Maryland
emoji was in reference to Bill, but a constant duty solenoid has power the entire time it is active holding it in place. It gets warm pretty quick and stays warm. When I was testing yesterday I had the Fuel tank switch in the Aux position (solenoid powered on), and the ignition switch was in the ON position, so the warm solenoid was to be expected.
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