Starter Flywheel keep binding, Help!!
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Starter Flywheel keep binding, Help!!
I have replaced both, i have also replaced the bell housing. I have been working on tweaking the timing as well and i dont think thats it either. The starters i have been getting from autozone dont come with shims and the teeth are fully engaging the flywheel according to the wear pattern.
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Just get the number off the box and verify for yourself at their site that it is the correct one.
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My friend suspect timing. Its supposed to be electronically controlled timing but none of that stuff works so i just have to set it and forget it
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FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
See answer above
If it is a timing issue you should be able to remove spark, disconnect wire(s) to coil, and the motor should crank/turn over with out binding.
If it does crank/turn over with no spark then you know it is timing and not starter bind.
Dave ----
guess you could remove the coil wire from dist. cap and ground it when cranking so no spark gets to the plugs.
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From: Angier, NC
If doing the "starter button" I would pull the 2 small wires from the SOL "S" & "I" studs.
BTW the "I" is for IGN and most likely goes to the coil.
The "S" is for start and when power is put to it it will pull in the SOL.
Dave ----
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I think Franklin2 is on to something. The aftermarket starter did not include shims and we have yet to hear whether the sheetmetal plate still exists. When the "original" starter was replaced, were there any shims in it ? Gear depth to gear depth engagement is all well and good as long as it doesn't cause either gear to wrong either's axis rotation (too deep,tight, causing a bind). Stainless shims are readily available. I'm not sure what timing has to due with it other than a jumped gear tooth. When gear seats into gear, regardless if it's too deep, wear patterns mean very little, unless wear shows below the valley, between the teeth. When they don't seat, that's the time to worry about gear pattern wear.
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From: Angier, NC
If timing is too far advanced the motor will "kick back" and can be thought of binding.
It is easy to see if it is timing kick back by not having spark go to the plugs.
As for the shims I have not looked into this but I can only see it keeping the starter gear from going into far as they would have to go between starter & bell housing.
How could it change how far the teeth go into each other?
Dave ----
It is easy to see if it is timing kick back by not having spark go to the plugs.
As for the shims I have not looked into this but I can only see it keeping the starter gear from going into far as they would have to go between starter & bell housing.
How could it change how far the teeth go into each other?
Dave ----
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
If timing is too far advanced the motor will "kick back" and can be thought of binding.
It is easy to see if it is timing kick back by not having spark go to the plugs.
As for the shims I have not looked into this but I can only see it keeping the starter gear from going into far as they would have to go between starter & bell housing.
How could it change how far the teeth go into each other?
Dave ----
It is easy to see if it is timing kick back by not having spark go to the plugs.
As for the shims I have not looked into this but I can only see it keeping the starter gear from going into far as they would have to go between starter & bell housing.
How could it change how far the teeth go into each other?
Dave ----
Shims back the entire housing away, therefore backing the gear away.
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From: Angier, NC
It is the way the gears mesh on how deep the teeth go into each other when engaged. The GM shims/starters do just that how far the teeth go into each other.
See what I am saying? I know clear as mudd right?
Dave ----
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Yes that I know and what I meant by "too far" is not how far the starter gear pushes out into the ring gear.
It is the way the gears mesh on how deep the teeth go into each other when engaged. The GM shims/starters do just that how far the teeth go into each other.
See what I am saying? I know clear as mudd right?
Dave ----
It is the way the gears mesh on how deep the teeth go into each other when engaged. The GM shims/starters do just that how far the teeth go into each other.
See what I am saying? I know clear as mudd right?
Dave ----
The only "mesh depth" adjustment (-) or outwards, is achieved by shimming the housing. If there is another way, I'm all ears.