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I am not familiar with any shims ever being installed on any Ford starter motors; GM's starters are bolted on from underneath, Ford's go in from the front.
Define "binding" please. If the starter engages but barely turns the flywheel and then either drags or stops, that could very well be an electrical problem, not a mechanical issue.
Here's a very simple test you can run to make sure the battery is supplying enough juice under load, and that the starter circuit is capable of carrying the massive flow of electrons. Three simple meter hookups, detailed step-by-step near the end:
I am not familiar with any shims ever being installed on any Ford starter motors; GM's starters are bolted on from underneath, Ford's go in from the front.
Post 6: Dave asked if the engine rear cover (sheetmetal) plate was installed. The OP has failed to respond.
The only reason I could see for shims, is if the plate is missing.
Post 6: Dave asked if the engine rear cover (sheetmetal) plate was installed. The OP has failed to respond.
The only reason I could see for shims, is if the plate is missing.
I thought you said it also locates it?
IIRC the starter nose has a lip around it that fits the plate to hold it in place.
Now my 300/six did not have this plate but the starter sounded ok the few times I started it before I took the truck all apart. And yes I am still looking for this plate if anyone has one.
Dave ----
IIRC the starter nose has a lip around it that fits the plate to hold it in place.
Now my 300/six did not have this plate but the starter sounded ok the few times I started it before I took the truck all apart. And yes I am still looking for this plate if anyone has one.
Dave ----
Post 18 was the first time I've chimed into this thread. And I've never said anything about the rear engine cover plate locating the starter.
Not only has the OP failed to respond to the plate question, but has failed to mention what size the engine is.
Not sure what you are getting at, as the bendix gear in the starter can only be "meshed" with the flywheel as the starter housing will allow. It's a fixed gear, on a fixed shaft within the starter housing. The only "mesh depth" adjustment (-) or outwards, is achieved by shimming the housing. If there is another way, I'm all ears.
What he is saying is that on a GM, the peaks of the gear teeth on the starter can bind on the valleys of the teeth on the flywheel, and a shim on the GM adjusts this. There is no way to officially adjust this on a Ford starter, but I just installed a rebuilt starter on a vehicle and it had generic instructions in it. I sat down to do some reading out of curiosity and they actually showed shim for a Ford, they were installing it under one bolt. This made the starter "cockeyed" a little bit when it was bolted up, making the starter gear go in at a angle. Angle it up for tighter engagement, angle it down to loosen the engagement.
Sort of a rube goldberg way of doing it. I don't know if Ford ever had any problems at the factory, but I did hear why GM had to use shims once in awhile. The story I heard, they had some blocks that didn't get machined correctly in the main bearing area. So they ran them through again, machining a little off the bottom of the block and fixing the problem. Of course when they did this that put the mounting surface of the starter too far up and they had to use a shim.
Soon i will go ahead and do the Duraspark II conversion to address the timing issue but i still dont think that it. I have set the initial timing about a billion times and still have the same issue whether i advance it or not. My friends dad told me to find TDC and then mark it on the damper pulley instead of relying on the gauge. Actually thats another issue, the TDC marks align to the right side gauge instead of the left and everything i have read says the left gauge is the one to use.
There is no way in heck i could get it started using the left timing gauge
What is it actually doing? A timing problem usually only rears it's head during cranking when the engine is hot. You could get it off enough when cold I guess, but it will still turn over. It just turns and then slows, turns and then slows.
Im replying for my friend (olivedad51) he is at work and asked me to read up on this for him. The motor is a 300i6 4.9l and it still has the steel plate that goes on before the flywheel and holds the starter. It was kinda bent where it holds the starter but i tried to reshape it back to its original shape best i can and it looks pretty close now. The starter and flywheel are grinding while trying to start the engine, its almost like it starts to turn a crank or two and then it tries to lock up and then the sudden stop causes the teeth to slip or something. We have also had issues with the distributor shearing pins, not sure if the two problems are related. We did drop the oil pan clean out all debris and clean the oil pump pick up tube out. There was a bunch of wood looking stuff in there (peices of the timimg gear?) That we suspected was getting stuck in the oil pump causing the pins to shear, but im no mechanic. We will try to start it with no spark to the plugs and see if that makes a difference and let you know. Sorry for the lengthy post and i appreciate any advice you guys have to offer
What is it actually doing? A timing problem usually only rears it's head during cranking when the engine is hot. You could get it off enough when cold I guess, but it will still turn over. It just turns and then slows, turns and then slows.
The timimg doesn't adjust while its running, it stays where you set it.
It does seem to turn and then grind and turn and grind.
The starter and flywheel are grinding while trying to start the engine, its almost like it starts to turn a crank or two and then it tries to lock up and then the sudden stop causes the teeth to slip or something.
Could the problem be something like this thread? Somehow the crankshaft shifted forward too much and caused binding:
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