Do to my desire to keep my front suspension as stock I beams with a disk brake donor from a dent side, I am expecting to have clearance issues trying to run headers. I have both the radius arm sway bar and the front I beam sway bar and it is my understanding that the radius arm bar will hit the headers. My question is did Ford make high flow FE cast iron manifolds that are easily obtainable? When I refer to obtainable I am meaning I can't afford 427 side oiler or 428 SCJ parts.

 

Outside of these that can be had for $500ish and tend to interfere with the frame a bit, no, there aren't any other factory options.

 

Thanks for the pics but I do not recognize what these are off of. $500 us = a minimum $750 CDN so they are way out of my price range.

 

I installed Hooker long tubes, Super comp, hi comp can't remember which, on 66 with FE. Doesn't matter which I-beam set you are using, as both are same. I had 76 under my truck.

I believe those in rednecks photo are referred to a Shorties.



John

 

The cast shorties are great for that application where you want to restore a vehicle back to factory specs, but personally, I would not be interested. The 'cast ' has been known to crack.
The 'long tube cast', more so.

Long tube 'sreel' headers are great but there are problems you will need to address. When installing most long tube headers, you will most likely need to disconnect the front motor mounts and jack the motor up. PLUS, you will most likely need to remove the header to change the starter. You may ask how often will I need to change the starter - remember, long tube headers lay right up next to that starter.
Personally, I prefer Sanderson's shorty ss block headers. They collect and go straight down just behind the perches. You run your exhaust pipe from that point. You can better stay clear of the starter, and if you do it right, the starter can easily be removed.
NOTE: keep in mind the year/style heads you will be using. The exhaust ports can be high or low depending on the year/style. The ports on the headers must match. Sanderson will build what you need.
Great thing about Sanderson headers, they have 'flat face flanges'. No welding on the matching surface.
AND,,, you do not use gaskets. You only use a silicone type seal. I personally use Copper Coat silicone sealer.

 

Thanks to all of you for the input. I jumped the gun posting this thread without surfing the net. I have read up on the ss shorty headers and they should work. I was not needing a stock appearance but I am trying to clear the radius arm sway bar. I have read in post threads that long tube headers want to go straight through the sway bar and that is the style attached to my engine. I believe my heads to be c8ae which i am assuming to be 390 full size car. My motor is not present for me to look at anything else on it but the good news is I wont be installing it for a couple of years.

 

If I get a little time, I'll check for the web sight that shows different year of heads and their application and their intake and exhaust port size.
Note: Bill (ND) has pointed out some mistakes on this Web site on 'application ' (which I agree) but port size is pretty right on.

There are I believe, a couple members that have installed the Sanderson headers mentioned. If I remember correctly, there where pictures posted.

I'm pretty sure I have pictures of these same Sanderson headers installed on a FE motor that is setting on a engine stand.
I don't post pics to this web sight, but I would be very happy to send them to you. Just PM me your email address. OR, be inventive posting it here. :-)

 

here is the web link for heads I promised. If you want pics, I'll need your email. You can always post it through a PM




With this site, you can compare different style heads and intakes AND?
ID the pattern for your heads.


Heads

 

Thanks very much for the link and I will research it some more

 

rangermercman,
First, did you get the pics?
Do you know which C8AE heads you have?
-F
-H, 8 bolt
-H, 14 bolt
-J

 

I received the link to the FE head site in a previous post but no specific pics public or private. I haven't the slightest idea about the heads as I bought a garage full of problems and scattered pieces. The motor is together and has an aluminum Edelbrock 427 intake and is supposed to have been stroked with a 428 crank. The block was supposed to be a 352 but since they all say that who knows??? I yearn for speed parts and maybe it's a 427 side oiler block or maybe even a 428 scj. The truck and engine will not come home to me for another year