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I think it is essentially a nut welded to the back side of the door post. If you can't chase the threads, you could possible tack weld the striker in place. Otherwise I think you would have to cut one out of a donor and weld it in.
A heli-coil thread insert might work. Can pick up at any parts supplier.
That would probably be the best way to go. These are "caged nuts" and there's no way to get to them without cutting the panel out and once you do get to them, the nut (a square plate actually) is held in place by a metal cage that surrounds it and it spot welded to the back side of the door jam.
A helicoil actually came to mind this morning on my way to work. My only thought is how would keep that square not from spinning and actually accept the tooling and the helicoil? I am also stuck with another dilemma. Now the door will not open as the latch is stuck on the striker.
A helicoil actually came to mind this morning on my way to work. My only thought is how would keep that square not from spinning and actually accept the tooling and the helicoil? I am also stuck with another dilemma. Now the door will not open as the latch is stuck on the striker.
The caged nut "shouldn't" turn unless the cage welds have broken, allowing it to spin.
Question, is the nut actually stripped, or is it spinning inside the cage?
If it's stripped then a Heli-coil would fix it. If it's spinning inside the cage, that's an entirely different story.
Just my take, someone else may have a better idea. If the nut spins, I would take a die grinder and cut out the striker pin, make the cut square and large enough to clear the cage. Remove the piece, repair the cage and reinstall using the same methods as you would for butt-welding any repair panel.
As for the door being stuck. Have you tried opening the door from the inside latch?
Sorry for the delay, been getting ready for the hurricane (I'm in central Fla). The next step would be to see if the control rods are still connected to the door latch. You might try looking down the opening for the window and see if you can see the rods, the alternative is to remove the door panel which, because you can't open the door, will be a bit of a pain. If the rods are connected, see if you can see anything jamming the door latch mechanism.
The last thing, if nothing else works, get a small pry bar, pad the area really well with rags, pull on the door latch and gently try prying the door at the latch.I've seen the striker pin get jammed in the latch and just need a little extra "help" to open.
Good luck.
Got the door open. The head of the striker stud was just barely hanging up on the door. Took a nice little love tap from the inside and it popped open. Now I just gotta track down a 7/16 -14 helicoil kit and hope for the best
Got the door open. The head of the striker stud was just barely hanging up on the door. Took a nice little love tap from the inside and it popped open. Now I just gotta track down a 7/16 -14 helicoil kit and hope for the best
The Heli-coil is probably the best bet for repair, the only thing you have to watch is the "nut" in this application is relatively thin. After you run the Heli-coil tap through it, check how thick it is and trim the insert to length before you screw it in. You don't want any of the insert sticking out past the back of the nut. If it does, when you go to knock off the installation tang, instead of the tang breaking off, it'll just stretch the part of the insert that is sticking out like a spring and when you try to screw the striker pin back in, it'll cross thread.
The insert can be trimmed easily with a pair of sharp wire cutters.
I know that the striker can be moved a little bit for adjustment. That makes me think that the nut is caged but can still move side to side. Make sure the cage around the nut won't interfere with the helicoil process before you go buy one.
so I was able to locate a 7/16 - 14 helicoil kit however it does not indicated what size drill bit to use before using the 29/64 tap provided. anyone know the specific drill bit I should use before tapping?
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