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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

5.8\2wd oilpan replace

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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 05:37 PM
  #1  
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5.8\2wd oilpan replace

Hi all, Its been years since i logged in here. I have the rusted out oil pan on my 93 2wd truck that needs replaced. Can i just loosen the motor mounts and exhaust and raise the engine enough to drop the pan enough to loosen the oil pump and drop it in the pan? Anything else that i need to do? Would dorhmans pan be and ok pan? Thanks
 
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 08:29 PM
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I did this years ago on a Bronco with a 4.9. Not at all the combination you are working with, but I was able to change the pan with the engine in frame. Used a lot of my best curse words!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 10:45 PM
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Yes you can. It's not the easiest but I done it a couple of times. What I do is first turn the engine to tdc. Then mark the plug wires remove distributor cap. Mark the rotors location in relationship to distributor side shield. Mark the distributor base to the bloc I use a small chisel. Pull the distributor. Remove motor mount bolts Lift the engine as high as possible. Remove pan bolts. Drop pan down. The disconnect oil pickup tube from the pump and main bearing cab. Remove oil pump to block bolts. Leave pump and tube and drive shaft in the pan. Then remove the pan out the back. Pump and tube will have to be in pan when pan is put back. The reason for removing the distributor is putting the drive shaft and pump back in and trying to hit the hex hole in the distributor is really tough. I glue the pan gasket to the block insuring I can start each bolt. You can use RTV and I do on the corners where the pan wraps around the main bearing caps, timing cover. After that is all bolted up set motor back down and secure motor mount bolts. Add oil and a filter. I usual spin the pump to prime everything. Reinstall distributor using your marks. You might have to move the drive shaft to get things to go togather. Done. Better part of a day.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 10:54 PM
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You are breaking out the engine hoist anyway and will have the motor 75% disconnected, I think I'd go all the way and yank the damn thing out of the engine bay so I could do the job in relative comfort.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 06:04 AM
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So i would not have to remove the upper manifold to raise the engine hight enough to remove the pan?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
You are breaking out the engine hoist anyway and will have the motor 75% disconnected, I think I'd go all the way and yank the damn thing out of the engine bay so I could do the job in relative comfort.
Last oil pan I did on an F-150 didn't have the engine 75% disconnected. We just loosened the motor mounts, took the fan off, then jacked the engine up.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
Last oil pan I did on an F-150 didn't have the engine 75% disconnected. We just loosened the motor mounts, took the fan off, then jacked the engine up.

Obviously your tolerance for doing jobs that require you contort your body into cramped, dirty spaces is much higher than me.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 08:38 PM
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I tried to avoid pulling the engine once by wrenching in that tiny space between the crossmember and block. Even with a carb intake on the engine it just wasn't worth it.
 
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