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I'm seeing a couple of cranks on Craigslist being sold as 390s. I went 15 pages into this forum and did a search, but "What are the visual differences between 360 and 390 crank?" is a lot of verbage for a search function. Mostly what I get is the stroke difference, but I'm not sure how to measure the stroke w the crank separated from the block. Google turns up some stuff, a lot of it from FTE, but it's all "measure the stroke".
Anything relatively obvious for me to look for? Casting #s? I remember something about the counterweights being different...tapered vs square. Pics would help for the cognition-impaired (that's me).
While we're at it, got any tips on buying a used crank? Minimum journal diameter? Maybe this info could make it into the FAQ stickie...?
I found a 2U crank locally for 50 bucks. The seller told me it's been cross-drilled so I asked for some pictures (it's not that local) and here's what he sent...
Does that look to be done properly? He doesn't know how far undersized it is, if any. Should I hope for the best but presume I'm picking up a core, or just leave it alone?
It's not a cross drilled crank, all cranks are angle drilled like that for the oil to get from the main bearing journal to the rod bearings.
Only cross drilled FE cranks where 427 steel cranks that have the same stroke as 390's, these cranks will have oil holes 180 apart on the same rod journal and will have plugs in the sides of the journals, ether allen head type or freeze plug type with snap ring locks.
Cross drilling increases the amount of oil to the rod bearings but is a costly process that's usually reserved for high performance racing engines.
Okay...so that's OEM? Even better because...I just bought it.
I'll have to get it checked out, but dude seemed to know what he's talking about: has it stored properly and all. I hope it checks out straight and true, 50 bones is a bargain.
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