Prior to First Start-Up
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Freshman User
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Prior to First Start-Up
I am ending the process of restoring my 1992 F150 5.0 and I need some desperate advice. The engine has been out and I basically did a re-seal of the whole engine, the main reason I pulled the engine was to change out the rusted out oil pan. Needless to say, being a newbie at engine rebuilds, I forgot to prime the oil pump. Now the engine is back in and ready to be fired up in a couple days. I am honestly deathly afraid of pulling the distributor as I have not even pulled it to this day, and don't really want to have to to spin the oil pump driveshaft. I have heard so many horror stories of people dropping the oil pump driveshafts into the oil pan. Is there any other easy way I can fix my screw up? Could I just disconnect the coil wire and whatever relay or fuse needed so that it doesn't fire and doesn't keep pumping fuel? Please I am in need of desperate assistance. Any help or opinions is much appreciated. Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Lincoln, NE
There are Prelube Engine Oiler Tanks that you fill with engine oil and use an air compressor to pressurize the tank. A hose on this tank connects to your engine at a port like the oil pressure gauge port. Applying this pressurized oil to the engine oiling system will simulate what the oil pump does. If you look up how to prelube a coyote 5.0, that should work for your motor.
Pre lubing (priming) 5.0 Coyote - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
Pre lubing (priming) 5.0 Coyote - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,227
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From: Washington
The proper way is to pull the distributor and prime the oil pump with an electric drill. You can probably get the tool at any auto parts store.
The not so proper way is to disconnect the coil, and remove the fuel pump fuse or relay; then crank the engine over for about 30 seconds. I'd also pull the spark plugs and give each cylinder a squirt or two of clean engine oil.
You said you just did a re-seal right? You didn't touch the rotating assembly, or disassemble the cylinder heads? If so, there is still a thin film of oil on everything. Starting it now would be no different that if you had let it sit for the same amount of time that the engine has been out.
The not so proper way is to disconnect the coil, and remove the fuel pump fuse or relay; then crank the engine over for about 30 seconds. I'd also pull the spark plugs and give each cylinder a squirt or two of clean engine oil.
You said you just did a re-seal right? You didn't touch the rotating assembly, or disassemble the cylinder heads? If so, there is still a thin film of oil on everything. Starting it now would be no different that if you had let it sit for the same amount of time that the engine has been out.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
There should be a clip on the oilpump driveshaft that prevents it from pulling out of the oilpump when the distributor is removed, if you didn't touch the bottom end then that should still be there.
But before removing the distributor remove #1 spark plug and rotate the crank until you get #1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke, you will know when it's getting close by the air being pushed out the plug hole. Put a piece of rigid wire through the plug hole to feel when the piston reaches TDC and verify that the timing mark on the crank balancer is at 0.
Now you can pull the distributor and know that you can put it back correctly, note the position of the housing and the rotor button, it should be under post #1 on the cap.
Then assemble a socket and extension and tape them together with electrical tape so you don't lose the socket in the motor, and put this in a 1/2" electric drill(a 3/8 drill may not have enough power), set the drill to reverse(oil pump and distributor turn counter clockwise) and run the drill until you get plenty of oil on top of both heads.
But before removing the distributor remove #1 spark plug and rotate the crank until you get #1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke, you will know when it's getting close by the air being pushed out the plug hole. Put a piece of rigid wire through the plug hole to feel when the piston reaches TDC and verify that the timing mark on the crank balancer is at 0.
Now you can pull the distributor and know that you can put it back correctly, note the position of the housing and the rotor button, it should be under post #1 on the cap.
Then assemble a socket and extension and tape them together with electrical tape so you don't lose the socket in the motor, and put this in a 1/2" electric drill(a 3/8 drill may not have enough power), set the drill to reverse(oil pump and distributor turn counter clockwise) and run the drill until you get plenty of oil on top of both heads.
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I have been doing some research into the Pre-Lube oiler tank idea as Bruners4 has mentioned. I think it is a great concept, has anyone has good luck with it? And yes mrollings53 it was just a re-seal, although the heads were off for new head gaskets so they got cleaned a bit. Everything was coated very good in assembly lube before I put the valve covers and oil pan back on. I honestly think I am going to do the oiler tank idea through the oil pressure sender and see if that works first, if not then pull the distributor and spin the oil pump driveshaft. If anyone thinks that this is a bad idea please let me know. Thanks everyone for all your help as usual.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,507
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From: Oregon
Call me wreck less here, but if everything is coated well with assembly lube and it's not all new internals, I would just disable fuel and spark and crank it over a few times to build oil pressure. That's how I have done the reveals I have done and never had a problem.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 501
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From: Lincoln, NE
I jump the starter solenoid to crank the engine over without the key turned on after doing an oil change. After the filter is full of oil and the pressure builds up, you can hear a difference in the cranking of the engine. Easy to do with a remote starter button.
New motors always get prelubed on the engine stand before the distributer is installed.
New motors always get prelubed on the engine stand before the distributer is installed.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Mississippi
This will be a whole lot harder than it sounds. The only place you can connect it, is the oil pressure sender port. Not the easiest place to get to.
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Freshman User
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It is right out in the open at the moment since I have the PS/AC bracket off as of right now but I can understand that it will be a bit hard to get to once I put it on. My plan is to pump is much oil through there and make sure it is coming out the pushrods and then after that turn it over with the fuel pump relay disconnected along with the coil wire. Hoping that my idea works well...
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Penn Valley
I just spin the engine over until something registers on the pressure gauge or oil shoots out if gauge is not installed. Then it is off to the races.
No offense to anyone here but hobbyists can tend to make things a lot more complicated then they need to be. With all respect I say this.
No offense to anyone here but hobbyists can tend to make things a lot more complicated then they need to be. With all respect I say this.
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