I have a 1997 F350 460 (7.5L) and I want to remove the air pump that pumps air to the catalytic converter and I plan to remove the converter also and straight pipe it. So my question is how big of job is it to remove the pump and will that mess up anything else by taking that off? Also if I straight pipe the truck are the stock headers enough or do I need aftermarket ones? Thanks!

 

I don't know if the 460 is the same but I just did this on my 302, I left the pump on and took everything else off. I took all of the stock exhaust off, took off the cross over tubes that runs between the heads and plugged those holes with bolts, there was 2 diverter valves attached to the tube that ran between the heads and I plugged the vacuum lines that ran to the valves and then took the hose out that ran from the pump to the tube that crosses between the heads.

Anyways I'm not sure how the 460 system is set up, hope that helps a little bit.

 

Here is everything that I removed. And I also went with long tubes.

 

Before you rip that stuff off, make sure doing this isn't against local/state/federal laws. If you have to smog the vehicle and these parts are missing you will instantly fail, and in doing so, cannot register the truck to keep it street legal.

That being said, on a 1997 truck, I wouldn't recommend deleting any of this. The computer is programmed to receive inputs and give commands for the solenoids that govern air distribution to the exhaust components. The whole point of the air injection system (smog pump and plumbing) is to add oxygen to the catalytic converter to decrease light off time and make the truck run more efficiently.

With them not present on the truck I can almost guarantee you won't see any huge power increase, you will almost certainly trip the MIL and get multiple codes in the computer, all with increased emissions and barely any gain or benefit.

If all you want is more power, there are better ways of doing this while keeping the stock emissions on the truck. You can still redo the exhaust system with headers and larger diameter pipe, add some (slightly) larger injectors, install a cold air intake, upgrade the secondary ignition (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil) and so on. Unless the truck is going to be used off road only, leave the catalytic converter on. It's not worth the trouble of taking all these parts off.

 

Took my air pump and all the crap that goes with it off. No codes. Runs jus fine. May even be a lil quieter...my air pump was shot and noisy. It seems every time one of these questions come up someones got to mention the "legal" mumbo jumbo. Come on guys we're all mostly grown men here and know what the laws are in the state we live in. Don't need a lecture. Hell if you drive 71 in a 70 mph zone , you are breaking the law. Please stop the lectures. WE KNOW......... (jumps off of soap box).... they may have changed a few things in the 1997 air pump area, since other things changed after 96 though.

 

I appreciate all the help guys, 2.5itim the pictures I appreciate! So you left the pump on and it still runs but doesn't pump into anything? I know that the cops would have a fit if they seen no catalytic converter, but I only drive this truck once in awhile or when I need to pull something, but I know there won't be any power increase, by taking the pump off my main goal was to clean up under the hood, there are lines everywhere going to and from it. Is there a way to clear the codes so the check engine light doesn't come on because the pump isn't there? Jim40216 was it that big of a job to take it off the 460?

 

I'm not trying to lecture here, I was simply including information OP may or may not already know. I work in auto parts at the moment and believe me, half the kids that walk into my store looking for "performance" upgrades don't know **** about what they drive or how they have to be CARB compliant with their upgrades (I live in California). I get that there are people out there that don't care about being emissions compliant, which is fine. Inwardly, I wish I could straight pipe my truck but NOPE ... thanks to California.

 

No , wasnt a big job at all. One evening max and I took my time. Get the shorter belt ahead of time.

 

That is exactly what I did, left the pump on but there is nothing connected to it.
I have just now gotten the headers put on and am taking it to the exhaust shop when I get off work so I will drive it for a while and let you know how it's doing. So far it's only been idling in my driveway but I can't see the pump still being there would cause any issue.

 

Yeah let me know how you get along with it. Been so busy lately, I probably won't get around to doing anything with mine for awhile but when I get the time I don't want to be shooting in the dark. I would probably start by unhooking everything and if all goes good later on pull it off completley. Were the headers to bad to change? I've heard of the stock ones cracking so that's is my one fear there and why I have considered replacing them. Thanks!

 

I deleted all that crap on my truck. The biggest thing will be the CEL turning on with the removal of the egr and cats. You can tune the rear o2 sensors and egr out, or use other various methods to trick the computer into thinking they're still there.

I dont have straight pipes tho. I had shorty headers, but they rusted to hell in less than 2 years, so now I got new stock manifolds running into true duals with flowmaster 40s. Sounds amazing, and is fairly loud even at idle.

 

I did the same to my 97 250. Gale Banks stainless exhaust and muffler built my own bypass pipe. I built a spacer out of 1/4" aluminum to block off the EGR. The position sensor can still move up and down, the 'puter is happy and you're not running anything into the intake system. I have a 5 spd with 4:10 gears and get 16+ running empty @ 65 all day long. I farm and use this to pull a goose, and pulling 16,000 I still get in the 11-12 range. The Banks exhaust is the deal breaker. Don't go cheap shorty, tin headers Pop for the entire tuned system. The muffler is certainly louder than stock but has that ol mellow V-8 tune we all like. If you're running an autoer matic all deals are off. Converter slippage will eat up any mileage gains, and of course pulling a real load is pathetic. My thoughts. I've been running 460s for over 20 years and they will all do close to 500,000 miles with synthetic oil and a couple of timing chains over the years. Body rot determines throw away time. My 97 is at 470,000, uses no oil except for a bit around the rear seal. Use'em right and they're sweet. My 97 is a speed density but I have yet to think I'd gain much by mass airing...............