Tire wiggles
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
I bought Moog brand greasable tie rod end links from rockauto. Looks like I paid about $140 for both shipped. I say looks like cause they were in an order with about $1000 worth of other parts like sway bar links steering damper ball joints etc. did it all at once at 250,000 miles.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
From the people who build your front end.
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcS...ILE&dID=271260
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcS...ILE&dID=271260
A hearty thanks to Glowplugger for bringing this topic up
Here's a tip to remove the tierod end from its socket.
Loosen the lower nut and back it off until it is flush with the end of the bolt. Hold a piece of stiff metal flat against the end and whack the metal sharply with a hammer. The nut will keep it from flying out, smacking the ground, spilling your beer...
Mine popped right out. This was on my Excursion 4wd front drivers side a few weeks back.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Okay, dumb question. With the vehicle in park, I can grab the front tie rod and rotate it with my hands without much resistance. It isn't floppy, but moves quite easily.
Is that okay?
I also plan to check as the link indicated, but didn't know how easy or hard it should be to move that around?
I'm looking for vibration in the drive line at about 60-65mph and recently replaced ball joints, outer axle and the associated seals on the driver's front, soon to do the passenger side, but will do other worn parts as needed.
I think one of the sway bar links has too much play, I can smack the bottom with my hand on one side and it moves while the other side does not. It is parked on about a 20-30% front slope with the truck square on the slope.
I can start a thread, but maybe this info can help the OP as well, since he is planning to get into that area and look for and fix his worn out parts, too?
Is that okay?
I also plan to check as the link indicated, but didn't know how easy or hard it should be to move that around?
I'm looking for vibration in the drive line at about 60-65mph and recently replaced ball joints, outer axle and the associated seals on the driver's front, soon to do the passenger side, but will do other worn parts as needed.
I think one of the sway bar links has too much play, I can smack the bottom with my hand on one side and it moves while the other side does not. It is parked on about a 20-30% front slope with the truck square on the slope.
I can start a thread, but maybe this info can help the OP as well, since he is planning to get into that area and look for and fix his worn out parts, too?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Correct, you will be able to rotate the tie rod fore and aft a few degrees with a firm grasp.
A TRE or Thread Rod End , aka Tie Rod is at its most basic,just a ball and socket so it is going to have the ability to rotate in many directions but still have little to no play radial or axial. This is why they are ideal for steering applications.
A picture tells the story.
When the socket wears it gets bigger and the ball fits loosely = time to replace
A TRE or Thread Rod End , aka Tie Rod is at its most basic,just a ball and socket so it is going to have the ability to rotate in many directions but still have little to no play radial or axial. This is why they are ideal for steering applications.
A picture tells the story.
When the socket wears it gets bigger and the ball fits loosely = time to replace
More Turbo
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 717
Likes: 9
They should move in their "socket" easily and smoothly. But, should not move in/outward of their socket. If they're to difficult to move, it could be caused by inadequate lubrication or excessive torque.
When they move laterally, clunk, move inward/outward, or are very loose, the Bushings have worn and replacement is necessary.
Inspections of the from suspension should be done with the front tires off the ground (non-weighted). "In general" Ball Joints are identified by moving the tire at 6 & 12 O'clock. There should be NO movement. Stabilization/Steering Parts are best identified by moving the wheel at 3 & 9 O'clock. But, don't forget, ill installed Brake Parts / 4x4 Parts can cause similar symptoms such as "clunks".
Bearings and seals can be identified by "Spinning the Tire" Slowly spinning the tire often allows noises to be heard that can't be heard at faster turns.
Fluid Filled Axles may seep fluid which is an indication of a wheel/axle seal. But, can also indicate a much more serious problem such as a bearing or a non-true linear shaft.
If there is any doubt. Its best to let a professional evaluate.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Yes.
They should move in their "socket" easily and smoothly. But, should not move in/outward of their socket. If they're to difficult to move, it could be caused by inadequate lubrication or excessive torque.
When they move laterally, clunk, move inward/outward, or are very loose, the Bushings have worn and replacement is necessary.
Inspections of the from suspension should be done with the front tires off the ground (non-weighted). "In general" Ball Joints are identified by moving the tire at 6 & 12 O'clock. There should be NO movement. Stabilization/Steering Parts are best identified by moving the wheel at 3 & 9 O'clock. But, don't forget, ill installed Brake Parts / 4x4 Parts can cause similar symptoms such as "clunks".
Bearings and seals can be identified by "Spinning the Tire" Slowly spinning the tire often allows noises to be heard that can't be heard at faster turns.
Fluid Filled Axles may seep fluid which is an indication of a wheel/axle seal. But, can also indicate a much more serious problem such as a bearing or a non-true linear shaft.
If there is any doubt. Its best to let a professional evaluate.
They should move in their "socket" easily and smoothly. But, should not move in/outward of their socket. If they're to difficult to move, it could be caused by inadequate lubrication or excessive torque.
When they move laterally, clunk, move inward/outward, or are very loose, the Bushings have worn and replacement is necessary.
Inspections of the from suspension should be done with the front tires off the ground (non-weighted). "In general" Ball Joints are identified by moving the tire at 6 & 12 O'clock. There should be NO movement. Stabilization/Steering Parts are best identified by moving the wheel at 3 & 9 O'clock. But, don't forget, ill installed Brake Parts / 4x4 Parts can cause similar symptoms such as "clunks".
Bearings and seals can be identified by "Spinning the Tire" Slowly spinning the tire often allows noises to be heard that can't be heard at faster turns.
Fluid Filled Axles may seep fluid which is an indication of a wheel/axle seal. But, can also indicate a much more serious problem such as a bearing or a non-true linear shaft.
If there is any doubt. Its best to let a professional evaluate.
I plan to have it all aligned and checked at the shop after I'm done, but want to replace whatever I need BEFORE taking it there. I like doing my own work...and the price
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,502
Likes: 2
From: Bend Oregon
Hey Glowplugged,
Being as an I am know who the primary operator of big red is I thought you might like to consider this option. http://www.thetireclub.com/item.wws?...28&safe=active
The link above is directly to the rebuild kit this link is the page back that shows the components in the kit.
http://www.thetireclub.com/content.w...RUCK_KITS.HTML
Complete front end rebuild kit for $299 from XRF. Good proven components.
Edit: the links posted above were for a F150, if you look around the site they may have a kit for the superduty.
Being as an I am know who the primary operator of big red is I thought you might like to consider this option. http://www.thetireclub.com/item.wws?...28&safe=active
The link above is directly to the rebuild kit this link is the page back that shows the components in the kit.
http://www.thetireclub.com/content.w...RUCK_KITS.HTML
Complete front end rebuild kit for $299 from XRF. Good proven components.
Edit: the links posted above were for a F150, if you look around the site they may have a kit for the superduty.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Glowplugger- Are you going to replace BOTH? I guess they should be replaced in pairs.
I am thinking about using a paint pen to mark the end of the tie rod where it meets the adjustment sleeve, then copying it to the new one(s), OR measuring from the end of the tie rod to the edge of the adjustment sleeve, as it looks like the different vendors' tie rod ends might be a little bit different
What's your plan to keep your alignment?
I am thinking about using a paint pen to mark the end of the tie rod where it meets the adjustment sleeve, then copying it to the new one(s), OR measuring from the end of the tie rod to the edge of the adjustment sleeve, as it looks like the different vendors' tie rod ends might be a little bit different
What's your plan to keep your alignment?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
Maybe take the old one off in one piece and assemble the new one off the truck and then put it on as one piece?
Sorry if I'm hijacking this thread
