This may sound ridiculous but when I had my big truck I was told to just count the turns out and turn the new one in that far. That is what I did. Utilizing a number of measuring methods in concert might be a good idea, or it could really screw with your head when none of them match each other.

 

I've heard of people doing it that way.
It'll get you close.

 

My first hack method is to do the job with wheels on the ground and only one steering component removed at a time. Unscrew old tie rod (or whatever) without disturbing the tube clamp or moving the tires. Install new tie rod and run it in and out until it fits into the steering knuckle same way as the old one. As long as nothing is moved you'll be real close.

My second hack method is for when the wheels are off the ground or it's been messed with and orientation is lost. Place the new and old tie rod side by side. Line up the centers of the ball joint. Observe where the threads on the old one goes from dirty to clean, and chalk the new one at that spot. Thread it on that deep.

I don't trust counting turns due to production tolerances. Last tie rod on my truck the threaded portion of the new one (Moog) was a good 1/8 inch longer than the old one. But if the parts look identical I'm sure it would work.

But it's only going to affect toe in anyway, if it's dramatically wrong you'll know it quick. And there's ways to measure toe short of taking it to a shop for alignment.

 

I was told to do mine by counting the threads. Well apparently the new parts had a different number of threads is all I can figure because I knew it was wrong before I left the driveway. So, I would leave the wheels on the ground and take the whole thing off. Measure it end to end and build the new one to that length. It should drop back in the holes on the truck if you didn't move it. I ended up just taking mine for new tires cause I needed them anyway and paid for a lifetime alignment. Which due to other failures since that time has paid for itself.

 

This sounds like the plan I'll use. It will be harder to get access to the tie rod ends with the tires on, but using a plate and hammer worked to get the one off already, shouldn't be too hard to roll under and do it again...with goggles to deter all the junk that falls off when you hit an old truck with a hammer Thanks everyone

Glowplugger- when are you planning to do your replacements? One of us can try it first and take some pics

 

It is only logical to question this method and at the time I did. My mechanics and parts guys assured me I'd be OK and I was. However, that was a day and age where we were all using (I believe it was) Timken parts...

 

I just did this, well sorta. Here's my 1 post writeup

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16638258



Thanks for the help guys.

 

Hey guys! I just got finished with this and measuring the turns, or measuring the distance is NOT GOOD ENOUGH. I ended up pigeon toed. And just for fun, I took it to get it aligned after replacing that wiggly tie rod end and the guy said "You got over an inch of play in the ball joints too". I didn't notice that, but I'll be darned, it was true. I just didn't yank around on it hard enough.

So I'm replacing my ball joints next, and then I'll jack up the front end in the driveway and try aligning it as best I can (new tires so I'm extra worried) then I'll drive it the 10 miles to the alignment shop to get it finished off.

I'm leaving this thread now to continue on in my build thread. If you wanna see how it ended up. Or you don't even know what a ball joint is and want to change yours with step-by-step pictures. It's all there. Link is in my signature.


Wish me luck!

 

Sorry to hear. I think I mentioned having to get an alignment following replacing my tie rod. I did the ball joints at the same time. Get/rent a master ball joint tool kit and hopefully you own an impact wrench. They are fairly easy just takes some time. I would recommend replacing your outer axle seals while you have it apart because you have to pull the front hubs and axle out anyway.

 

Oh crap, I was thinking I could just yank the old one out and put the new one in like a tie rod!


So there's a tool kit I'll need, then I need to remove the front hubs and the axle?

 

Yes. You remove the tire, brake caliper, and rotor. There are 4 bolts on the inside of the hub (engine side) that you remove to slide the hub and inner axle out of the truck. This leaves you with a bare steering knuckle on the axle. Remove the castle nuts and use a ball joint spliter to remove the steering knuckle. The upper and lower ball joints are press fit into the steering knuckle. It is easiest to use a ball joint tool kit (looks like a modified C clamp for visualization) and an impact wrench to press the old joints out and the new ones in. Assemble in reverse order.

 

Best I could do for a picture from my desk at work

 

Awesome! That ought to get me. Thanks for the pic. That's perfect!

 

And do both sides.

 

Naturally!


So I got the wheel off, and I got the brake caliper off, and I got the mount for the brakes off (which only has two bolts...and the top one on mine was MISSING. )


However, the brake rotor doesn't seem to just pull off. Is it just stuck on there with years of grime and cow poop or am I missing something?