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I love following build threads, and I think you're doing a great job on your restore!
Thanks Tonyguns
Got a little more done. Leaf springs, shackles are cleaned up, painted, and installed on the truck to cure for a few more days. Everything is still a little loose and no grease in the shackles pins yet.
Cold and rain have slowed me down. I feel for all for the northern folks with this crazy weather, hope everyone has done well through this winter storm.
Got started cleaning up the I beam, was surprised that there was something shiny on this old girl still. Spiders seemed to favor this spot though.
Front drums came off pretty easy as well as the break backing plate. King pins seem really tight, wanted to push them out for ease of cleaning them up and por15 prep and painting, but they said nope. Air hammer moved them about a 1/16th of an inch.
Going to have to get some bigger sockets. My biggest is 1-1/4 and still too small for the nut that holds the arm for the tie rod ends to the spindle.
If you want to remove the king pins, here is the thread I used to get mine out. One fought me every inch of the way https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...made-easy.html
But, if you pull the king pin, you need to replace them. They are most likely pushing 70 years old. Unless you have a hone, you would need to take the new parts to a machine shop to have the bushings reamed to fit the king pins.
i took some time to try and get all the old hard grease out of the kingpins grease fitting hole with some degreaser and light oil. After getting just oil through and everything turning smooth, I still have no play in the kingpins.
Now I know I changed the steering gearbox and may have changed the kingpins at that time as well. That was over 20 years ago so I can’t quite remember. At any rate I decided to leave them be and keep going. I do need some parts and will see if Napa may be able to help.
Painted with por15 and new grease fittings installed. Multipurpose grease on spindles for now till it all goes back together.
Some things are better off left undisturbed if they seem to be good. Install new grease fittings and purge the kingpins while unloaded. Don't worry about that steering arm unless the tie rod hole is wallered out.
Get that truck on the road, we'll meet about Chiefland, and I'll buy your breakfast.
Some things are better off left undisturbed if they seem to be good. Install new grease fittings and purge the kingpins while unloaded. Don't worry about that steering arm unless the tie rod hole is wallered out.
Get that truck on the road, we'll meet about Chiefland, and I'll buy your breakfast.
Might be a bit before I’m there Ray, but when I am I’ll give you a shout.
Steering arm arm has a little wear but not too bad, have it apart and cleaning up as well. Need some u bolts for the springs though, mine have seen better days and that should be an easy find.
Here is the arm before cleanup. The drag link rubber covers didn’t make it though, Dennis Carpenter has a repair kit, may just get that and replace all the guts.
Tie rod and ends may need replaced as well, but that’s easy to do anytime.
Need to replace the spring u-bolts I happen to be in tractor supply and found these for 12 bucks. Main difference is these are course thread versus the fine thread from the original. These are for a trailer so anyone know why these would not work?
Well, to me they look like they are smaller thickness. How do they compare to the originals?
Here are pictures of my old and replacement ubolts. The shorter one was the MidFifty replacement I bought but it was too short.
It's good to replace them. This happened to mine. Fortunately I was parked and I was tightening them after driving for a while.
Well, to me they look like they are smaller thickness. How do they compare to the originals?
.
Joe you are correct they are about a tenth of an inch difference in the thickness of the metal. Other than that basically the same size, think they would work in a pinch, but going to try NAPA or OReilly’s see if they have something closer to originals. If not will order from one of the usuall folks, thanks for the heads up on the short ones from mid fifty, probably order from Dennis Carpenter.
Thanks again Joe, these will work temporally until I can get better ones. Trucks not going anywhere anytime soon.
Got a new toy for my birthday, takes some time but not as much as a wire wheel and gets everything including the nooks and crannies. Should make salvaging small parts much easier, so far it works like a champ even with my compressor. It's on the low end of the the CFM range for the unit, but does a good job and pretty fast. Quick wash down, de-grease and knock off the big stuff with a putty knife.
I just blasted the wheel cylinders to practice settings, drilled holes in one of the plungers to try and drive the other side out with a punch, still won't budge. Not being able to get them apart at all to see if they can be rebuilt so just have to replace those.
Getting smaller parts cleaned up to paint, so haven't done a whole bunch, just tinkering and cleaning. The smaller parts seem to take much more time than the larger parts, don't want to get too far ahead without getting things back together.
Had a big car show here last weekend, me and my son went to check things out, not many old f100's there, lots of newer cars and a couple custom projects. Here's a few I did take pictures of.
One of the vendors there had license plates, I did find a Florida 1953 tag, but the guy wanted 80 bucks for it, just couldn't pay that much for it. I have seen them in better shape for around 40-50 dollars. will just have to keep looking.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
