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Do not be that concern about the vacuum hose disconnected. Do be concern about plug wires routing and firing order and then distributor timing. May not be a bad idea to remove all the plugs and see if the engine will crank more rapidly, as suggested. Do you have any kind of a manual? If, not, research timing and firing order for the Cleveland 351.
@JimG1098 - yes it is slow and labored. It's a new battery but have been trying to start for sometime. Have it on the charger now to ensure that the battery is fully strength.
@KurtG - Battery cables and starter cables have been replaced. As well as the starter is new too. The timing I am referring to is the distributor timing. When I got the truck the distributor was lose and was told the points were bad. I have replaced the points (dual points) and just had a call with the seller who pointed out that the vacuum advanced inside the distributor cap had come disconnected.
Welcome to the site! I'm curious as to what the problem is.
Note this is just my input:
If before you try the pulling of all the plugs, to make sure that distributor is generally in the right spot you can pull the #1 plug find something to insert into the plug hole and turn the engine by hand until the #1 cylinder pushes that something up and than starts to go back down (there is actually a tool for this but why spend the $). This should be close to top dead center or 180 degrees out. IF there are timing marks on the crank you can see where that gets you on there or pull the cap and verify where the rotor is pointing to. Should be close to TDC on the crank or very close -just past- the #1 plug terminal on the cap or if 180 out, the #6 plug terminal. If I remember stock timing is 10 degrees BTDC on the 302 and 351W, but don't quote me on it with the Cleveland. If it's off set the crank to 10 degrees BTDC and/or turn the distributor to get it close and try again (note the distributor turns counter clockwise!, just have to say it as that got me once....once ).
With all that said.. with the low voltage to the coil timing may not be the issue but if you get that set right you can then rule it out. Good Luck and keep us updated!
Ok guys I have removed all the plugs and it didn't change the slow / laboring turning over. Just to be on the safe side I went and got a new battery as well and still slow / laboring turning over as if the battery was dead.
I am still concerned that I am not getting 12 volts at the starter which I believe would be the slow / laboring turning over. This doesn't make sense I have checked the grounds and they look and read good motor frame body. I even jumped the solenoid and still don't get 12 volts.
I feel eventually I will need to do a complete re-wire because the guy before did a Frankenstein job. I would like to get it running first. When I am ready to replace the wire harness is there 1 that you would recommend?
If you have a stick shift, is there any chance the flywheel cover or dust cover could be jammed in against the flywheel? Or is there a chance rodents could have found their way into the clutch or into the torque converter area?
Not sure I visualize where those extra wires are going or their purpose.
Welcome to the site. You seem to have replaced everything, so the next step would be to follow the power from the battery. The solenoid(sp?) is the gap between the battery and the starter. Are there 12 volts crossing it or is it bad. Only a guess as electrical issues can be very frustrating. Good luck.
it's an automatic.. Funny you mention rodents no there are no rodents actually had a rodent inspection today (wife heard noise in attic) ..
I assume the extra wires you are referring to is on the solenoid? well the I know the big cables on either side, left goes to positive on the battery and right goes to starter.. the 2 middle posts not sure but thought they go to the ignition. Left middle is labeled (S) and when the key is in the start position voltage bounces around between 6 - 8 the middle right post labeled (I) gets voltage when key is in the on position and I get 5.6 volts steady.
Hey Kevin, just for fun you should pull the starter on test it to see how it spins when free. looks like it's easy to get to and a set of jumper cables would work for power. I've found bad starters like that. If the thing doesn't try to jump away from you when laying on the ground then that starter needs further testing like at a place that can read the amp draw.
I like the idea of pulling the starter to test. I will try todo that this week.
Prior to buying the truck the guy sent me a video of it running also when I received the truck I was able to briefly get it started running really rough and couldn't keep it running. The guy I bought it from said that the points where bad so that is why I assumed it wasn't running. I have since changed the point but even prior to changing the points I couldn't get it to start again.
I did just speak to the seller and he mentioned he had the same problem but it was because the vacuum advance came disconnected within the distributor. I checked it was disconnected I have reconnected but no difference nor do I think this would be the cause of the low voltage at the starter.
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