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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

56 Panel not starting

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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 07:46 AM
  #1  
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56 Panel not starting

Hi guys,
I have recently purchased what I was told a running 56 F100 Panel. I have been looking for this truck for over 5 years so you can image my excitement when I found this. Initially I was told that the dual points failed and that is why it wasn't running.

Well through my investigation There is no spark at the plugs and very faint spark at the coil. I voltage at the coil is on 5.6volts, as well as at the starter solenoid. The battery is new. I have measured the voltage directly at the ignition and it's measuring 12volts. I have cleaned up the ground connects and all appears to be good.

Do you have any suggestions what I can look at to get it started?
I though that I should be getting 12 volts at the starter and between 9-12 volts at the coil can you please confirm what voltage I should be reading.

Thank you
Kevin
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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Check for poor grounds. Poking with the meter should yield 12 volts most anywhere voltage is expected. Start with measuring across the battery and go from there. New and almost new batteries have been found to be bad.
Edit: Excuse me but welcome to the forum.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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I'm not one of the experts here and don't have any advice to share. Someone more knowledgable will be along soon. As a fellow panel owner, I just wanted to welcome you to FTE. You have come to the right place for advice and support for your new purchase. When you have a chance, share some pictures of your truck. Welcome and good luck!
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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I have ground cables from the battery directly to the engine as well as to the body. I have tested from battery positive and poked different chassis engine and frame spots for ground and get the expected 12volts. Should I run another strap from the engine ground directly to the frame?

Thank you for the welcome messages I am excited to be a part of this community and nice to meet other panel owners.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 09:21 AM
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A stock battery installation on the '56 would have the ground from the battery to the frame of the truck. (If memory is correct) So, yes, you need that ground to the truck frame.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 09:28 AM
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Sorry should have mentioned this at first. This is not a stock 56, it is pro street build that was done in the early 90's with a 351 Cleveland.
The battery has been relocated under the passenger seat in a custom batter box. There is a ground cable from the battery to the battery box.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Coachkev70
Sorry should have mentioned this at first. This is not a stock 56, it is pro street build that was done in the early 90's with a 351 Cleveland.
The battery has been relocated under the passenger seat in a custom batter box. There is a ground cable from the battery to the battery box.

Stock battery location would have been under the floorboards on the passenger side, front of an optional passenger seat, I believe.
Thanks for telling us what we're working with. IMO, a battery box would not constitute a good ground point unless the installer designed it as such.
If I am wrong on my memories of the panel and it is any different than a truck, some of the panel guys will correct me.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 10:13 AM
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First off, Welcome to FTE. Always remember when dealing with these old trucks that you can never have to many grounds because over time the connection gets lost. if you want to test to see if it will run you can always pull the "+" side of coil off and give it 12v from battery or know good source to see if it fires. If you do this just do to test and see if it runs, you don't want to burn the points. The stock battery is under floorboards as mentioned.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 12:20 PM
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CoachKev, Welcome to a great place.

As others have said, if you have 12v at the bat, you should have it all over. Check connections at you ignition switch. Other owner may have installed a aux switch or switch is wired wrong.

There appears to be something shunting down the 12 v at the starter also.
Will follow this thread
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 01:21 PM
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Wow the response from the forum has been very exciting I appreciate all the responses.
So far I have inspected all the grounds and cleaned the connections. I have a cleans grounds going to engine, frame and chassis At the point the truck still will not start, when attempting to start it sounds very strained although it's a new battery but will need to put it on a charger due to continuing to trying to start. I spoke with the guy who sold me the truck he mentioned the vacuum advance in the dist may come disconnected which it was and I reconnected and feel that that the strained starting may be due to the timing being out. Any idea or advice? I am very desperate to get it running.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 01:27 PM
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You have a gremlin shunting down your voltage to the starter and coil. That particular trouble must be found before that truck will start.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 01:27 PM
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When it turns over, is it slow and labored or fast
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 02:54 PM
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Coachkev slow turning starter could be bad battery cable or bad starter. timing would have to be way out and getting spark in order for that to play a roll in slow crank, unless you mean valve timing from improper installed timing chain. Oh if you connect coil to battery remember that you must disconnect the wire to shut down motor. I forgot that once.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 04:37 PM
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@JimG1098 - yes it is slow and labored. It's a new battery but have been trying to start for sometime. Have it on the charger now to ensure that the battery is fully strength.

@KurtG - Battery cables and starter cables have been replaced. As well as the starter is new too. The timing I am referring to is the distributor timing. When I got the truck the distributor was lose and was told the points were bad. I have replaced the points (dual points) and just had a call with the seller who pointed out that the vacuum advanced inside the distributor cap had come disconnected.

Kevin
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 04:51 PM
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Coachkev, may need to pull plugs and crank and see if it spins motor faster with no compression, new batteries can be weak, for that matter new starts an be bad. About 35 yrs ago I worked at a shop where the guy wanted to save money and he went to a other place and bought the starter, we installed it and it was bad. He was mad because boss wanted to charge him again to remove and replace. The guy was not buying out parts but somebody else's. when you bought the truck when was last time the previous owner said it ran?
 
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