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I have a limited knowledge of nitrous on an FE motor however I've played a lot on many old stock blocks and heads through out my years. I used to find them, build them and have them blown by the end of the weekend. Theres not a stock motor out there built to handle nitrous especially FE's.
Nitrous can be a tricky thing. Sometimes nothing happens but sometimes it does. Meaning, just cause you think it'll be OK, it'll grenade on you fast enough to wipe the smile clean off your face and possibly hurt you or someone else in the process. Been there. done that, have scars to prove it.
IMO, for what it's worth, Nitrous on base or stock FE's is senseless. That's just not what they were built for....... unless it's BUILT as a nitrous motor. Build it with nitrous capable parts able to handle the extra "pow" and you will enjoy it longer sans tires or axles or drive shafts or gears or transmission etc...... .
Now, once you build that nitrous FE motor, remember your crappy suspension and crappy brakes.......
i'm going off what my buddy did to his chevy 350( problem 1), i figured if i kept my timing a tad retarded and if i gave it enough fuel i'd be fine, this me just throwing ideas around looking for some one with experience , reason being i'm young, stupid and my buddy has a faster truck( problem 2). my 390 runs good but it feel like its lacking something.
Ditch the 360 and go with the 390, 390's longer stroke and higher compression make better power plus 390 rods are stronger than 352-360 rods.
A good machine shop can fix the broken bolt problem but ether set of heads will work, I'd have the exhaust valves upgraded the larger 428cj size.
Ford had a nice 480-490 lift cam they used in 390GT, 428CJ and 68 427 hydraulic motors, it idled good, responded well, pulled strong to nearly 4500 rpm and worked with stock valve springs, mellings and perfect circle use to make copies of this cam.
Edelbrock Performer rpm is a good intake to use, takes nearly 50 lbs off the weight of the engine, has good street manners and performs well. block off the exhaust crossover to help cool the intake.
Ford retarded the cam timing in 71 or 72 so get a timing chain for a 69 model to help take the laziness out of the engine.
FE engines respond well the good flowing exhaust systems (headers).
It's difficult for a FE to compete against a nitrous sprayed small block chubby but it'll easily out last several nitrous sprayed chubbys.
Edelbrock Performer rpm is a good intake to use, takes nearly 50 lbs off the weight of the engine, has good street manners and performs well. block off the exhaust crossover to help cool the intake.
Performer RPM doesn't have an exhaust crossover.
For a 360 without some major upgrades, the stock iron intake would actually perform better below 3500rpms.
The original poster has to have an honest look at where his engine is going to spend most of it's time.
its in my Daily, that being said i do like to go cruise in it, as well as race my buddies here and there. i'm may just spend the money to build up the 390 i currently have if i go this rout this is what i'm thinking... 490ish cam, either have the heads done up or go to aluminium, headers, switch from the edelbrock preformer 390 to the preformer rpm, a holley 650 aluminium double pumper, i'm thinking a set of 3.70 gears would help the rear end and wouldn't be to bad on gas or a go back to the 3.00 gear that was stock.
Performer intake- idle to 5500 rpm
Performer RPM- 1500 to 5500 rpm, This manifold is a closer design match to Fords PI manifolds that are a good all around manifold.
Vacuum secondary is a better daily driver carb.
Depending on tire size (od) 3.25's are a nice daily driver street gear with a little extra getup, 3.50's is what a lot of 70's 4x4's came with, but would work better today with OD trans, with todays higher speed limits 3.70's are going to suck gas without a OD trans, but will launch good in a race.
i think i may update my heads( or go aluminum), put the 490ish edelbrock cam in, and get a perfomer rpm , and headers, with my 40 over bore should be a stout engine. being i'm running a C6 what stall and rear end gear would you guys think is best?
This will dictate cam to some extent. Rear end and stall are based on this whole package as well.
Just tossing heads/cam/intake at a 7:1 360 may not make it a powerful engine.
its in my Daily, that being said i do like to go cruise in it, as well as race my buddies here and there. i'm may just spend the money to build up the 390 i currently have if i go this rout this is what i'm thinking... 490ish cam, either have the heads done up or go to aluminium, headers, switch from the edelbrock preformer 390 to the preformer rpm, a holley 650 aluminium double pumper, i'm thinking a set of 3.70 gears would help the rear end and wouldn't be to bad on gas or a go back to the 3.00 gear that was stock.
If you are wanting to play with the mouse motor you could go with a 351W and make those run pretty good on nitrous shot. I have a buddy that has that in an 83 T-bird. It runs pretty dang strong but he has super low gears in it.....456 cant drive it on the highway without your teeth rattling out....
This will dictate cam to some extent. Rear end and stall are based on this whole package as well.
Just tossing heads/cam/intake at a 7:1 360 may not make it a powerful engine.
I believe the .040 over engine he's talking about is a 390.
I believe the .040 over engine he's talking about is a 390.
yes it is. it has slightly milled heads, unknown cam, its 40 over with flat top cast pistons. my grandpa said it was built to 68 tbird specs ( dunno what he meant by that).
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