Need to get a return line kit and if no one has a good one, A POS battery cable. Only place around here that has a kit on hand is orielly and theirs is made by BWD and is $72. I have seen some online for as low as $30 but how good are they? After reading the wall of shame, It looks like there is alot of people making old junk look and sound good and getting good money for it from people who are not expertly familiar with these engines.
And the batt cable. Seen a Motorcraft at a few online places for $124 but oreilly has on for close to $90. Under the name "Super Start". Used their heavy duty batt terminals before and didn't have a problem. How would this hold up?

And lastly, IP. Until I can track one down, What are some honest places to look for one? And actually, At this time, I prefer a used one but not one close to death either. In other words, One someone had but upgraded and want to get rid of their old one or a "dealer" of them. Seen a ton but damn they're expensive.
If its not painfully obvious already, I'm in a bit of a rush on this...But not in such a rush I won't do this right. Once it fires off on its own, Things can slow down.

 

try the UHaul ebay store .. they're liquidating parts ..

DO CONFIRM that they fit .. just some possible finds >

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WC9327-CABLE-BATTERY-POSITIVE-Motorcraft-/201666966403?vxp=mtr&hash=item2ef449b383
items in store on eBay!

 

also i got a return kit .. either from advance or orielly it was ~30 ..

some 4years later .. dry as a bone ..

i think it comes down to how much care you take in installing it ..

be careful with the o-rings ..

i used vasoline .. but wheel bearing grease is often highly recomended ..

 

Oreilly return kit is now $70 and thats good to know it'll last about 4 years.
And with any kit, vasoline is your best friend. Mel has one for $60. Think thats what I'm going to do as soon as I can.
Just made a deal for an IP, 7.3 filter head, temp switch, some battery terminals, and couple other small things. After new battery cable and the deal I just made, My 2 week budget is just about gone. Might have to wait until this Thursday for the new budget.

 

if your IP is dead and you need a replacement check with > idiperformance.com

not used or inexpensive .. but highly recommended ..

 

Idiperformance.com is who I trust with IPs. Right now, he's the *only* one I trust with IP rebuilding, as he does stand behind them.

Return line kit? Get whatever you can find cheaply on Ebay. I think I got a kit for $20 that is just fine quality wise.

The trick I find for no leaks? When you install the O-rings, coat them with hi-temp lithium wheel bearing grease. It totally solved all my leaking problems, including when pulling the caps and reinstalling them using the same old O-rings.

Vasoline just... doesn't work.

 

After thinking about it, How "easy" it is to replace the kit, and this is just to replace the old dried and worn out stuff on it for now to see if she'll light...I was going to order one from Conestoga (Mel) Monday but its $60 and I just had an unexpected starter replacement expense happen....This stuff I'm spending large cash on now (More than $40), If she don't light I can at least sell it and get something back. Return kits are a one way trip....
As for the IP, I made a deal with a guy on one that he knows works and stands behind it for $145. So I got the IP covered and I think I'll just get a cheap kit for now.
I did however get a battery cable from oreillys that I thought would be cheaply made like everything else they sell is. No, 2/0 cable, plenty long, terminal covers, and conduit, and MADE IN USA for around $95.
Never thought about using lithium grease for the kit though. I can see how it would work a little better....Wait, Don't you have a youtube channel and recorded the procedure for bleeding the injectors and first fire of yours on some kind of stand?

 

you don't need a return kit to start the motor ..

it'll run fine that just stops the leaks at the injectors for returning fuel ..

but you may be able to reuse the plastic 't's and add fresh fuel hoses ..

just replacing the Orings .. McMaster Carr will have them .. and get Viton .. they'd probably be less then 5$ for all of them .. though the plastic t's may have ovaled out and no guarantee the fuel hose clamps will still have decent clamping pressure ..

i did save my old kit so .. in the future i can mix and match or add Viton Orings or what not when mine does ever start leaking ..

 

Maybe not to start it but I don't want to risk having a fuel leak that could cause a fire or given the high pressure a cup to explode from fatigue and have a real big problem on my hands. I'm in a hell of a bind. Its a battle between "Should I get cheaper just to test run her? Or, Should I go for quality stuff thats more so if she does run I've already got the right stuff and don't need to buy it again doubling my cost?"

 

well .. don't worry .. i've never heard of one 'spirting' or exploding .. or starting a fire .. diesel after all isn't flamable under normal atmosphere ..

i would just run it and see .. but it's up to your budget how far you wan't to go with it .. can do just the Orings to getting high dollar aluminum fittings ..

i think Idioit has some really nice return fitting i have seen on one of his motors ..

but have you checked rockauto.com ?.. they probably have an inexpensive one ..

 

here ya go >>

More Information for DELPHI 7135264

$26 dollars

 

Yeah, I do. And yes I have done that. I've also bleed the injectors in the truck many times, removed and swapped IPs, injectors, lines, heads, etc. etc. multiple times on multiple trucks. If you can do it wrong on an IDI, I've probably done it...


There is zero pressure behind the cup. Remember that pressure is a function of restriction. If you blocked off the returns, pressure would slowly build until something happened... but that something would simply be the fuel seeping by the O-ring, the path of least resistance.
You have somewhere between 0 and 2 PSI in the return system; as soon as the fuel goes into the injector return passage on the injector, it immediately drops.

IIRC, on my first start video on the stand? I had /no/ return line caps installed, just letting it leak(the amount leaked was pretty small; most of the return fuel comes from the IP).


Also, I've had /lots/ of diesel leaks on top of my hot engine at times in the past. What really happens is that the diesel evaporates and keeps the metal surfaces cooler than they would be otherwise.
If you cram a paper towel under the intake manifold to soak up diesel, you will find that if you have leaks, the paper towel will be soaked, but otherwise normal. If not, the paper towel will become crisp and brown in spots(i.e. it got much hotter).

No fires. It's one of the reasons I like diesel vs gasoline. Much harder to light your truck on fire.

 

Tell me about it. I've been known to win cash bets by taking a lit smoke and tossing it into a 5 gallon bucket of fuel. And watch people run in fear then when they maybe finally come back explain how and why it didn't ignite. But with this truck, If it can have a remote possibility to happen, It will. And being close to the house and a mobile home in storage...Doesn't take much.