Now that everything has slowed down and money isn't tighter than a snare drum, I can re-focus on my '87. Still need a cab but for right now, Getting it to run is top priority. If it does run, Even sputters and tries, I have the ok to put more cash into it. It currently has no fuel tanks or pump. Tanks are shot from covered in loose "dusty" rust which took out both sending units. The mechanical fuel pump was by-passed years ago and the electric that was put on is trash. This engine has sat for the past year with no oil or water in it. What oil is in it is sitting in the oil pan at the bottom mixed with diesel that was forgotten about until recently. And no oil filter either. Was working on it then life happened and just haven't had a chance to get to it....It does have a air filter housing with filter installed though. Radiator cap was also left off. Its not seized up either. Found that out by mistake tonight...Put a weak battery in to test something and accidentally bumped it over.

My question is,
Can someone give me a detailed list of what I will need and how to do a "temp" setup to see if this old beast will run again? I have the right battery cables but still either need the core support one or someway to lengthen the one I have. I do have the right batteries. I have a 6.0 that is never driven and has now developed a rattle when it hits a bump.
I have two good batteries, cables, a 5 gallon fuel can, some wd-40, old trans fluid, and a squirt can.
I also have a 4.9 that DID run when I parked it 5 years ago and is in EXTREME need of a body shop but that's later. This engine did have a sticker on the passenger valve cover that read "Motorcraft Re-manufactured Engine." And it had punch outs all the way up for a 6.0 so this engine isn't that old. And just to see if it'll run, everything needs to be budget oriented for now. I've already got at least $700 in this truck so far. If this post seems out of wack, I'm blaming the caffeine on it.
So what do I completely need and in what order do I need to do it so nothing is over looked and I can "guarantee" she'll start or at least show signs of life?
BTW, I know a few guys have PM'd me with parts. Sorry I haven't got a chance to get back to you. But with the current situation, A running engine is the determining factor in EVERYTHING.

Thanks for the help.

 

fill the crank case with oil, and the radiator with coolant.

get a cheap electric fuel pump, and hook it up to the filter inlet. put the pickup into the 5 gallon can full of diesel. one good battery should be more than enough to fire it up as long as it is not too cold.

 

Pump I bought to test didn't do ANYTHING. Just buzzed. However, I hit it with a wiff of "starting fluid" and she kicked a few times. BUT, when I took a spray bottle and sprayed fuel into the intake, Nothing. Might of been turning over to slow, might of been to rich, might of been anything. Also, When she was kicking, A few times I felt a hard BUMP and it would return to normal. She did try to start though. But very little. My gauges are also totally out of wack. But that's later.

 

Honestly, if the engine turns over(by hand), it'll run. Might take some work if the IP is gunked up, but it will be OK. If it's siezed(usually due to water getting into the cylinders via the air cleaner and intake manifold), well, all bets are off.

Either get a primer bulb, or a stock mechanical pump. They are both pretty cheap, and will definitely work. Do the same running it from a bucket thing.

 

Well, I think my mistake was I got the mr. gasket green pump. What would be a step up and still be "economical" for testing?

 

The stock mech pump is usually $20 new from Autozone, and a hand primer bulb is somewhere between $7.99 and $17.99 depending on where you get it. Both of those work quite well at pulling fuel uphill and getting it to the IP.
Remember, once you've got fuel to the IP, the IP will suck if needed. You can also hand-manipulate the stock mech pump and prime the system before installing it, if you are using a bucket which has plenty of slack in the hose.

Electric pumps sound good, but don't pull air through them well at all, and are expensive for good ones.

 

yep sounds like it's vapor locked .. i'd get a mech pump .. also .. the fuel will take a moment to make it through the ip and then the lines ..

crack open the lines at the injectors and run it till fuel starts leaking out .. then tighten em' down again .. / not necessary but faster .. if you have limited batts and no charger ..

ether is fine ... but you have to unhook the glow plugs or you'll do damage to the engine .. even just a few times can be all it takes to damage an engine with ether and glow plugs .. no glow plugs on and it's fine though ..

 

I don't think what I used was true ether. Stuff works on Gasser's too. Didn't smell like it either. Its made by Johnsons. Got it at O'Reillys. I'm pulling the GPS out tonight after work and cranking it over to bleed the lines

 

Ordering new pos batt cables and return line kit this week. Tried to bleed injector lines but got nothing except fuel returning to tank. Pulled all GPs out to ease cranking and number 7 cylinder puffed every time it got to tdc. Thinking if stripping engine exterior and replacing all this old and worn components...