Freezing temp issues
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Freezing temp issues
I have an 02 250 5.4. 103,000 miles. My truck at random times will not start in below freezing temps. Acts as if a frozen fuel line. With a little work, I can get it running by pouring hot water on the fuel rail or a shot of starting fluid or sometimes both. It's been going on about 3 or 4 weeks now and I have ran through 4 bottles of dry gas with about 15 gallons each time. Also have replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. I'm 99.9% positive the pump is working and there are no leaks or holes in tank that I can see. My next step is to drop the tank and clean it out but trying to avoid that. Anyone have any ideas
New User
Joined: Dec 2013
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Hi, I am a new user here too 
I had the same issue suddenly with my V8 5.2 L and googled around. I read that oil too light in weight can actually freeze and clog up the engine block to where it can't turn over, and I read that coolant can do the same. I don't know if it's true yet or not as I am working on solving the same issue with mine currently LOL but now that temps are warming up to high 60s and hit 70 yesterday (F) she wants to turn over. So could be some truth to that...
Meanwhile, best of luck to both of us to get them started eventually!
I had the same issue suddenly with my V8 5.2 L and googled around. I read that oil too light in weight can actually freeze and clog up the engine block to where it can't turn over, and I read that coolant can do the same. I don't know if it's true yet or not as I am working on solving the same issue with mine currently LOL but now that temps are warming up to high 60s and hit 70 yesterday (F) she wants to turn over. So could be some truth to that...
Meanwhile, best of luck to both of us to get them started eventually!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Once you have it running check the fuel pressure--it could be the pump seizing when it gets that cold.
I've had COP's show misfires when it drops below 35* overnight, would perform perfectly fine when warm.
Camper I'd think low enough temps to freeze oil solid would pretty much kill most auto/truck batteries right fast. Its hard to believe that's a fact. In your case the battery or starter could be showing signs they're about to fail completely.
Cold temps do funny things.
I've had COP's show misfires when it drops below 35* overnight, would perform perfectly fine when warm.
Camper I'd think low enough temps to freeze oil solid would pretty much kill most auto/truck batteries right fast. Its hard to believe that's a fact. In your case the battery or starter could be showing signs they're about to fail completely.
Cold temps do funny things.
New User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6
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Once you have it running check the fuel pressure--it could be the pump seizing when it gets that cold.
I've had COP's show misfires when it drops below 35* overnight, would perform perfectly fine when warm.
Camper I'd think low enough temps to freeze oil solid would pretty much kill most auto/truck batteries right fast. Its hard to believe that's a fact. In your case the battery or starter could be showing signs they're about to fail completely.
Cold temps do funny things.
I've had COP's show misfires when it drops below 35* overnight, would perform perfectly fine when warm.
Camper I'd think low enough temps to freeze oil solid would pretty much kill most auto/truck batteries right fast. Its hard to believe that's a fact. In your case the battery or starter could be showing signs they're about to fail completely.
Cold temps do funny things.
How do I check the pressure on the fuel pump? The starter sounded fine and the battery is brand spanking new. She cranked and cranked just the motor would not turn over, so it very well could be the fuel pump not delivering fuel.
What would cause a fuel pump to seize in freezing weather when it had not done it in years past?
I'm still going to get her oil changed though since I haven't had it changed since last summer, even though I don't drive her much. A lighter weight will probably be best?? We've got a few months left of winter and it could very well get to freezing again...
Then later in the year have her radiator flushed? There are various types of coolant in there and it looks like sludge in the reservoir--That can't be good for her?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
There is a fuel pressure test port on your fuel rail, located on top of the engine--they feed the injectors. It will most likely be located near the fuel pressure regulator, typically rear left (driver) side of the engine. This does require a special gauge or a scanner that will give live data on such parameters as fuel pressure.
Nothing more than a WAG but an assembly affected by temperatures means something inside has worn to the point its out of spec. That being so expansion or contraction of something inside affects whether it will work or not. Other than that not a clue in your case.
Use whatever oil is spec'd for your engine----its just smart to do so! Using dino or the usual petroleum oils I change at 3K miles OR 3 months--whichever comes first. The lack of miles driven between oil changes is probably more harmful than driven miles since oil will absorb moisture from humidity. As you probably already know that's just not good.
Flushing the cooling system is a great idea.
Nothing more than a WAG but an assembly affected by temperatures means something inside has worn to the point its out of spec. That being so expansion or contraction of something inside affects whether it will work or not. Other than that not a clue in your case.
Use whatever oil is spec'd for your engine----its just smart to do so! Using dino or the usual petroleum oils I change at 3K miles OR 3 months--whichever comes first. The lack of miles driven between oil changes is probably more harmful than driven miles since oil will absorb moisture from humidity. As you probably already know that's just not good.
Flushing the cooling system is a great idea.
New User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
There is a fuel pressure test port on your fuel rail, located on top of the engine--they feed the injectors. It will most likely be located near the fuel pressure regulator, typically rear left (driver) side of the engine. This does require a special gauge or a scanner that will give live data on such parameters as fuel pressure.
Nothing more than a WAG but an assembly affected by temperatures means something inside has worn to the point its out of spec. That being so expansion or contraction of something inside affects whether it will work or not. Other than that not a clue in your case.
Use whatever oil is spec'd for your engine----its just smart to do so! Using dino or the usual petroleum oils I change at 3K miles OR 3 months--whichever comes first. The lack of miles driven between oil changes is probably more harmful than driven miles since oil will absorb moisture from humidity. As you probably already know that's just not good.
Flushing the cooling system is a great idea.
Nothing more than a WAG but an assembly affected by temperatures means something inside has worn to the point its out of spec. That being so expansion or contraction of something inside affects whether it will work or not. Other than that not a clue in your case.
Use whatever oil is spec'd for your engine----its just smart to do so! Using dino or the usual petroleum oils I change at 3K miles OR 3 months--whichever comes first. The lack of miles driven between oil changes is probably more harmful than driven miles since oil will absorb moisture from humidity. As you probably already know that's just not good.
Flushing the cooling system is a great idea.
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