Overheating? maybe... thermostat issues
Distilled water is exactly that water that has been distilled it removes all organic impurities and dissolved inorganic solids but does not remove mineral impurities.
Deionized water removes all mineral impurities down to the molecular level the ions of iron, calcium,sulfates,sodium,chlorides, copper and other minerals that have attached themselves to the water molecules are stripped away.
Chemically it is more pure than distilled water. But deionization water does not significantly remove uncharged organic matter such as dissolved organic solids bacteria viruses etc.
Distilled water will be sterile deionized water may not be.
There has always been an ongoing argument what to use in your cooling system. Distilled or deionized water..
As some useless info chemically pure H2O is the strongest solvent known.
Deionized water as soon at is contacts the cooling system will start trying to replace the ions it lost in the deionization process pulling them from the surrounding strata Iron from the block, Copper from the rad, calcium and sodium from internal deposits.
Distilled water has basically zero dissolved solids and no organic matter (bacteria virus's etc) but will not have the mineral ions removed from it's molecules. Distilled water will pick up dissolved solids, salts, calcium etc till saturation.
Deionized water will also pick up dissolved solids, salts, calcium etc till saturation. but will also attack these minerals on the molecular level as it try's to replace the the ions it lost in the deionaztion process.
My take on it has always been distilled water in a new system and deionized water in an old system. Just cause you do not want the deionized water pulling Ions from the fresh new surrounding materials (copper Iron etc). Once the system has been in service for a bit deionized water will help keep things cleaner as it pulls Ions from the oxidized surfaces it comes in contact with and from any mineral deposits as well picking up dissolved materials till it reaches saturation.
That is my take on it. But your mileage may differ.
Semper Fi
Some times you will see deionized water in the pharmacy and in auto stores for coolant. I generally only use distilled also I'm not keen on the water pulling ions out of the engines metal lol. And we have the same issue here with our water here it's hard like concrete.
The coolants are definitely changing. Personally I use Rotella Ultra ELC in everything.
(Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Coolant-Antifreeze | Shell ROTELLA®.)
and
http://rotella.shell.com/products/an...s-brochure.pdf
It is compatible with ALL cooling systems regardless what was used form the factory.
Just do proper rinse of the coolant system and install. And it is good for the life of the engine. (even better you can get it at Wally World)
It is one of the very few coolants that meet the very tough new Caterpillar coolant specs.
Diesel coolants are specially formulated to prevent cavitation. We all know about the 7.3L IDI cavitation issue. This was not a failure in design but a failure in the coolant used. We know that the issue was from the cylinder walls flexing/vibrating and then cavitating the coolant and eating away the cylinder walls..
The pistons in an engine can move up and down up to and over 100 times a second. This movement can cause your engine's cylinder walls to vibrate, a lot. Although the outer wall of the cylinder is surrounded by coolant, its vibration/flex creates tiny vacuum pockets, causing bubbles of vapor to form on the cylinder wall (cavitation). When the cylinder wall vibrates/flexes back, these bubbles collapse under an huge pressure and take small chunks out of the wall eventually, you will have a failure of the cylinder wall. That is exactly what happened in the 7.3L IDI, in ALL thin wall casting engines the cylinder walls flex/vibrate.
The same effect happens in the water pump on the trailing edges of the impeller much like a propeller on a boat.
This is even more of a concern for the engines in our old trucks that may have seen multiple over bores with no guarantee that the cores were properly placed when the block was cast originally. Short of sonic checking there is no way to know for sure.
The new Caterpillar specs are aimed directly at stopping cavitation in the cooling system weather it be from the water pump or flexing/vibrating cylinder walls,
Rotella ULTA ELC not only eliminates this issue it also has no silicates in it like the old green coolant and is formulated to extend the life of gaskets and seals. Plus it provides better heat transfer than traditional coolants. And is compatible in older engines such as the ones in our trucks.
The Ford Gold, Ford recommends for their diesels is just the bare minimum at best in that application while fine for gas engines it is marginal for the diesels. The amount of SCA's (Supplemental Coolant Additives) in the Ford Gold is marginal. But of course this is to be expected as the products are built to a price point.
I run Rotella Ultra ELC in everything the trucks, the cars and the motorbikes and quads. It allows me to have just one type of coolant on the shelf in the garage and regardless of application I know I have the best coolant available for that application..








