Hello all...

I'm a total automotive novice, so please bear with me

While I was cleaning under the hood today, I topped off some coolant and started her up to pump some into the motor.

I noticed she seems to get hot pretty quickly, and the top hose from the radiator got "bulgy" pretty rapidly.

I pulled the thermostat, and it doesn't look broken (I've seen some fail before where one side actually breaks and it gets stuck either open or shut).

I went for a quick drive today and the temp gauge seems to stay pretty low; but, I just got the truck yesterday, so I can't attest to the accuracy of the readings

I'm uploading a video of it... but I'd love any insight you all may have. FYI- the steam is from me spraying some water on the radiator to hose off some coolant I spilled on it. It's coming from outside the rad, not from inside.

Thank in advance

LINK TO VIDEO:

 

Maybe and maybe not... With these rigs ya really gotta find out what is "normal" for your particular truck. Meaning, where the temp needle ranges during typical operation. I suggest installing real gauges with numerical graduations instead of the "Kentucky windage" which the OEM gauges provide.

With the thermostat, drill a 1/8-inch hole in the middle of the flange so it allows air to escape while filling the cooling system. If where it locates is vertical like on an FE, orient the hole at 12 o'clock.

A coolant hose should not bulge... if it feels soft and spongy, seriously consider replacing all of them to establish a baseline. And hoses go bad from the inside out... squeeze it lengthwise and see if you can feel if it is cracking or cracked on the inside. It'll fold rather than collapse.

Welcome to FTE.

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Thank you, sir!

I have no idea what you said in regard to the drilling or folding

They, the hoses, are squishy but they feel very pliable and not brittle or cracking.

When I pulled the thermo housing, and lifted it to turn it around and take a look at the thermo (with hoses attached), the upper hose easily kinked, if that means anything.

It's an Inline-6 240 CID, so the thermo-housing is oriented straight at you, pointing to the radiator.

I'm definitely going to get some real gauges, as I plan on this being a resto-project and have been ogling some of the nice interiors the members here have done. I have to move deliberately and slowly, though, as my dog's recent cancer issues take first priority, financially.

 

JustByron Welcome to and the Bumpside Forum.

One more thing to add, these trucks didn't come with nor need expansion tanks so ya gotta let em puke some off the top. I usually want to be able to see coolant or touch it with my middle finger. If you filled it to the top and after driving it, it's down a couple inches no worries. They will not sit and idle like the new cars so if it's running it needs to be moving.


John

 

Like Mr. Jowilker say with out a expansion tank you can't fill the radiator to the very top.

Their should be a imprinted lettering marking on the back side of the top Radiator tank that says "Fill Line" you'll have to look for it. It's generally like 2"inches from the top of the tank down.

Most nonworking thermostat won't close or open all the way.

It's best to replace thermostats every 3-5 yrs a long when doing a antifreeze coolant change.

I also test new thermostats in boiling hot water so you know for sure it's working.

Orich

 

Thank you, gentlemen

I put a puke tube on it and it pees out the bottom now, instead of all over the radiator. I'll probably be adding an expansion tank soon.

Could anyone clarify HIO Silver's drilling instructions? I didn't get it

Thanks again

 

 

Welcome in, Byron.

Since you know nothing of the truck's history, I would do a worst-case repair on the cooling system if I were you:
1) Drain radiator (and block if you are able).
2) Remove and replace upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hoses, fan belt.
3) Remove and replace thermostat with a quality 180* unit.
4) Replace belt(s).
5) Check water pump by spinning shaft . Any scratchiness or wobble, replace. Four bolts, piece of cake.
6) Fill radiator with tap water, drive 25 miles until water circulates with thermostat open, check for leaks, drain, tighten connections to your puke tank, refill with anti-freeze at a mix to suit your climate and distilled water.

This will give you five or more years of peace of mind. The parts tab will be $125-150 with a water pump and antifreeze. The labor tab will be a Saturday morning.

Hio will clarify the thermostat drill operation if you wish to go forward. Heed what he says.

These motors are very simple and forgiving.

Semper Fi

 

Thank you Smokey and Cougar - much appreciation.

That video confirmed what I had in my head, from HioSilver's instructions. Very nice

Cooling system... then brakes... then RUST. Lots of RUST.

Thanks again 'gents

 

Leave the level down a couple of inches and you do not need a expansion tank. Never put one on a I truck that I owned in 50 years of owning one. All my new vehicles have them from the factory and I use them.

Please spend all the money that you want. I'd find something else to spend it on. No tank no shroud.



John

 

The thermostat serves two purposes. 1. To cause the engine to warm up quickly to the degree of the thermostat, for fuel atomization purposes, and heater use. 2. To regulate the flow of coolant through the radiator so heat is exchanged properly. If the engine runs hot, and the thermostat is not stuck shut, its not the thermostat. Above it's opening temperature, the thermostat does not do anything. Just it being in the water flow slows down the speed which water flows through the radiator. Some people swear by a 160° thermostat thinking it will make their engine run cooler. All that does is delay warm air from the heater, and cause poor fuel atomization for longer until it finally warms up!

 

Not quite true. A 160°F stat may very well make your engine run cooler. It is entirely dependent on ambient temperature, humidity, the cooling systms thermal efficiency in transferring heat and BTU generating capabilities of the engine.


The rating on a T Stat is the temperature it starts to open.


For example if ambient conditions (cool enough) and thermal transfer efficiency of the cooling system is great enough the thermostat will directly regulate the engines operating temperature. Generally the engine will run about 15° F warmer than the opening temperature of the
stat. If your engine is exceeding this spread by much more than 20° F then your cooling system is not adequate for the engine, the current operating conditions and or the current ambient temperature conditions.


In -40° ambient conditions (especially on the highway) you would never run a 160°F stat for the simple reason most engines will never ever reach proper operating temp due the cooling system being able dissipate more BTU's than the engine can generate. In those conditions is it not uncommon to run a 202 or 205°F stat to help keep the engine at operating temp.


So in properly designed and adquate cooling system the T stat will definitely affect engine operating temperature.

Regardless you should try to keep the coolant temp above 180°F as engine wear increases drastically below 180°F

 

I disagree...an engine will not run cooler with a lower temperature t-stat. It is only the temperature it opens at. The lower temp t-stat, like stated above, will just make it take longer for the engine to come up to the proper operating temperature. The radiator determines the operating temperature of the engine by the amount of cooling it provides.

 

I agree with Turbo. Matthew, you wrote this:

In -40° ambient conditions (especially on the highway) you would never run a 160°F stat for the simple reason most engines will never ever reach proper operating temp due the cooling system being able dissipate more BTU's than the engine can generate. In those conditions is it not uncommon to run a 202 or 205°F stat to help keep the engine at operating temp.

If the engine never reaches the trigger temp for a 160* thermostat, what difference will a 205* make?

 

In a super cold climate like northern Canada, it may be possible for the radiator to bring the engine temperature down below the thermostat rating. Then a warmer thermostat would help keep the engine temperature up by stopping coolant flow through the radiator. But that would be a rare circumstance.