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I bought new doorman hangers and doorman leaf springs. I noticed there is a .1 inch gap between the eye of the leaf spring (3.5 inches wide) and the gap between the hanger fitting (3.6 inch width). When I bought the hangers, leaf springs and bolts and nuts and I didn't see any washers included. So I used a stainless steel .05 inch thick washer on both sides of the leaf spring to make up the gap.
I looked into the Chilton's Repair Manual and I didn't see any mention of these washers.
What is the correct procedure for this gap? I assume I am right because tightening on the clevis side of the fitting with the .1 gap would put that flange in severe bending. What has the rest of the Ford Truck Enthusiast's been doing for this installation?
I bought new doorman hangers and doorman leaf springs. I noticed there is a .1 inch gap between the eye of the leaf spring (3.5 inches wide) and the gap between the hanger fitting (3.6 inch width). When I bought the hangers, leaf springs and bolts and nuts and I didn't see any washers included. So I used a stainless steel .05 inch thick washer on both sides of the leaf spring to make up the gap.
I looked into the Chilton's Repair Manual and I didn't see any mention of these washers.
What is the correct procedure for this gap? I assume I am right because tightening on the clevis side of the fitting with the .1 gap would put that flange in severe bending. What has the rest of the Ford Truck Enthusiast's been doing for this installation?
Regards,
Larry
Remove the washers, crank the bolt tight. 0.1" is a large but reasonable manufacturing tolerance for a stamped steel part of that nature. 0.1" too loose is afar superior to 0.1" too tight.
Chilton's Specification on torquing the leaf spring bolts.
chilton's says to torque the front hanger bolt to 150 to 210 ft-lbs
Torque the rear hanger bolts to 75 to 115 ft-lbs. That is going to push in the clevis leg right up against the fitting and stress out the fitting flange.
Got to have a washer to take up the gap, I believe.
Oh and I forgot to tell you I just assembled the hanger parts and shackles. I haven't put it on the truck yet.
And once you bend that flange, it's toast and stressed past yield. So I gots ta know wha the official story is?????
Remove the washers, crank the bolt tight. 0.1" is a large but reasonable manufacturing tolerance for a stamped steel part of that nature. 0.1" too loose is afar superior to 0.1" too tight.
I mentioned that I assembled the shakles inside the fittings to see how tight or lose it would be. I haven't put it on the truck yet.
Dorman is just a cheap replacement and the quality suffers.
But all you had to do was put the shackle on the spring(with no spacers)
and the other end of the shackle into the hanger(again, no spacers)
let the weight of the truck on the axles and tighten the bolts. NO SPACERS NEEDED
I went out under my truck again to see if there was a spacer. I thought there was, but when I looked closer it was really the scale of rust that flaked off and looked like a washer. So maybe, you and the rest of the people advocating "no washers" are right.
What parts do you recommend that I buy instead of Doorman especially for the hangers. I couldn't find any.
Remove the washers, crank the bolt tight. 0.1" is a large but reasonable manufacturing tolerance for a stamped steel part of that nature. 0.1" too loose is afar superior to 0.1" too tight.
Yeah, see the post I made about the flake of rust that looks like a washer. Ok so no washers. Good thing I assembled the new parts and thought about it before torquing the bolts.
And those flanges look pushed in too. So I guess the engineers OKed it.
I went out under my truck again to see if there was a spacer. I thought there was, but when I looked closer it was really the scale of rust that flaked off and looked like a washer. So maybe, you and the rest of the people advocating "no washers" are right.
What parts do you recommend that I buy instead of Doorman especially for the hangers. I couldn't find any.
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