Clearing codes
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 256
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From: OKC
Clearing codes
This might sound dumb, but I am new to all the emissions stuff. Anyways, so if replace an egt sensor how soon do I have to clear the code after install of a fresh sensor? Could I replace it in my garage and then head to autozone and borrow their scanner or do I need to do the replacement in their parking lot and do it right after the installation? It's my old mans truck and he doesn't have a scanner for his rig. Thanks y'all.
Also any advice on changing these buggers?
Also any advice on changing these buggers?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 950
Likes: 6
From: Waco, Texas
My #4 sensor went out 2 weeks ago. I replaced the sensor and used my Scangauge II to clear the code. If the truck has the latest flash, then you should be able to change it and head down to AutoZone and clear it. If you know someone with a code scanner, they should also be able to clear it. Be careful on removing the sensor. Use some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on it several hours or even a day before and keep it soaked as it can be a b***h to remove. It is a 13mm, I had to clip the wires, you are committed then, no backing up, and place a deep socket, 6 pt., 1/2 in drive and removed it that way. A 13 mm line wrench was useless, and don't even think about an open end wrench. When you put the new one on, use high temp anti-seize. Do not put it back without it, you may regret it later.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 118
From: Tallassee, ALabama
My #4 sensor went out 2 weeks ago. I replaced the sensor and used my Scangauge II to clear the code. If the truck has the latest flash, then you should be able to change it and head down to AutoZone and clear it. If you know someone with a code scanner, they should also be able to clear it. Be careful on removing the sensor. Use some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on it several hours or even a day before and keep it soaked as it can be a b***h to remove. It is a 13mm, I had to clip the wires, you are committed then, no backing up, and place a deep socket, 6 pt., 1/2 in drive and removed it that way. A 13 mm line wrench was useless, and don't even think about an open end wrench. When you put the new one on, use high temp anti-seize. Do not put it back without it, you may regret it later.
FSA Title: EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR EXTENDED COVERAGE
Field Service Action Number: 15M02
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 118
From: Tallassee, ALabama
This might sound dumb, but I am new to all the emissions stuff. Anyways, so if replace an egt sensor how soon do I have to clear the code after install of a fresh sensor? Could I replace it in my garage and then head to autozone and borrow their scanner or do I need to do the replacement in their parking lot and do it right after the installation? It's my old mans truck and he doesn't have a scanner for his rig. Thanks y'all.
Also any advice on changing these buggers?
Also any advice on changing these buggers?
Call the dealer with the VIN of his truck and see if covered.
FSA Title: EXHAUST GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR EXTENDED COVERAGE
Field Service Action Number: 15M02
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 256
Likes: 1
From: OKC
All is well, it broke nicely nothing crazy cuz I soaked 2 days before and I just made sure I didn't torque the crud out of it when I put new one on, my wallet is 43 dollars lighter but oh well I was just glad I could help my dad. Thanks for the help!
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Prolocutor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 13,618
Likes: 1,245
From: Western MA
Good to hear it came right out for you. What a lot of guys used to do, when these were failing more often is soak them all, pull them all, and reinstall with anti-seize on the threads. Then if you had to do a roadside swap, you'd have a much better chance of the offending sensor coming right out. I always intended to do mine but never got around to it...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 118
From: Tallassee, ALabama
One should use a nickel anti-seize compound on the threads such as the Permatex brand...
The nickel helps..
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400 degree fahrenheit
For use with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys
For use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature
Recommended where copper contamination must be avoided
Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies
The nickel helps..
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400 degree fahrenheit
For use with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys
For use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature
Recommended where copper contamination must be avoided
Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies
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