Neep help!
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Neep help!
So this is my problem. So my driver's running boards lights weren't working, but my passenger side was, I had ordered brand new lights and bulbs so I decided to start with my driver side. After I had taken out the light itself and the bulb I found out that the connector was corroded and the new bulbs when I put them in wouldn't work, so I cut the wires and sliced new wires together probably very amateurly. I started with the backlight and that one went well then move to the front driver side running board light and after I had plugged in the light they all stopped working along with my power windows, my power seats, the interior dome lights, my mileage on my instrument cluster doesn't show anymore. By the way when I was checking this fuse box I noticed that 35 was blown which is a 10 amp fuse which goes to the instrument cluster, so I replaced it with a new 10 amp and it blew immediately what could be going on.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,727
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From: Almost back in TX biotche
My first thought would be a stripped wire grounding out somewhere, causing it to blow right away.
I would put in a 15amp to see if it blows right away. If it does then you know you have a short someplace. If it doesn't, I would leave the 15amp in there because I am lazy and don't want to mess with wiring until I have plenty of time and the weather is perfect.
I would put in a 15amp to see if it blows right away. If it does then you know you have a short someplace. If it doesn't, I would leave the 15amp in there because I am lazy and don't want to mess with wiring until I have plenty of time and the weather is perfect.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Enterprise, Alabama
I would disconnect the running board light harness and replace the fuse. If everything else works at least you know where to go to fix the problem. I may have a running board light harness you can have.
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: South Texas/RGV
Do not replace it with a higher amperage fuse. The fuse is doing its job perfectly right now.
I assume you just wrapped electrical tape around the splice points. A likely cause is one wire strand poking out and either shorting against ground or shorting against the other wire. I would first unwrap the wires, separate the light socket wires, wrap each individually with either electrical tape or wire nuts, make sure they aren't touching metal, then test with another fuse. If it blows then your problem is further up the line. If it is fine then first test the bulb socket with an ohmmeter to make sure it doesn't have a short, then reattach the wires making sure any loose strands are pressed down and a lot of wraps of electrical tape around each joint.
I assume you just wrapped electrical tape around the splice points. A likely cause is one wire strand poking out and either shorting against ground or shorting against the other wire. I would first unwrap the wires, separate the light socket wires, wrap each individually with either electrical tape or wire nuts, make sure they aren't touching metal, then test with another fuse. If it blows then your problem is further up the line. If it is fine then first test the bulb socket with an ohmmeter to make sure it doesn't have a short, then reattach the wires making sure any loose strands are pressed down and a lot of wraps of electrical tape around each joint.
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Okay thanks, I'll try that when I get home after work today. First I'm going to try 2 disassemble the light that blew the fuse and insert new 10amp fuse again and see what happens and then also look into what you're suggesting about the harness.
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Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Loveland,CO
I had the same problem, but my whole harness had heated up and melted inside causing the short. I suspect you have a short on the line somewhere.
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So I just got home and was messing with the Excursion. I disconnected the driver side running board lights that I spliced together and plugged in a new 10 amp fuse and everything works now except for my driver side power seats and now I have an ABS light on any clues?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
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As others have pointed out, you probably have a short somewhere in the harness for the board lights. Yes, there is a harness which in turn branches off to each individual corner. It's tucked up inside the running boards, then hooks in where Kevin indicated.
This rigs can go crazy when there's a short somewhere. I had a weak alternator throwing trans codes, others get trans codes from bad coils, so on and so forth. It wouldn't surprise me if you jostled the wiring enough to short it and cause issues elsewhere in the vehicle.
Test for continuity, then short to ground and short to power and see what's up. Start with the wires that you spliced to, and try wiggling things in small sections while testing to help narrow it down to a location if possible.
This rigs can go crazy when there's a short somewhere. I had a weak alternator throwing trans codes, others get trans codes from bad coils, so on and so forth. It wouldn't surprise me if you jostled the wiring enough to short it and cause issues elsewhere in the vehicle.
Test for continuity, then short to ground and short to power and see what's up. Start with the wires that you spliced to, and try wiggling things in small sections while testing to help narrow it down to a location if possible.
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