Wrench dash light turned on
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Wrench dash light turned on
2007 ford f250
200k on it
just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well.
on a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
no stock guages showed any raises in levels.
no noticed loss of power at all.
the light would only come on once i drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles.
it would not turn off when i slowed down,
but when i would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off.
just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on.
took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid.
any idea what would trigger the wrench?
200k on it
just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well.
on a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
no stock guages showed any raises in levels.
no noticed loss of power at all.
the light would only come on once i drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles.
it would not turn off when i slowed down,
but when i would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off.
just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on.
took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid.
any idea what would trigger the wrench?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,841
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The 2 most common are the difference between oil and coolant are too far apart I think it's 30° that triggers the light and a sticking turbo that is either over or under boosting. You need a gauge the reads live data scangauge 2 or edge insight cts or one of the smart phone apps with a Bluetooth adapter. Either torque or dashboss depending on what kind of phone you have. You may also have some codes stored even without the check engine light coming on may want to have them read and see what you come up with.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 4,392
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From: very South Texas
took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid.
the above statement makes NO sense to me.
all codes are valid, unless computer is having issues... go to another auto parts store..
the above statement makes NO sense to me.
all codes are valid, unless computer is having issues... go to another auto parts store..
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Planning on it today.
He said 4 codes showed up, but none were valid.
Never heard that before myself, but because he said they were no longer valid, that he didnt know what they meant.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,841
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Yea there is a reason that guy works at an autoparts store and makes $8 an hour he's an idiot. You should have gotten him to tell you what they were weather he thought they were valid or not although maybe it could have been he said that because the scanner wasn't capable of reading them.
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Had it scanned again,
The code that came up was:
Cylinder 7 glow plug circuit.
Not sure why/if that would trigger the wrench light?
Checked all other forums and all seem to red flag towards oil cooler.
The code that came up was:
Cylinder 7 glow plug circuit.
Not sure why/if that would trigger the wrench light?
Checked all other forums and all seem to red flag towards oil cooler.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,841
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The difference between coolant and oil is the most common followed by turbo under and overboost but no one can just guess. Again without the numbers it's speculation like I said before. Look at my other post above and get yourself and obd device that reads live data and do the oil cooler test. Truck fully warmed up unloaded flat as possible hwy 65 mph for 15 min oil and coolant temps need to be less than 15° apart. Coolant needs to be atleast 188° or you need a thermostat. If you plan on keeping the truck you need a way to read live data so pick the device you want and pull the trigger it will save you in the long run. Glow plug shouldn't set the wrench light to my knowledge I think only checkengine light on cali emmisions trucks. But your probably going to need a glow plug on top of whatever else you got happening.
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