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Don, my RV already has 6 point auto level and I even had the standard electric jacks put in the very rear meaning I have 8 points of contact on the ground when set up.
I've been thinking about the IS for a while. The price is a killer but I hear they do negotiate. I also have a call in to a friend who is the guy who runs my brand, XLR. He buys a lot of components from MorRyde and may be able to barter me a better deal.
Don, my RV already has 6 point auto level and I even had the standard electric jacks put in the very rear meaning I have 8 points of contact on the ground when set up.
I've been thinking about the IS for a while. The price is a killer but I hear they do negotiate. I also have a call in to a friend who is the guy who runs my brand, XLR. He buys a lot of components from MorRyde and may be able to barter me a better deal.
I built my shop 6 years ago and only put in a 12' door since that is all I needed for the camper. (48'x50') I am currently worried that this will not be high enough with the new truck. The 12' door requires a 14 ft ceiling height and I was trying to not have the building dominate the back yard and even put in a poured wall across the front lessen the visual impact facing the house and road since it is on top of a hill already. Now in my later years I wish I had planned farther ahead and made the accommodation for a full size rv/trailer.
Rodney, since you are already at full size make sure you build large enough to hook up your trailer and park inside and then some. The best plans of today always seem to change with the passage of time.
On the 2017's, are the bed rails and tail gate taller than say previous gen (2011)? If so, does the tail gate when opened get even closer to the 5er basement door? I was wondering if you can hook up with the tail gate down? Thanks in advance.
Edit to add that I know you can't hook up with tail gate up.
First... the rear measuring just behind the tires settled 2.5 inches when fully connected, my pin weight is aprox 4500 lbs so this should be a maximum figure.
Second... the helper springs are just before contact when loaded
Third... the bump stop is approximately 1.5" from contact so if I remove the 2" spacer this will put me on the stop.
Forth... the front of my TH is 3" high
Fifth... with my hitch set at 17" I have 6" of clearance above bed rails.
Sixth... can hook up with tailgate down,,, it is only one inch longer.
After all of this my only answer may be to raise my TH 2 or 3" togged close to level.
last info: when connected the rear of truck is still 1" above the front measuring at body line
I hope someone comes up with another solution because raising TH is not something I want to do.
invstr55 that is a tough call. 6" is always been my safe minimum. I know you have already looked but do you have any adjustment on the trailer. Mine had 3 adjustment holes (and I'm on the lowest one so I can't make my trailer higher). But I'm looking for new trailer anyway so will have to take that into account. Also maybe you can flip the axles. But either way it's going to be a lot of work
invstr55 that is a tough call. 6" is always been my safe minimum. I know you have already looked but do you have any adjustment on the trailer. Mine had 3 adjustment holes (and I'm on the lowest one so I can't make my trailer higher). But I'm looking for new trailer anyway so will have to take that into account. Also maybe you can flip the axles. But either way it's going to be a lot of work
I can gain another 1.5" on the pin box but since I am already high on the front I feel I need to fix that first before worrying about more clearance on bed rails.
I can gain another 1.5" on the pin box but since I am already high on the front I feel I need to fix that first before worrying about more clearance on bed rails.
The ones I'm thinking about are on the trailer frame.
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
