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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Power window sluggish

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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 01:22 PM
  #1  
12valveEx's Avatar
12valveEx
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Power window sluggish

On two of my cutaways the passenger windows are very sluggish, and one of them is a creampuff with only 3,600 miles - is there any solution to this short of replacing the power window regulators?

Also, on the creampuff the driver side power window doesn't go all the way down, at about an 3/4" above the sill it audibly hits a stop? Any ideas on what's going on with that one?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 02:43 PM
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vettex2
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you need to pull the interior door skin and look to see what's hitting
 
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Old Sep 11, 2016 | 03:30 PM
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Spray some silicone spray onto the window rubber channel. It will help a bunch!
 
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 01:29 PM
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From: Vero Beach, FL
Originally Posted by 12valveEx
On two of my cutaways the passenger windows are very sluggish, and one of them is a creampuff with only 3,600 miles - is there any solution to this short of replacing the power window regulators?

Also, on the creampuff the driver side power window doesn't go all the way down, at about an 3/4" above the sill it audibly hits a stop? Any ideas on what's going on with that one?
Most of the time what happens is the plastic cable guides break. When they do the cable will start to bind and eventually get caught up in the motor or on the edge of the guide track. If it doesn't go down all the way I can pretty much guarantee that that's what has happened especially if its sluggish too. that is caused by the binding. your best plan of attack is to replace the entire assembly. they are usually around $100 bucks and not all that difficult to do. In my 97 e350 once the door panel is off you take a small punch and knock the pins out of the rivets, (they pop out really easy ) then take a drill bit that is a mid size between the hole that the pin was in and the outside diameter of the rivet and drill the head off. The glass can usually stay in the door, just lift it all the way up after drilling the 2 rivets out that hold it to the track and zip tie it up in place. Then finagle the track and motor out through the door skin. Once everything is out you can use a vacuum to suck the pieces of rivets out of the door. The hardest part of the hole deal is bolting the new assembly in. My kit came with bolts and nuts and its a bear to get a hand inside the door to hold the nuts in place.
 
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