Ok I just put a new cd player/changer into my vehicle. I ordered a nice Alpine system multimedia station and cd changer--got all this from Crutchfield--an IVA-C801 (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pYYlkWA...p?i=500IVAC801) and CHA-1214 (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pYYlkWA...p?i=500CHA1214)

I have a 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer, which did have the MACH radio/cd/tape unit in it (with the sporadic display problem).

As part of the install process, the Crutchfield papers said to bypass or disconnect the factory amplifier. It was located behind the cargo panel, on the right rear of the vehicle. There was an amp mounted to the vehicle and so I unplugged the input and output on it. The factory amp I removed has the number F80F - 18C08 - BA on the side.

Now, I have just a dangling speaker (or Subwoofer) in the back cargo area.

So, the question is how to get some sound back there again

I have preamp outputs on my tuner box on my new system. I just can't figure out what kind of new amp I need to buy just to power that one speaker (subwoofer, whatever it is). The head unit has built in amp for my four door speakers...I just want to get some sound back out of that rear thingy.

Any ideas??

 

get a cheap 100w at autozone for liek $40 and just run a new wire to the amp and then to the sub/speaker. I figure 100 because if its a speaker it won't blow it but if its a sub it will work....or you could just run it stright to the speaker itself

 

I'd really like to figure out what kind of factory amp this is that I had to bypass, so that I can buy a regular replacement amp and put it back to power that rear speaker (sub).

Ok....what is the difference between a speaker and a subwoofer!!?

Thanks!

 

speakers can handle alot of different frequencies(liek music and voices) and subs only handle lows(bass)

 

Stay away from anything audio that autozone sells. You can get a small amp (100wrms max) That sub will only handle about 60wrms but you need to pull the amp out and see the specs on it. It might be a dual 4-3ohm which will be the deciding factor in replacing the amp.

 

That helps, but how do I determine the specs on the amp that came out of there, and the sub that's in the back now??

I've searched on the number I listed, and haven't found anything helpful. I also asked the ppl at Crutchfield but they have no info on it. Is there some good sites where I might find info on these factory components??

I found one site, but you have to pay 20 bucks just to ask them...blah!

Thanks!

 

GucciSock,

I had the same issue with the rear sub woof on my 2K EB,EXPY. I installed a Alpine power amp
and Alpine Eq, but wanted to keep the same head unit for now. "I liked the compression function on the factory head unit". My Eq has a seperate Sub Woof control output and I wanted to be able to control the factory sub from my Alpine EQ.
The prob. was, that I had a hard time finding a
wiring diagram that would show me where to hook everything up.
You dont need a new sub amp or speaker, just
wire the sub signal from the new head unit into the current factory sub system.
The color code should be the same as my 2K
EB EXPY.

If you or anybody else want this info let me know.



KingSwing

 

I do and I would like to know which wires are hooked up and if you have a pic

 

I have one of these from my old 99 Expedition I'd be interested in selling if you're interested in it. MTX Amplified ThunderForms 1997-2002 Ford Expedition, 1998-2002 Lincoln Navigator at Crutchfield.com

 

dont worry about the specs for the stock amp that you disconnected. look at the speaker and see what the specs are for it, and match an amp to it. also, an amp that says 100w max actually puts out 70 watts rms power, or average power. peak power is only reached for a millisecond or so.

 

Hi been looking for the diagram for the input plug for factory sub amp could u please post some thing ty