Hey, so I hooked a gauge to it at the dealer and it had about 20psi in the cooling system in about 15 mins, they have it all dis assembled and the head had to be planed. Hopefully I'll get it back before the weekend. Been the longest two weeks of my life in a loaner

 

Hey, so I hadn't heard from the dealer since last Friday, I stopped in on my way home from work to find out that the the block is worped and they recommend replacing it. Junk yard motor is 4300 plus install and praying that doesn't need head gaskets. Or a short block from ford is 10,320. Has anyone else has the block worp?

 

Quite unusual for the block warp, one can check the clearance to machine the block. Here is a video explaining some of this.

 

Hey,,, that looks familiar. Lol. I'm actually backwards blue printing that engine. It's on my stand as we speak (but we are loaded up n headed to eureka springs for the weekend). Ford remans SUK!!!!! I've got videos (plural) to prove it. One of those Pistons was at .035 protrusion. Another was .017. Wtf!!!! I'm gonna prob deck the block to match the protrusion. And prob gonna have to shave a couple Pistons. Of course this all depends on the rod specs once I tear it down the rest of the way. That truck came in as a no start,, I checked n cleared the regulator n pump,, then drove it for a couple days so I could vc-9 it and get the ec-1 in it and drive it. I actually gave the customer an option to drive it more then tear in once the issue becomes more pronounced. He said "nah,,, let's go ahead and yank it n go through it". Well,, we can definately oblige. Lol

Btw,, I've seen two blocks that I deemed no good. Replacement tho,,, that's just because they can't/won't rebuild it. All it needs is disassembled,, checked,, machined,,, reassembled. I use a .0015 feeler and give it about a 1 1/2" radius ( hope that makes sense).

 

I find it interesting the mechanic deemed the block warped, quite unusual for someone to be that thorough or they are using it for an out. I follow your videos Anthony and this one came in handy for an explanation.

 

Hey, so the mystery deepens. I've been on the phone all morning with the dealer and a few local engine shops on getting quotes. Last night they just told me it was worped and needed to be replaced. Now as I'm asking more questions the block is pitted and so that's why they say it should be replaced. And now they've added in one of the Pistons is cracked.... �� After work today I am going there to inspect it myself and see the crack and block pitting. This is a ford dealership doing the work. Everytime I talk to them they have something new or different to tell me. Is having a cracked piston common? Also another thing that bewilders me is the fact they sent the heads out to get planed days before they noticed the block was bad? In starting to think I am going to drag it home and remove what's left of the engine and get it rebuilt myself. Is there anyway to check how much has to get cut off the block without removing the engine?

 

No matter what you find, consult the machine shop you would do business with as to how they want to approach the block deck height to piston. If a piston is cracked that is life and yes it can happen, Ford offers over size pistons allowing boring of the cylinder walls.

You have options and Anthony ( run6.0run ) who posted here.

 

Thought about a short block?

 

Hey, I have been thinking about a short block. Ford price on it is $10k. Two of the close by machine shops would have to over haul my block. One said 2500-4000 and a week turn around. The other said 4000-6000 and he wanted to check the heads again.

 

That dealership may be $10K for a short block but they are not that much.
Give FICMrepair a call and have then get a quote for you. You may just be
very surprised at the price after the call.

Without knowing your VIN I came up with this from
Short Block for 2006 Ford F-350 Super Duty|3C3Z-6009-AARM

List Price: $5,443.48
You Save: $353.82 (6% off)
Sale Price: $5,089.66
Core Charge: $1,500.00

I can tell you that FICMrepair most times will be less do to the volume of sales that they do.

Also if you want to do the work you can do a full dress engine for.
$11,500 give or take a bit plus the core and shipping.
I got the full dress price by calling Whitebear and asking.




Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

There are options for a long block with APR studs for that price.

 

And I believe "stretch" is the wrong term in this context.
To achieve the clamping force the studs/bolts/etc. do "stretch".
ARP Studs are designed for "elastic" deformation - they RETURN to their original length once the load is removed. So an ARP stud can be re-used.

Stock TTY bolts have plastic deformation (do NOT return to their original length), so they "SHOULD" not be reused since their clamping force AFTER the first time is unreliable.

Bolting theory | Enerpac

 

Checking the protrusion will tell you how much you can cut off the block. .035 is the spec. .038 isn't a deal breaker,,, But much higher and you might regret it. The engine in th video above had a protrusion range of .032, to .017!!!! HUGE range!!! Let's think about this,,, you replace the shortblock because it's warped. What are they gonna do? They will disassemble it and cut it and rebuild and the next guy in line will buy it. Your block isn't trash. Btw,, cracked pistons are NOT common. Ford dealers do not build engines. I would suggest calling Asheville,, or finding a competent shop to take care of you.

 

Hey, I've contacted Asheville. Does anyone have experience with there Performance 20 package and the stage 2 cam? I'm leaning towards that package. Thanks Mike

 

I've heard of people saying the cam is good and no issues of their work.