So I'm doing an E-Fuel conversion on my 1995 F350 7.3 Powerstroke. Just wanted a few opions/ask a few questions before I pull the final trigger on some of the parts I'm going with.

So I'm doing a DIY E-Fuel Conversion by piecing together bits and pieces from others threads and how they did their DIY conversions.

Question #1 is about the supply/return lines past the tank selector. I know the return line is smaller from the factory but does it really matter? I was just going to buy some -6 AN braided fuel line in bulk to save some money and just use the -6 AN on the supply and return side. There wouldn't be an issue with doing this correct?

Question/Opion #2 is about the supply lines that run to the back of the heads. Basically my plan is as followed, use a 45 degree 1/8 NPT to -6 AN fitting on the passenger side head and run a 12" long pre-crimped -6 AN stainless braided line to a 3 way air connector with the correct adapter fitting. I was goind to run that line under the pedestal. For the Driver side head I was going to go with a 90 degree 1/8 NPT to -6 AN fitting to another 12" long pre-crimped -6 AN stainless braided line to the 3 way air connector with the correct adapter fitting. I was going to run this line however around the compressor housing and not under the pedistal like it did with the factory banjo bolt. Here's some pictures to kind of visualize all that.







I've seen guys both use hard fuel lines like the factory banjo bolt has running off itself and stainless braided as well. I know the Beans kit uses stainless braided to supply the heads in the rear so I'm assuming it's ok to use braided stainless lines as they are a reputable company and wouldn't be putting out a kit that uses them if they couldn't hold up to the heat....but still having that braided line that close to the turbo kind of worries me.

Was most likely going to change the fittings on the front of the motor as well to 1/8 NPT to -6 AN and run - 6 AN braided line up front as well because the regulator has -6 AN fittings on it as well and because the factory lines I have are looking brittle and dry rotted and rather replace them now while it's easy then have them go later down the road and cause a big mess.

That's about it, everything else I got figured out and ordered already but like I said my main concern is using the braided line that close to the turbo.

 

I did the thermo Tech heat tube.
3years and no issues. I too was worried but all is well.

 

Good to know! I'll look into the heat tube you mentioned, i was originally thinking spark plug wire insulation but just from a quick google that stuff looks like it would be the better bet.

 

Question about wiring in a low fuel pressure sensor...I want to wire it in so that it triggers the "water in fuel" light to come on in the dash...does anyone know what wires in the plug lead to that light? Is it safe to test by feeding 12v to each pin and seeing which one does it or do I risk blowing something or causing harm else where? Trying to get the wiring sorted out before I work on the intercooler piping so I don't have to back track.

 

i hate to say it but it won't likely work well. I ran mine out of fuel last weekend(don't ask:-( ) and my in cab gauge never flinched until the filters were empty and it was already much too late.

 

really?? Did you wire a fuel pressure sensor into the old fuel bowl "water in fuel" sensor like how I'm describing or have an actual aftermarket gauge and sending unit somewhere in line to monitor fuel pressure constantly inside the truck while you're driving?

 

I have a fuel pressure gauge in the fuel regulator block.

 

It should work

 

sender in the regulator. When it was mech pump it would give warning. Now with the efuel by the time it looses pressure if front at the regulator both filters are dry and its too late. Even with a rear tank full and switching immediately when it bucked I was on the side of the road 20min hoping it would clear back up. The gauge is accurate but no good IMO to use like you are hoping until its too late.

 

Jarrett I have a mechanical gauge in the regulator as well but just use it for tuning regulator and if need be diagnosing fuel issue.


Logically yes the sensor will no prevent you from running out of fuel. So long as there's fuel to pump it will and at a steady rate...once the fuel runs out and it's pumping air/fuel the pressure will drop and by then it's too late. My reasoning behind the sensor is to be able to tell if I have a major leak or pump is starting to fail not to keep me from running out of fuel. I always run to 1/4 tank the switch tanks anyways, never below 1/4 tank.

 

I have a gauge in my cab for the fuel pressure. It would probably do what you're wanting to do. I noticed when my fuel filters were starting to clog that I would loose pressure if I accelerated WOT. I would assume a failing pump would give the same symptom (if it gave a symptom at all.)