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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 11:18 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Jaime74656
Ok I know (and have read) about the coolant flushing and all that stuff, however what I want help with is which brand of coolant to go with?

I want to get the CAT -EC1 coolant, . . . reason I ask is I would like to have one coolant for all 4 cars (to minimize confusion of what "chemicals and additives" are needed for each one...

Granted the question was about EC1 . . . Am running Evans in my gasser and diesels without issues as I also am moving over to a single solution for the vehicles. Just make sure to do a thorough flush first.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 11:25 AM
  #17  
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I do plan to flush, and would love to find that single solution to use, 4 vehicles is difficult enough with out all the testing stuff…
 
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 05:35 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by pirschwagon
Don't believe all the "hype" about ELC's.
Well, you can argue against the facts if you want, but truth is truth and no matter how strongly you may feel, your opinions don't change any of the facts or truth about carboxylate-based OAT Extended Life Coolant being better than the Hybrid Ford "Gold" or the traditional "green" coolant.

Originally Posted by Stewart_H
I found it. I'll keep looking to see if he talks about it more, but here's one of his posts regarding water pump failures.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Guys, the advantage to the ELC where our water pump is concerned, is the fact it is silicate-free (and phosphate, borate, amine, and nitrate-free too).

Conventional ("green") coolants, G-05 coolants (like Ford's Gold), and SCA additive, all have those things. Of particular concern is the silicate. Over time, silicates become insoluble and drop out of the coolant as microscopic abrasives. Silicate is a relative of silica, or sand. With that in mind, understand that the water pump on the 7.3L is not like other diesel water pumps. Instead it has a seal that is constantly exposed to the coolant. The abrasive silicates eventually find their way between the water pump's seal and shaft, causing failure. Some of the other components also form abrasives and scale. For example phosphate (found in most SCA's) actually forms an abrasive scale when mixed with H2O. Again, HD ELC's are free of silicates and other non-desirable abrasives.

Lots of things can cause your water pump to fail...belt tension, poor craftsmanship, a contaminated cooling system, etc., but your water pump probably would've lasted longer had you immediately dumped the factory coolant when it was new, and used an ELC from the start. Installing a coolant filter isn't a bad idea either.

Other advantages to the HD ELC are present in the form of better cavitation and corrosion protection, particularly as time wears on, when other lesser coolants like the G-05 Gold and conventional "green" coolants must be flushed. Better heat transfer, less maintenance, longer life, and proven heavy duty use that meet the most strict standards in the industry are others.
Originally Posted by pirschwagon
Ford has a Broadcast Message (BROADCAST MESSAGE 2013-04-03 / DISTRIBUTION - "G" (All Service Centers)) saying RED ELC's require annual testing for SCA's now on all 6.0L and later Diesel Engines due to premature "package additive" failure.
If that's completely accurate, and Ford is referring to a carboxylate-based Heavy Duty Organic Acid Technology Extended Life Coolant like the Chevron Delo ELC that meets CAT EC-1 specs, then they are mistaken because the ELC coolants I've just defined DO NOT contain any silicates and DO NOT require Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCA's) because the cavitation protection isn't provided by SCA's and silicates.

The lack of SCA's in a HD OAT ELC is one reason a carboxylate-based coolant is better (and can be hyped) over the Ford "Gold" and the traditional "green."

You will ruin* a carboxylate-based ELC if a silicate package of SCA's is added to it.

Stewart

* - "Ruin" in this case means replacing the acid based cavitation protection provided by the ELC to a silicate based package, which the ELC as described here does not contain.
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Sep 2, 2016 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 05:47 PM
  #19  
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Stewart, All I can do is pass along the facts. I'm neither a chemical or mechanical engineer. I did retire in April of this year. And, things may have changed. I don't know. But, when we received instruction, we were expected to follow that instruction verbatim. That's all I'm saying. Here is a copy (Paste) of the B.M. Weather it refers to a GBC, OAT, HOAT, etc. I can't say from my own knowledge. Any argumentative issues are with Ford Engineers and not me. I apologize if it seems I have initiated anything inappropriate to the Forum. I think what it says here is not to add but replace the Anti-Freeze because it's not holding up under Diesel Condition (Heavy Duty Use):


BROADCAST MESSAGE 2013-04-03 / DISTRIBUTION - "G" (All Service Centers)
DIESEL COOLANT MAINTENANCE - SERVICE TIPS
Most 7.3L engines use Motorcraft Green Coolant although some model years were factory filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant (ELC) with Motorcraft Green coolant add Diesel Supplemental Coolant Additive every 15,000 miles Vehicles operated Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant under special conditions such as: sustained high speed driving at maximum GVWR load, towing a trailer, using a slide in camper (F-Super Duty) or car top carrier (E-Series) require Diesel Supplemental Coolant Additive every 15,000 miles.


The same procedure has been implemented for the 6.0L and 6.4L Powerstroke Diesels. Note: Use only Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant (ELC) in 6.0L & 6.4L Engines.
ACTION:
Motorcraft Green Coolant and Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant should be checked every 12 months / 15,000 miles for the necessary Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCA’s) necessary to prevent damage and failures when operation is: sustained high speed driving at maximum GVWR load, towing a trailer, using a slide in camper (F-Super Duty) or car top carrier.
Check and maintain the coolant strength (antifreeze and anticorrosion) and flush the cooling system using the recommended service procedures and frequencies detailed below.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Inspect the coolant color as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. If the coolant is not a clear or pale yellow color and has not had any coolant additive added, flush the cooling system and refill with a 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Coolant and distilled water.
2. Recommend measure coolant antifreeze strength. Measure the antifreeze strength following the recommended frequencies detailed in the chart below. A 50/50 mix provides protection to -34 °F (-36 °C), for operation below this level, refer to the applicable Owner Guide and WSM.
3. Recommend checking coolant anticorrosion strength. Check the anticorrosion strength (nitrite level) of the coolant using the Rotunda 3-Way HD Antifreeze Test Strip Kit part number 328-000011-800-Rotunda (768-8632) option 2 or equivalent. Perform coolant anticorrosion strength at the frequencies recommended.
NOTE FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE SERVICE PROCEDURE AS INDICATED CAN RESULT IN INACCURATE TEST RESULTS.
4. Instructions for coolant testing:
a. Start with clean, dry hands and utensils.
NOTE DO NOT COLLECT FROM THE COOLANT RECOVERY OR OVERFLOW SYSTEM. COOLANT MUST BE BETWEEN 50 °F AND 130 °F (10 °C 54 °C) WHEN TESTED. ROOM TEMPERATURE IS PREFERRED.
b. Collect coolant sample from the radiator or petcock.
c. Remove one strip from the bottle. Do not touch the pads on the end of the strip. Discard strip if nitrite test pad has turned brown.
d. Dip strip in coolant sample for one second, remove, and shake strip briskly to remove excess liquid.
NOTE FOR BEST RESULTS FOLLOW TEST TIMES CAREFULLY. USE A STOPWATCH OR CLOCK WITH A SWEEP SECOND HAND.
e. Wait 45 seconds but no longer than 75 seconds after dipping strip to compare and record results in the following order:
(1) Compare FREEZEPOINT (end pad) to color chart on bottle and record result.
(2) Compare NITRITE (end pad closest to handle) test to color chart on bottle.
(3) The middle pad is for MOLYBDATE which is not a performance measurement used in determining maintenance requirements for these applications.
f. It is okay to estimate a value between color blocks, but if uncertain about the color match, pick the lower numbered block, for example if nitrite color is between F and E, use column E.
5. Coolant test results:
a. If the nitrite level exceeds 800 parts per million (PPM), no action is required, anticorrosion strength meets specification.
b. If the nitrite level is between 300 PPM and 800 PPM, anticorrosion strength is low. Add 32 fluid ounces of Motorcraft(R) Diesel Cooling System Additive.
c. If nitrite level is less than 300 PPM, anticorrosion strength is very low and cannot be restored refer to Step 6.
6. Flush the cooling system and refill with 50/50 mix of Motorcraft(R) Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. A 50/50 mix of the Motorcraft(R) Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water provides the proper cooling system protection and nitrite level for operating temperatures to -34 °F (-36 °C).
6.0L: CAUTION DO NOT ADD MOTORCRAFT® DIESEL COOLING SYSTEM ADDITIVE WHEN REFILLING THE COOLING SYSTEM AFTER A COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH WITH MOTORCRAFT® ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IRON CLEANER. THIS MAY LEAD TO POSSIBLE ENGINE DAMAGE DUE TO VERY HIGH NITRITE LEVEL CONCENTRATIONS.
7. Verify pressure relief cap integrity by using the WSM, Section 303-03.
8. Follow recommended coolant service intervals: Perform the updated flush and fill procedures under the special operating conditions and frequencies recommended
Parts Block
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only - Not Warrantable
SUPPLIMENTAL INFORMATION TO ALL WSM's SECTION 303
 
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 06:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by pirschwagon
Weather it refers to a GBC, OAT, HOAT, etc. I can't say from my own knowledge.
Pirsch, thank you for posting that. The complete info you posted allows me to clear up your confusion.

The information in that Broadcast Message refers strictly to the traditional "green" coolant and the Ford "Gold" coolant, which is a Hybrid-OAT.

Nowhere in the message does the information or instructions refer to a Heavy Duty Organic Acid Technology Extended Life Coolant, or what some refer to as an OAT ELC.

When the message uses the acronym ELC, it is referring to the HOAT coolant, which both Ford and Prestone market as an ELC.

That's why you will usually see me take pains to define which coolant I'm talking about when I refer to ELC, so there is no confusion.

BROADCAST MESSAGE 2013-04-03 / DISTRIBUTION - "G" (All Service Centers)
DIESEL COOLANT MAINTENANCE - SERVICE TIPS
Most 7.3L engines use Motorcraft Green Coolant although some model years were factory filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant (ELC) with Motorcraft Green coolant add Diesel Supplemental Coolant Additive every 15,000 miles Vehicles operated Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant under special conditions such as: sustained high speed driving at maximum GVWR load, towing a trailer, using a slide in camper (F-Super Duty) or car top carrier (E-Series) require Diesel Supplemental Coolant Additive every 15,000 miles.


The same procedure has been implemented for the 6.0L and 6.4L Powerstroke Diesels. Note: Use only Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant (ELC) in 6.0L & 6.4L Engines.
ACTION:
Motorcraft Green Coolant and Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant should be checked every 12 months / 15,000 miles for the necessary Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCA’s) necessary to prevent damage and failures when operation is: sustained high speed driving at maximum GVWR load, towing a trailer, using a slide in camper (F-Super Duty) or car top carrier.
Check and maintain the coolant strength (antifreeze and anticorrosion) and flush the cooling system using the recommended service procedures and frequencies detailed below.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Inspect the coolant color as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. If the coolant is not a clear or pale yellow color and has not had any coolant additive added, flush the cooling system and refill with a 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Coolant and distilled water.
2. Recommend measure coolant antifreeze strength. Measure the antifreeze strength following the recommended frequencies detailed in the chart below. A 50/50 mix provides protection to -34 °F (-36 °C), for operation below this level, refer to the applicable Owner Guide and WSM.
3. Recommend checking coolant anticorrosion strength. Check the anticorrosion strength (nitrite level) of the coolant using the Rotunda 3-Way HD Antifreeze Test Strip Kit part number 328-000011-800-Rotunda (768-8632) option 2 or equivalent. Perform coolant anticorrosion strength at the frequencies recommended.
NOTE FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE SERVICE PROCEDURE AS INDICATED CAN RESULT IN INACCURATE TEST RESULTS.
4. Instructions for coolant testing:
a. Start with clean, dry hands and utensils.
NOTE DO NOT COLLECT FROM THE COOLANT RECOVERY OR OVERFLOW SYSTEM. COOLANT MUST BE BETWEEN 50 °F AND 130 °F (10 °C 54 °C) WHEN TESTED. ROOM TEMPERATURE IS PREFERRED.
b. Collect coolant sample from the radiator or petcock.
c. Remove one strip from the bottle. Do not touch the pads on the end of the strip. Discard strip if nitrite test pad has turned brown.
d. Dip strip in coolant sample for one second, remove, and shake strip briskly to remove excess liquid.
NOTE FOR BEST RESULTS FOLLOW TEST TIMES CAREFULLY. USE A STOPWATCH OR CLOCK WITH A SWEEP SECOND HAND.
e. Wait 45 seconds but no longer than 75 seconds after dipping strip to compare and record results in the following order:
(1) Compare FREEZEPOINT (end pad) to color chart on bottle and record result.
(2) Compare NITRITE (end pad closest to handle) test to color chart on bottle.
(3) The middle pad is for MOLYBDATE which is not a performance measurement used in determining maintenance requirements for these applications.
f. It is okay to estimate a value between color blocks, but if uncertain about the color match, pick the lower numbered block, for example if nitrite color is between F and E, use column E.
5. Coolant test results:
a. If the nitrite level exceeds 800 parts per million (PPM), no action is required, anticorrosion strength meets specification.
b. If the nitrite level is between 300 PPM and 800 PPM, anticorrosion strength is low. Add 32 fluid ounces of Motorcraft(R) Diesel Cooling System Additive.
c. If nitrite level is less than 300 PPM, anticorrosion strength is very low and cannot be restored refer to Step 6.
6. Flush the cooling system and refill with 50/50 mix of Motorcraft(R) Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. A 50/50 mix of the Motorcraft(R) Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water provides the proper cooling system protection and nitrite level for operating temperatures to -34 °F (-36 °C).
6.0L: CAUTION DO NOT ADD MOTORCRAFT® DIESEL COOLING SYSTEM ADDITIVE WHEN REFILLING THE COOLING SYSTEM AFTER A COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH WITH MOTORCRAFT® ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IRON CLEANER. THIS MAY LEAD TO POSSIBLE ENGINE DAMAGE DUE TO VERY HIGH NITRITE LEVEL CONCENTRATIONS.
7. Verify pressure relief cap integrity by using the WSM, Section 303-03.
8. Follow recommended coolant service intervals: Perform the updated flush and fill procedures under the special operating conditions and frequencies recommended
Parts Block
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only - Not Warrantable
SUPPLIMENTAL INFORMATION TO ALL WSM's SECTION 303
Every instruction listed there, and every test, only applies to the traditional "green" coolant and the Hybrid OAT Ford "Gold" labeled as Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant.

None of it applies to the most times "red" colored coolant labeled as a HD OAT Extended Life Coolant.

In fact, the information contained in that Broadcast Message is much more specific, but it was something already referenced by Gooch back in the original thread I posted in 2010.

Originally Posted by Stewart_H
The following is an excerpt from a thread regarding questions that arose in the thread, where Gooch...

(quoted post edited to only list the following info)

"The Gold coolant contains conventional (green coolant) components like silicate, which eventually form microscopic abrasives that eat water pump seals. It provides a lower level of cavitation protection using traditional SCA's like Nitrite, it has a shorter life, it reduces heat transfer compared to HD ELC's, and it in fact does require testing and SCA maintenance if you are an enthusiast about protecting your engine. In fact Ford recommends you add SCA to the Gold in certain F-Series applications. Caterpillar and John Deere also recommend adding SCA if it is going to be used in their diesels."
Thanks for posting that so I could clear up the confusion.

Stewart
 

Last edited by Stewart_H; Aug 11, 2020 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 07:48 PM
  #21  
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Well I was wanting to change to the non green stuff so I don't have to worry about "did I add the correct SCA, or was that enough or did I need more?" type situations....I would like to pour in and be done IF I can...and partly because I am not sure if my truck has the correct stuff added in already (almost certain it won't...)
 
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Old Sep 3, 2016 | 01:37 AM
  #22  
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Early on when I got the truck I checked test strips on my gold coolant it looked awful! I added the VC8. Then I realized I was holding the test strip upside-down when comparing to the chart. D'oh! All tests since look great for SCAs. Gold coolant hardly needs it.

I think your "born on" date indicates an early 99, so ELC is not compatible with your cup sealant.
 
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