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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 08:05 PM
  #16  
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
Originally Posted by Ford_Six
Actually, because there are three mounts on each side, the failure of the middle mount will cause the cab to settle. The inner fenders are quite hefty braces transferring weight to the radiator support mounts, while the cab structure itself transfers the weight to the rear mount. Trucks that lose the strength of the inner fender don't do this, but then the bump line turns into a really shallow vee and the panel gap between the fender and door becomes uneven (wider at the bottom than the top). My truck did this on the passenger side, the rear of the cab was sat lower on that side. The inner fender was under quite a bit of tension when I released the three bolts at the firewall.
Right!

The cab doesn't get heavier, but the weight is doubled (or so) on the rear mount because the front is no longer supporting it.

You have two legs. Stand on both, then on one. The weight on your 1 leg has now more than doubled because it is not only supporting its half, but the half of the other leg, as well as the second leg itself. But you didn't gain any weight... Same thing here with the cab mounts.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 08:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
Right!

The cab doesn't get heavier, but the weight is doubled (or so) on the rear mount because the front is no longer supporting it.

You have two legs. Stand on both, then on one. The weight on your 1 leg has now more than doubled because it is not only supporting its half, but the half of the other leg, as well as the second leg itself. But you didn't gain any weight... Same thing here with the cab mounts.
Lemme try that... OMG! It's true!!!

Gravity is working!!!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 08:27 PM
  #18  
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Good one HIO now for your main event try it doing a handstand, with a double twist and pike for the gold medal. Maybe not. Just read the line "gravity is working"
 
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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 08:31 PM
  #19  
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Well, yeah; now that I think about the front mount just floating in air, yes, your right. More pressure is applied to the rear mount. So in this case is the passenger side perch blown out?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 08:34 PM
  #20  
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Rust cancer is rife. Serious body work magic done by some FTE members restores these beauties to their former glory. Sometimes regardless of after market products.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 10:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by f100today
Well, yeah; now that I think about the front mount just floating in air, yes, your right. More pressure is applied to the rear mount. So in this case is the passenger side perch blown out?
I'll look in the morning. Spent the night wrestling the running board off the drivers side. The passenger has a stripped phillips screw, take the sawzall to it tomorrow. Got one spare tire carrier off before the cutoff wheel exploded. Going to get a new master cylinder in the morning at NAPA.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 12:14 PM
  #22  
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Aftermarket cab mounts are available so it can be repaired. However, it may be cheaper and easier to track down another cab or complete truck.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 06:16 PM
  #23  
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Passenger side. It's rusted but I don't know if it collapsed????

 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 06:25 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Arnold Kenyon
Passenger side. It's rusted but I don't know if it is collapsed.g[/IMG]
That one is still largely intact. But look at them cracks!!! That zit is ready to pop!

Better order another one of them cab mounts!

You wouldn't happen to know how to weld would ya? It'd be cheaper cuz yer gonna pay a shop rate anywhere from $70 to $90 per hour.. A welding machine would pay for itslef real quick.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 06:33 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
That one is still largely intact. But look at them cracks!!! That zit is ready to pop!

Better order another one of them cab mounts!

You wouldn't happen to know how to weld would ya? It'd be cheaper cuz yer gonna pay a shop rate anywhere from $70 to $90 per hour.. A welding machine would pay for itslef real quick.
Yep, I know how to weld. my family had an irrigation company so I was blessed enough to learn how weld aluminum with TIG. Looked at mounts at DC will have to order them up. I need to buy a welder, just don't know if I want a TIG stick or TIG/MIG unit. Money, money, money.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 06:36 PM
  #26  
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
If the floorboards are rusty, you need to replace those first, as the mounts weld to the floor board. Putting a new mount on a rusty base won't go over very well.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 09:12 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Arnold Kenyon
Yep, I know how to weld. my family had an irrigation company so I was blessed enough to learn how weld aluminum with TIG. Looked at mounts at DC will have to order them up. I need to buy a welder, just don't know if I want a TIG stick or TIG/MIG unit. Money, money, money.
Awesome.

The ESAB Rebel is an interesting machine... alas I already have a Miller 140, 211, and a Diversion 180 TIG.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 10:52 PM
  #28  
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Not looking good for the supports.

Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
If the floorboards are rusty, you need to replace those first, as the mounts weld to the floor board. Putting a new mount on a rusty base won't go over very well.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 11:04 PM
  #29  
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Mmmm.... like a rotting onion.

Be best to to a stem to stern evaluation to understand the breadth of your undertaking.... and the potential costs of time, money, and effort it will require. .. but at least your already ahead by knowing how to burn metal.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 11:11 PM
  #30  
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Also check for rot at the two radiator supports at the front of the frame.
 
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