Engine Braking
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 75
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From: NE Okla.
Engine Braking
This has been the second year our family took the Excursion to Colorado on vacation.
It's an 05 V10.
The issue is engine braking.
The V10 just won't hold the big truck back going down those passes using my gears.
I can drop it into first and it will buzz the motor pretty quickly.
These V10's just don't have the back pressure I need.
(The motor has around 100k, excellent condition, used no oil.)
Any suggestions?
It's an 05 V10.
The issue is engine braking.
The V10 just won't hold the big truck back going down those passes using my gears.
I can drop it into first and it will buzz the motor pretty quickly.
These V10's just don't have the back pressure I need.
(The motor has around 100k, excellent condition, used no oil.)
Any suggestions?
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 351
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From: South Texas/RGV
1st gear won't hold it back or you don't want to use 1st gear? If there is no load on the engine as long as you have oil pressure an engine can handle very high RPMs with no problems. If you actually have it in first gear then either something is slipping (I would suspect the torque converter because the transmission would be detectable while driving, especially in the hills) or you are losing vacuum/pressure in the engine. An engine problem would normally be detectable by oil loss, running rough, or poor mileage.
I would test the torque converter first, then if that fine do a vacuum test on the engine.
I would test the torque converter first, then if that fine do a vacuum test on the engine.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 75
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From: NE Okla.
Gene, I use first gear and the engine is trying to hold the big truck back but I'll spin 4000RPM+ pretty easy.
Probably the high altitude adds to the problem.
You'd think engine back pressure at 4k RPM would be enough to hold her back.
Motor and tranny/TC are in excellent condition BTW.
Probably the high altitude adds to the problem.
You'd think engine back pressure at 4k RPM would be enough to hold her back.
Motor and tranny/TC are in excellent condition BTW.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,595
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You don't exactly have a ton of compression either, which contributes a lot to engine braking. Other than incorporating an exhaust brake, which I don't even know if that's feasible on a gasser, I don't think you're going to be picking up much other engine braking.
You may be able to wire in a toggle for converter lock up. IIRC, whenever you start coasting I believe the converter unlocks. By installing a switch it should lock the converter when you flip it, regardless of whatever gear you're in.
You may be able to wire in a toggle for converter lock up. IIRC, whenever you start coasting I believe the converter unlocks. By installing a switch it should lock the converter when you flip it, regardless of whatever gear you're in.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
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From: SE Florida
If you need more braking you may need to change the axle ratio to a higher number. That will increase your engine braking.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 121
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From: Kennewick, WA
Yes, you can put in a converter lock up switch. It will help, but not as much as you might expect!! I have done this and use it to both help with temps on climbs and on downhills.
We tow in the mountains regularly, maybe not as high as in CO (up to aboot 7000'), but have found that you just can't go downhill at hwy speeds without using the brakes!! Our trailer is around 9200 lbs loaded, and it can be controlled well with the transmission and necc braking in the 50 - 55 mph range very comfortably. Faster, it can get out of control very easily!!!
Considering going to 4.30 or 4.56 gearing which may be helpful with downhill as well as up. 3.73's seem to be the poor choice (usually not asked for since we can't order our Ex's) for both up and down with a good load.
If you are towing, I recommend setting the braking on the trailer higher than flat land and using it as a retarder with light braking, taking some of the load off of the Ex's brakes until really needed. I would rather have hot trailer brakes than fading tow vehicle brakes on a long downhill. Just my personal way of going up and down!!!
We tow in the mountains regularly, maybe not as high as in CO (up to aboot 7000'), but have found that you just can't go downhill at hwy speeds without using the brakes!! Our trailer is around 9200 lbs loaded, and it can be controlled well with the transmission and necc braking in the 50 - 55 mph range very comfortably. Faster, it can get out of control very easily!!!
Considering going to 4.30 or 4.56 gearing which may be helpful with downhill as well as up. 3.73's seem to be the poor choice (usually not asked for since we can't order our Ex's) for both up and down with a good load.
If you are towing, I recommend setting the braking on the trailer higher than flat land and using it as a retarder with light braking, taking some of the load off of the Ex's brakes until really needed. I would rather have hot trailer brakes than fading tow vehicle brakes on a long downhill. Just my personal way of going up and down!!!
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Senior User
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From: South Texas/RGV
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Slipping more than normally.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 75
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From: NE Okla.
I'm towing a 12' utility trailer with an ATV.
Also running EBC green stuff pads.
They get toasty if I'm not careful.
My feeling all along has been the high gears are the real problem.
Seeing/hearing 4k RPM is something I'm not used to.
But if the 6.8L is OK with it, I'm game.
Thanks everyone for the great discussion/recommendations .
Also running EBC green stuff pads.
They get toasty if I'm not careful.
My feeling all along has been the high gears are the real problem.
Seeing/hearing 4k RPM is something I'm not used to.
But if the 6.8L is OK with it, I'm game.
Thanks everyone for the great discussion/recommendations .
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