I got the message on the way to work this morning. I have 13k on the truck. After searching I have come to the conclusion that I need the following kits:


Ford Rotunda 328-2050
Ford Rotunda 328-071ELC


Couple questions:
1. Are there aftermarket kits that will perform the same tests?
2. Is Acustrip.com the best place to get these kits?
3. So I do the tests pulling samples from the pet***** of both cooling systems and all tests come back good. Do I need to add any antifreeze for the amount pulled for the test?


Thanks!

 

328-2050

I am going to use the NAPA 4106 with price of $17.99. Your local NAPA can order it for you or you can find it on eBay. This test for Nitrates only on the 6.7L. Same strips used on the 7.3L also

328-071ELC

1. I know of no ELC test kit besides the Acustrip which packages it for Ford. I have been trying to locate it at other sources but no luck.

2. I just ordered the 328-071ELC from Acustrip. You can get from the Ford Rotunda website also but I think the price will be higher with shipping and possible sales tax. Rotunda list it is for $62.00.

3. The Ford Workshop DVD says to pour the sample back into the system. I will post later but think the procedure only pulls sample from secondary cooling system.

 

Here is the procedure from the 2016 Ford Service DVD. Procedure doesn't state which system, so, maybe one needs to test both?

I posted the same procedure on this website in the PDF format. Might be easier to read or print.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...l#post13988841

 

at 13k miles? isnt that real early to see that kind of message?
Fert

 

Hi Fert! I experienced the Coolant Check at 13,000 miles like the OP (on my 2016). After living through a 6.0, I don't touch this engine-took it to the dealer, and was assured (after they did the check) that there was no issue. I only found one thread regarding early coolant checks on this forum, as I remember it, and it was not recent.

 

I had mine checked at the dealer at 15k miles. he checked the main resevoir and said it was good. i figure it is the best $10 i could spend on the motor at the time.
Fert

 

From reading on other forums most state to not test in the reservoir but to take a sample from the petcock on the bottom of the radiator. Any thoughts? I looked up a video on youtube and it has a Ford A mechanic performing the test at the reservoir.

 

If you read through what I posted above, it tells you were to take the sample....

NOTE: If the cooling system has been drained due to a repair, fill a clear, clean approximately 1 L or 1 qt container with coolant from the drain pan. If the coolant has not been drained from the cooling system, open the radiator draincock to fill a clear, clean approximately 1 L or 1 qt container with coolant.

 

I had the message to check it at a little over 13,000.

 

I just got around 14K on mine and seen this message. Is it the end of the world if I wait for a couple weeks and a couple more K miles before I get it checked ?? short on time and a big road trip coming up.


Cheers SteveP

 

I wouldn't think so. When I was doing research on it here, it seemed like almost nobody needed additive added on this initial check.

 

I am a new owner of a 2016 DRW and my new hobby is reading the Owners Manual, its nice and thick. I see on page 69 of the DIESEL supplement "Frequent Low Speed Operation" it says to flush the Coolant every 60000 miles and don't add engine coolant additive. That seems to imply you don't need the additive if you flush frequently. So why check your coolant at 13K miles?

 

The supplement also has this on page 48 & 49.

Checking Coolant Corrosion Inhibitor Additive Strength
At specific mileage intervals of 15000 miles (24000 km), as listed in the scheduled maintenance information chapter, the coolant corrosion inhibitor additive should be checked. The optional information display, if equipped, will also display the message CHECK COOLANT ADDITIVE at this time. The purpose of checking is to verify the correct engine coolant concentration (freeze point protection) and corrosion inhibitor additive level (strength) of the coolant for maximum engine performance and protection.

It also has this on page 49.

Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant Revitalizer – Additive to boost the corrosion inhibitor level based upon the test results of the Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit. The Revitalizer may be added two times over the life of the coolant. If additional dosages are required, the cooling system must be flushed and refilled per the instructions in the Workshop Manual.

So, even if you are following the schedule for one of the listed "Special Operating Conditions" & changing out the coolant every 60,000 miles, you should be checking the coolant for corrosion inhibitor & freeze point.

 

Only been a case or two that I know of that the 12k - 15k test came back bad and there was a previously unknown mechanical issue with the truck. (which is why you test). Coolant had oil in it on the one I definitely know about. The other 99.9% of us the coolant is great for at least the first few tests.

Some dealers will do the test for free, because they want you to come in, and know if there is an issue you will pay them to fix it.

As a side note -- I may flush my truck myself this winter and refill with a 60% coolant to 40% distilled water ratio, I live in cold country and the dealer won't do anything but 50/50. Looking at that chart, 60% is where I need to me, considering areas I venture to have hit -60F before. And yes, I asked. I suppose if I went to a Fairbanks dealer they would do it, but Anchorage dealers won't. I guess they don't think that you ever leave the Anchorage bowl...

 

I had a VW diesel years ago and never had the maintenance issues I do with my new 2016 F-250. My Check Coolant Additive light went on at 12,500 miles (I have 12,900 miles on it)...just after our temps dipped down into the teens. I went to local auto stores looking for the test kits but no one carried them. Glad to see that I found answers to some questions on this forum.

I hesitate to take my vehicle to the Ford dealers in my area due to their high $$ for any type of work. (I choked at a $147 oil change!). I don't trust that they would give me a straight answer due to my gender. But at the same time, I feel a bit like a fish out of water when it comes to working on my truck.