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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

AC Compressor Seizing

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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 05:56 PM
  #1  
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AC Compressor Seizing

So I just got done with my first 2 problems of the month with this truck last week. Front end and emissions along with spark plugs. All in, I lost $3000 dollars to that. Now, 4 days later this morning, I'm driving the truck trying enjoy the investment, and the AC compressor starts seizing up and burning the clutch. Unrelated but also worth noting, about an hour later the brake pedal gets real soft and the brakes get really sloppy at stopping the truck. The truck also stalled (auto trans) crossing a highway, luckily it was 5am and no traffic was coming.

I'm at $6k invested on a truck with 116,000 miles, and I've only put 6,000 on it. The repairs don't stop, and I've got many more ahead. Like rear suspension, axle, trans, and radiator fluids, and paint, to name a few.


Any suggestions on fixing the AC before I drive this truck into a lake?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 06:35 PM
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You should unplug the compressor clutch till you get it fixed,,,, if it is just the clutch this will keep it from tearing up belt and keep it from shelling out the bearing and maybe causing radiator damage. If it is clutch only it can be replaced,,,if not you will have to invest in a new or used compressor. What year and engine is this ???? All details help in trouble shooting .
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by spooktn
You should unplug the compressor clutch till you get it fixed,,,, if it is just the clutch this will keep it from tearing up belt and keep it from shelling out the bearing and maybe causing radiator damage. If it is clutch only it can be replaced,,,if not you will have to invest in a new or used compressor. What year and engine is this ???? All details help in trouble shooting .
. 99 2.5L XLT. This was the hottest day of the year here so far too, so it's very convenient.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 08:31 PM
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When you say it is seizing do you mean locking up and burning the belt????? or is it just spinning then stop spinning then spin again ????
 
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by spooktn
When you say it is seizing do you mean locking up and burning the belt????? or is it just spinning then stop spinning then spin again ????
. It's locking up and burning the clutch on the compressor. It's appears to be spinning slower than the pulley however when it does finally engage so I'm pretty sure the clutch is getting ruined because I drove with the AC on today despite the problem. I'm a little past frustrated with the truck right now so I kinda don't care what it wants now. Its probably not getting what it asks for now unless it's really cheap so.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 09:28 AM
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Compressors in most cases last the life of the vehicle. Failure is caused by lack of lube in most cases. There was a problem with Rangers(and others) where the teflon-coated pistons would lose their teflon, and start to wear creating aluminum 'pudding' which blocked refrigerant flow.
The refrigerant mixes with the oil used to lube the compressor, and low refrigerant would limit the lube carried around. That is not good. The pistons start to get hot, and wear the piston and the bore, leading to poor compressor performance(low pressure).
Try turning the center hub of the compressor by hand. It should turn smoothly, with some resistance, more if you spin it fast enough to build pressure. If it turns smoothly, I would be checking that the clutch gap is correct, the clutch bearing good, and the belt properly tensioned. If it does not turn smoothly, disconnect the clutch wire as all you are doing is risking complete lock-up, belt tearing and a tow bill from where it happens...

You can check compressor performance with a gauge set. The low pressure side should be 'balanced' with the high pressure side before the system is engaged. Once engaged, the low should drop into the 20's and the high should go into the 200's. If the low gets too low, the LPCO will cut the clutch power. If the hight gets too high, the HPCO will cut the clutch power. Take readings, ambient temp, 'after' radiator air temp, and center outlet temp, system on full blast, doors wide open. If you do all that, and tell ... system general condition can be obtained...
tom
 
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tomw
Compressors in most cases last the life of the vehicle. Failure is caused by lack of lube in most cases. There was a problem with Rangers(and others) where the teflon-coated pistons would lose their teflon, and start to wear creating aluminum 'pudding' which blocked refrigerant flow. The refrigerant mixes with the oil used to lube the compressor, and low refrigerant would limit the lube carried around. That is not good. The pistons start to get hot, and wear the piston and the bore, leading to poor compressor performance(low pressure). Try turning the center hub of the compressor by hand. It should turn smoothly, with some resistance, more if you spin it fast enough to build pressure. If it turns smoothly, I would be checking that the clutch gap is correct, the clutch bearing good, and the belt properly tensioned. If it does not turn smoothly, disconnect the clutch wire as all you are doing is risking complete lock-up, belt tearing and a tow bill from where it happens... You can check compressor performance with a gauge set. The low pressure side should be 'balanced' with the high pressure side before the system is engaged. Once engaged, the low should drop into the 20's and the high should go into the 200's. If the low gets too low, the LPCO will cut the clutch power. If the hight gets too high, the HPCO will cut the clutch power. Take readings, ambient temp, 'after' radiator air temp, and center outlet temp, system on full blast, doors wide open. If you do all that, and tell ... system general condition can be obtained... tom
It doesn't turn smoothly by hand. Will this "pudding" result in the whole system needing replacement?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 07:50 AM
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If the compressor itself is seizing up, then it's basically grinding itself up inside and sending metal shavings throughout the whole system. You'll have to thoroughly flush out all lines/hoses and the evaporator, and REPLACE the condenser. The condenser has so many small passages where metal shavings can get stuck, you'll basically never get them all out by flushing. So it's best to just replace it with a new one. Also replace the accumulator and orifice tube.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2016 | 12:51 AM
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Okay, so it doesn't get any better than this. Since my brakes on the rear failed, my parking brake no longer works. I park on a hill so that's a problem, which I resolve by turning the wheel away from the curb. I get in the truck tonight to start it, and it's rolled back so that it's impossible to turn the key. I'm parked towards a wall so all I can think of is to push it with something strong. What a pain this truck has been. I'm get stranded by this truck for the third time and last time.
 
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