Fat Man IFS
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Fat Man IFS
I have a 68 swb f100, 390 engine that's in the process of restoration. Getting rid of the twin I beam suspension for an IFS. Was considering the Fat Man Mustang II kit. Has anyone used their products ? I know they are pricey, but my Dad bought this truck new in 68 and gave it to me in '72, so I want to do right by it.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
I have a 68 swb f100, 390 engine that's in the process of restoration. Getting rid of the twin I beam suspension for an IFS. Was considering the Fat Man Mustang II kit. Has anyone used their products ? I know they are pricey, but my Dad bought this truck new in 68 and gave it to me in '72, so I want to do right by it.
A better value is to go with the 2003-2012 Crown Victoria subframe. Links in the Tech Info Compilation sticky marked as "Read First" on the front page of this forum... or use the link in my signature.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
Most will modify the stock stands to mount to the CV pedestals. Read through the CV retrofit links for details......
You're equipped to fab and weld, right?
You're equipped to fab and weld, right?
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Joined: Sep 2015
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just put a fatman in my 67 about 2 months ago.my truck also has the 390 and if you go with the fatman get you a set of their tublur motor mounts also.they work great and leave plenty of room for everything. I love mine. A couple of guys here local used the crown vic and from looking at theirs and talking with them, because of the track width of the CV they say there is issues with turning radius and fender rub and the only wheels they can use have to have no outside offset. very limited selection of useable wheels.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: DFW Texas
There is only one downfall to the CV swap and that is it limits you to how low it will go and what wheel choice/backspace you need to use so the wheels won't rub. With the mustang II you will get it much lower, the track width will match the original 9 inch, the wheels will tuck in the wheel well a lot better without rubbing issues, and there are endless brake, control arm, shock, coil spring, coil over, airbag, and spindle combinations. I would go pick up a classic trucks magazine as well as a street rodder magazine and look at all the companies out there that make MII type front suspensions. Fat man may not be the best choice of all of them. I like Scotts and I think Total cost involved which both have larger more heavy duty control arms.
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: NE Colorado plains
Check out pre-86 Jaguar XJ6 front ends.
Much like the CrownVic swap, they unbolt off the donor with four bolts, come with rack and pinion, good 4 piston calipers, chevy bolt pattern 5x4 3/4, the correct track width, parts are easy to source, there is lots of swap info on the net, bolt in or weld in and best of all, they are CHEAP!
Because of the narrow track width you can go as low as you want and common bolt pattern opens you up to ANY wheel you want.
Rides and steers really nice.....
Much like the CrownVic swap, they unbolt off the donor with four bolts, come with rack and pinion, good 4 piston calipers, chevy bolt pattern 5x4 3/4, the correct track width, parts are easy to source, there is lots of swap info on the net, bolt in or weld in and best of all, they are CHEAP!
Because of the narrow track width you can go as low as you want and common bolt pattern opens you up to ANY wheel you want.
Rides and steers really nice.....
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,371
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From: PA
Good thread be nice to see some other setups people went with on these trucks. Been gathering ideas for my next truck build. Ive always been a fan of the Mustang II suspensions over the CV swaps for those couple reasons F100today mentioned. is anyone making a heavy duty mustang II suspension yet to handle the weight of a diesel? Or is the only choice to do it yourself and reinforce an existing product?
Your truck has a great stance. What kind of rear suspension setup did you go with?
Check out pre-86 Jaguar XJ6 front ends.
Much like the CrownVic swap, they unbolt off the donor with four bolts, come with rack and pinion, good 4 piston calipers, chevy bolt pattern 5x4 3/4, the correct track width, parts are easy to source, there is lots of swap info on the net, bolt in or weld in and best of all, they are CHEAP!
Because of the narrow track width you can go as low as you want and common bolt pattern opens you up to ANY wheel you want.
Rides and steers really nice.....
Much like the CrownVic swap, they unbolt off the donor with four bolts, come with rack and pinion, good 4 piston calipers, chevy bolt pattern 5x4 3/4, the correct track width, parts are easy to source, there is lots of swap info on the net, bolt in or weld in and best of all, they are CHEAP!
Because of the narrow track width you can go as low as you want and common bolt pattern opens you up to ANY wheel you want.
Rides and steers really nice.....
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 69
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From: NE Colorado plains
Thanks Guys!
The rear is just a simple and cheap explorer 8.8 w/ 4.11posi & discs on stock leafs.
I really wanted to use the IRS out of my parts Jag and it fit in there really slick, but it has 2.70 gears and swapping gears was cost prohibitive....
The rear is just a simple and cheap explorer 8.8 w/ 4.11posi & discs on stock leafs.
I really wanted to use the IRS out of my parts Jag and it fit in there really slick, but it has 2.70 gears and swapping gears was cost prohibitive....
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: DFW Texas
Yes, a few companies like Scotts hot rods and some others. They kinda MII hybrids. And typically expensive......$2500 min to 5K.
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Joelb114 your truck sit's great. Mine sits this low in the front with the MII but not as low as yours in the rear.I've only driven mine in the driveway so far because i'm just getting everything back together.I have a couple questions 1.On the front do you have any issues with the thread part of your tire sometimes rubbing the inner fenderwell when you hit a bad dip or bump in the road or did you cut some of the inner fender out above the tire ? 2.what did you do to keep the top of your rearend center from bottoming out against the bed floor ? I made my "C" notch ikt and removed a spring,but i would like to go a little lower but i think it might not leave me enough travel to keep it from bottoming out against the bottom of the bed floor. Thanks