OK, this is *really* frustrating and I'd be happy to pay for anybody's help with this who is an expert in the field. About 2 years ago, after only using the truck a few months, I couldn't start her. I thought it may be a relay and went through all the under-dash relays but was also curious if this could be a remote starter wiring related problem, since I have no clue on these systems. I eventually pulled the starter relay (see this thread for pics https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-to-start.html ) and have managed to jump the truck like that ever since then. Suddenly today it is a no go, will not start no matter what I try. I did try pulling and reinstalling the pcm relay as suggested by Chris F350-6 in that earlier thread, but it did nothing. Could it be a problem with my DP Tuner?? Pretty PLEASE with sprinkles on top, let me know if you can help with this. I'd love nothing more than to be able to turn the key and start my truck today.

Thanks.

 

Have not read your other thread. However you need to pull any trouble codes to at leasthave some sort of starting point, otherwise you are shooting in the dark. Many more ways to do this than just a couple of years ago. Some are not expensive at all, especially compared to the dealer.

 

Whenever trouble shooting it is best to pull the tuner, that leaves one thing out of the mix.

 

Pulling codes are not an option, at least today. I called both the mechanics that I know might have a scan tool here and they do not. Kicking myself for not buying one sooner. I thought his problem began before the tuner was ever installed but now I am not so sure, so trying to confirm the timeline. Is pulling the pcm and removing the plug the only way to properly bypass, or disconnect the dp? It'd be great if there was a way to bypass it without going through that.

Thanks for the responses so far.

 

Are you saying the truck is will not even crank over?
Have you tried climbing underneath and jumping the starter?

 

Let's check some fuses. In particular, fuses #31, #103 and #113. Check them with a meter to verify that they're all good (continuity/ohms). According to the wiring diagram, fuses 113 and 103 should have 12 volts supplied to them at all times, and #31 should have 12 volts when the ignition is turned to start.

If the fuses check out as good and have power when they're supposed to, check whether the starter will engage when power is sent directly to the solenoid. On the right side, there will be a round, single pole connector with a yellow wire. Separate the connector by squeezing the sides of it and pulling the two halves apart. The side that has the male pin in it is the wire to the starter solenoid. Take that connector and touch the pin to the bolt sticking up from the positive battery terminal clamp. The starter should engage. This should (obviously) be done with the key off. Watch the video below to see what I'm talking about.

EDIT: Actually, you may want to do this first to rule out a bad starter . . .

 

OK, I just checked fuse #31 and it's fine. In the meantime I went and tested the starter (I did this when the problem first occurred, in fact I removed it and bench tested it a couple of times) which was fine. I have an important meeting in the morning so I ran a temporary wire from the solenoid up through the firewall so I can start my truck tomorrow without rolling underneath it. I will check the voltage on key tomorrow afternoon after work but where will I find #113 and #130? I do not see those on the diagram I have here.

Thanks for the help.

 

They're in the fuse panel near the steering column. There might be a diagram on the cover, or inside it. If not, you can download an owner's manual from Ford. Just Google "2002 F350 owner's manual" and one of the first few results should be for owner.ford.com.

 

I've looked at about a dozen pages and not seen anything that is higher than F.48. I'll keep looking though, thanks.

 

What's your build date, and was that truck built for the American market or a different market?

 

Here's a PDF diagram of the fuse panel from the 2002 Owners Manual.

 

That is what I would do in an urgent situation.

 

OK, thanks David, that's the diagram I was missing. That makes a lot more sense than the diagrams and descriptions I was seeing. Those fuses, 113 & 103 are good too so I guess I will get the tester on the contacts tomorrow and make sure I get the results Pikachu was saying I should have. Thanks to everyone who's answered so far, hopefully we can figger this thang out for once and for all. All your input is appreciated.

 

OK, so the fuses #103 & 113 are good and I have voltage in the receptacles all the time so there's apparently no problem there. The starter and solenid are good, I now have a wire running from the S terminal to my relay (R-307) where I have hot in the top term so using that to start her now, so the problem still must be between the relay and the starter, *I think*.
Really appreciate the help with this guys, I'm on a mission to sort this out now.

 

So you do have +12v to fuse 31 when the key is turned to start? If that's the case, check to make sure you also have +12v at the socket that corresponds to pin 86 for the starter relay when the key is turned to start. The socket for pin 85 for the starter relay should have continuity to chassis ground. If you don't get +12v on socket 86, I'd suspect the DTR (digital transmission range) sensor is bad/misadjusted or the wiring to it is a problem.