My Ford F250 powerstroke 7.3L won't start it cranking but still no sign to start?
#1
My Ford F250 powerstroke 7.3L won't start it cranking but still no sign to start?
Any one can help me my F250 powerstroke 7.3L won't start ill try to the electrician to check it he said there is no electric power going to the injector solenoid also no smoke coming out i dunno but he want me to buy new injector? What do you think i could do if that electrician is correct before i buy the injector?
#3
I've had a similar sounding problem for the past 6 months or so. I found that removing the relay (top right) under the steering column and jumping it gets the truck started. The relay is good and I can change it out with others and have the same problem so it isn't a bad relay but no idea what it is. I was checking back here for answers . See if this is the same for you..... here is a pic of where I jump it......
#5
Welcome to FTE jepoycat. What country are you from? What year is your truck?
The electrician is wrong. No power going to the injector does not mean you have a bad solenoid most of the time. If you did have one bad solenoid, it would shut down that bank of cylinders and keep power from going to them, but the other side would still run, and the truck will still start if you only have 4 cylinders working. If you unplug the bad solenoid, then the other 7 injectors will will run, so it will start even better. All 8 solenoids never go bad at once short of some catastrophic event like a direct lightning strike or something.
Let's start with the basics. When you turn the key to the on position (not start) do all the dash lights come on and go off like normal? Can you hear the fuel pump come on for around 30 seconds and then shut off? How long have you had this truck? When did this problem start? Did it just not start one day, or did it slowly get worse? Does the tachometer bounce any while you try and start it?
The electrician is wrong. No power going to the injector does not mean you have a bad solenoid most of the time. If you did have one bad solenoid, it would shut down that bank of cylinders and keep power from going to them, but the other side would still run, and the truck will still start if you only have 4 cylinders working. If you unplug the bad solenoid, then the other 7 injectors will will run, so it will start even better. All 8 solenoids never go bad at once short of some catastrophic event like a direct lightning strike or something.
Let's start with the basics. When you turn the key to the on position (not start) do all the dash lights come on and go off like normal? Can you hear the fuel pump come on for around 30 seconds and then shut off? How long have you had this truck? When did this problem start? Did it just not start one day, or did it slowly get worse? Does the tachometer bounce any while you try and start it?
#6
Yes sir when i turn the key on the WTS is showing ang after in a seconds it show off then i turn the key to start still wont start also the oil level is ok. Someone told me check the fuse #30 but there is no such a #30 on the fuse box only #29 in my Ford F250 1999 model 7.3L the injector is HEUI Type and it really hell cost in the shop if i buy 1set?
#7
Welcome to FTE jepoycat. What country are you from? What year is your truck?
The electrician is wrong. No power going to the injector does not mean you have a bad solenoid most of the time. If you did have one bad solenoid, it would shut down that bank of cylinders and keep power from going to them, but the other side would still run, and the truck will still start if you only have 4 cylinders working. If you unplug the bad solenoid, then the other 7 injectors will will run, so it will start even better. All 8 solenoids never go bad at once short of some catastrophic event like a direct lightning strike or something.
Let's start with the basics. When you turn the key to the on position (not start) do all the dash lights come on and go off like normal? Can you hear the fuel pump come on for around 30 seconds and then shut off? How long have you had this truck? When did this problem start? Did it just not start one day, or did it slowly get worse? Does the tachometer bounce any while you try and start it?
The electrician is wrong. No power going to the injector does not mean you have a bad solenoid most of the time. If you did have one bad solenoid, it would shut down that bank of cylinders and keep power from going to them, but the other side would still run, and the truck will still start if you only have 4 cylinders working. If you unplug the bad solenoid, then the other 7 injectors will will run, so it will start even better. All 8 solenoids never go bad at once short of some catastrophic event like a direct lightning strike or something.
Let's start with the basics. When you turn the key to the on position (not start) do all the dash lights come on and go off like normal? Can you hear the fuel pump come on for around 30 seconds and then shut off? How long have you had this truck? When did this problem start? Did it just not start one day, or did it slowly get worse? Does the tachometer bounce any while you try and start it?
Good day Sir, It is F250 super duty pick up double cab made 1999 model the engine is 7.3L powerstroke and it USA made. It takes a year that i didnt use it because i live with my brother overseas for a year just this week i am try to use it so it wont start and i bring it to shop to check it. The Mechanic He change the engine oil and he drain also the fuel and i make it put a new diesel fuel also new battery. Today i tow my car to send back here in my home because someone told me the shop is taking me for granted. Can you help me sir what is the basic i would do maybe i can do it on my own with all the help of the staff here in FTE? I Have some knowledge of repairing but not a professional like you all here. Yeah it is normal in the dashboard when i try to start it. Actually it has a new fuel bowl also it is working good right now.But still wont start?
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#8
Let's start with the basics. When you turn the key to the on position (not start) do all the dash lights come on and go off like normal? Can you hear the fuel pump come on for around 30 seconds and then shut off? How long have you had this truck? When did this problem start? Did it just not start one day, or did it slowly get worse? Does the tachometer bounce any while you try and start it?
#9
I've had a similar sounding problem for the past 6 months or so. I found that removing the relay (top right) under the steering column and jumping it gets the truck started. The relay is good and I can change it out with others and have the same problem so it isn't a bad relay but no idea what it is. I was checking back here for answers . See if this is the same for you..... here is a pic of where I jump it......
Hello Sir, can you please give me a large picture of that relay location that you wanted me to see because i cannot see it clearly the picture it was too small maybe we are the same problem and it will be the answer to solve my problem. Thanks for giving me an info also hope it will be the answer. BTW what kind of jumper did you do on the relay?
#10
#11
If the WTS light is coming on, that rules out the fuel pump relay. I would try unplugging the ICP first as its quick and free. Then check fuel bowl drain with key on to ensure a good flow of fuel. Next I would recheck my batteries and connections. Even though it may be turning over fast enough, you might not have the proper voltage to fire the injectors. You should have at least 11.5 to 12 volts while cranking. If that doesn't do it, swap out the CPS, and then finally the IPR. That's if you don't have access to a scan tool. Doesn't hurt to have spares if these parts are still good. If these don't get you going, you will have to look at things like he HPOP, fuel pump pressure, FICM and ECM.
#12
See if this is any better. I just cut a small piece of #12 wire I had lying around and bent it into a U shape to jump the top and bottom relay terminals. It's tedious but works every day for 6 months or more. I'd still like to know the real problem to be able to fix it properly.
#13
If the WTS light is coming on, that rules out the fuel pump relay. I would try unplugging the ICP first as its quick and free. Then check fuel bowl drain with key on to ensure a good flow of fuel. Next I would recheck my batteries and connections. Even though it may be turning over fast enough, you might not have the proper voltage to fire the injectors. You should have at least 11.5 to 12 volts while cranking. If that doesn't do it, swap out the CPS, and then finally the IPR. That's if you don't have access to a scan tool. Doesn't hurt to have spares if these parts are still good. If these don't get you going, you will have to look at things like he HPOP, fuel pump pressure, FICM and ECM.
#14
When you turn the key to the ON, do you hear the fuel pump run for about 20 seconds? The fuel pump is under the truck, on the frame, near the left front door. For right now, I wouldn't worry about one injector solenoid. Even if it isn't working, the truck should at least run. Start by figuring out why the truck won't run, then deal with the solenoid.
#15
If the truck has sat for a year and now won't start, I would investigate the batteries and cables thoroughly before getting carried away with anything else. Low voltage while cranking will prevent the injector solenoids from firing. Test your "new" batteries, clean all terminals, inspect the wires themselves closely for corrosion and high resistance, and clean all the grounds. While they are at it, pull the connectors to the PCM and IDM and check them for corrosion, too. If your Wait To Start light is coming on, chances are that a fuse or relay is not the problem.