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Pikachu
Is the sensor that you refer to something different than a neutral safety switch or a different anamal all together? Just curious, I am pretty old school.
Thanks
De nada, Señor. It really isn't too much more to troubleshoot as far as the wiring and sensor go. I think it would be a good time to check for ground and signal to the starter relay coil since we've verified power is making it through the ignition switch in the start position. Check for continuity to ground on the socket for blade 85 of the starter relay. If you have continuity to ground, check for +12v to the socket for blade 86 of the starter relay with the key turned to START. (The blade numbers are normally found molded into the underside of the relay.) If you have power and ground there, about the only thing left is the wire from the fuse panel to the starter solenoid, which looks like it runs directly to the connector under the hood with no intermediate splices.
Since you're able to touch the pin from that connector to the battery post and crank the engine, at least the section from there to the starter is eliminated as a problem.
If you don't get power and ground at the relay socket, we're down to getting under the truck with the meter, probing the connector for the DTR sensor or jumpering two sockets while someone turns the key to start.
Pikachu
Is the sensor that you refer to something different than a neutral safety switch or a different anamal all together? Just curious, I am pretty old school.
Thanks
It serves the same purpose as a neutral safety switch would, plus it tells the PCM which gear position has been selected.
If you remove the start relay, a wire jumper across the socket for the normally open contacts will crank the starter. This will not require the use of the ignition switch.
The engine will not start because the fuel pump is not energized.
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