Whats going on guys, Im having a hell of a time with my truck lately. When going on vacation had some egts spiking and low boost. Took it somewhere and they diagnosed it as a bad hpop, and icp sensor. Egts and boost seem to be more normal now. After the repair Ive been having a weird issue with the truck almost having a dead pedal. It seems to drive fine then all of a sudden I go to accelerate and it does nothing. Sometimes revs up but doesn't actually go. Also sometimes when it does it, it goes up to 2000 rpms and just stays there even with the throttle fully depressed. Doesn't really go anywhere but slowly crawls along. Even had it just stall on me a couple of times as well. Manually shifting gears does not seem to change anything either. Once its starts doing this it usually keeps doing it. If I shut the truck off or it stalls and I start it back up everything works fine again. Anyone have any insight on this? The truck info is as follows,

00 F250 7.3 with automatic transmission
-cold air intake
-garret gtp38r ball bearing turbo
-boost fooler
-ts 6 position chip
-billet plenums
-ebpv delete
-international bellowed up pipes
-4 in turbo back exhaust
-brand new b-d intercooler boots and plenum boots
-dieselsite adrenaline hoop
-new icp sensor and pigtails

Im pulling my hair out trying to figure this all out.

 

Just a guess, but throttle position sensor maybe?

 

I thought of that but would that cause it to stall or just hang at 2000 rpms? Also when I let off the throttle it drops like it knows the pedal is being pushed.

 

Boost fooler and/or chip would be first on my list. These are screwing with a system that depends on feedback from sensors that are expected to be within a specified range - feedback outside that range wrecks havoc.

Kill the fooler and chip, reset the pcm, go thru 3 drive cycles and see if things improve.

 

I've had them both installed for over a year without issues. Could a bad tach sensor be causing these issues too? Every now and then the tach reading doesn't show on the dash very rare. But it happens from time to time.

 

I've had similar issues and ended up being the map sensor.

 

Remove the chip completely and test it. It's free and the first thing to remove when diagnosing.

 

The tach displays output from the PCM.
The PCM is currently hacked by the aftermarket chip and the fooler.
Kill the hacks, get the real data (PIDs) is the first step in diagnosis.

Simple and much cheaper than throwing parts at an undefined issue!

 

Also, if the shop who did the diagnosis did not disable the hacks and scan with a fully Ford OBD2 Diesel compliant scan tool - the diagnosis is worse than useless.

If you do not have access to a Ford OBD2 Diesel compliant scan tool, and disable the chip and fooler hacks you are throwing blind darts.

Disable and completely disconnect ALL hacks!

Get a proper scan, make note of any DTCs and pending codes.

Killing the hacks may or may not clear some or all of the issues. Note that the PCM is running an adaptive strategy and will need to complete a full drive cycle after a PCM reset.

Scan again AFTER ALL THIS and if there is still an issue at least you will have tested from a clean and unadulterated slate.

My bet is the disabling of the hacks, and the PCM reset and relearn will at least give a clear path to follow - if not resolve the issue!

 

How do I reset the pcm? Ill give it a try and see what happens.

 

My other question would be why did it all run fine before with all the stuff installed? Then all of a sudden start doing this?

 

Yanking the chip is a PCM restore. As to why it worked better before the Kilngons invaded - there's your clue.

 

So if neither of these solve anything where's the next step

 

Would be best if you could monitor systems. Do you have a scanner, android phone, windows laptop?


Click on the OBII link in Tugly's signature and see what you need. This is the best way not to spend money throwing parts at it that you don't need.

 

Alright I'll give that a shot. What should I monitor and what should the values be?