Electrical Question...
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
Well it was too good to be true. Last August I installed the horn switch with the help of this forum. A couple of weeks ago the horn became stuck again. I hit the horn a bunch of times and it stopped. It did the same thing to me where it just started going off as I was in my house. I was pulling the fuse out once home, then putting it in the next time I drove. Not optimum, but it was working, until the other day where now the horn is stuck on all the time. I have the fuse out, but as soon as I put it back, it's blaring.
I used a Dorman switch and plan to take everything apart again and reinstall. Anyone ever see something like this before? I figured the new switch would be good for years. Anything else I should look for?
I used a Dorman switch and plan to take everything apart again and reinstall. Anyone ever see something like this before? I figured the new switch would be good for years. Anything else I should look for?
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
I'm also back to my backyard mechanic way of thinking and wanted to know if there was anyway to wire an on/off switch to a fuse? This way I could keep the "fuse" in the box and a switch would activate / deactivate it.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
I was worried about the quality of Dorman, but less than a year? I really don't want to buy an OEM switch, they're at least double the Dorman price.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,507
Likes: 121
From: Oregon
The OEM one may be double the price, but look at it this way. The first one has failed you in less than a year. Now your going to have to buy a second one. Had you have purchased OEM you would be out roughly the same money and you wouldn't have this issue again in less than a year....
You get what you pay for. You couldn't GIVE me anything made by Dorman.
You get what you pay for. You couldn't GIVE me anything made by Dorman.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
The OEM one may be double the price, but look at it this way. The first one has failed you in less than a year. Now your going to have to buy a second one. Had you have purchased OEM you would be out roughly the same money and you wouldn't have this issue again in less than a year....
You get what you pay for. You couldn't GIVE me anything made by Dorman.
You get what you pay for. You couldn't GIVE me anything made by Dorman.
https://www.getoemparts.com/oem-part...02c?origin=pla
I really don't want to have to buy another, but I am going to have to go OEM.
Any possibility it's just moved inside and could be "repositioned"? Not sure if anyone has ever seen that before?
And why the hell would they design this so that when the switch fails the horn stays on? At least design it so the horn would stay off.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
If you were going to hit some kids in the street and could save then by honking would you rather have the horn stuck on or on not on at all?
I know that was brutal but you have to think like a guy with lawyers hanging from the walls like vampire bats ready for your neck to be exposed.
One way to get somewhat of a better price would be from >>> FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts and with the Ford part you do get a
two years unlimited milage warrantee.
I know that was brutal but you have to think like a guy with lawyers hanging from the walls like vampire bats ready for your neck to be exposed.
One way to get somewhat of a better price would be from >>> FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts and with the Ford part you do get a
two years unlimited milage warrantee.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
Just a bit of an update and some further questions. I took the horn switch apart today, cleaned it, and put it back together. Everything inside looked fine, nothing was dirty or damaged. I put it back together and the horn is working and not stuck on. So here are my questions:
What makes the switch get stuck on?
Is there a replacement for the outer cover? I don't think so because it's riveted in on one side.
Asking about the outer cover because I notice that the contact point is in the middle on the inside, where the Ford emblem is on the outside. That area has been pushed in a bit for a long time. While I had the cover opened up, I pushed it back the best I could, but it keeps going back to that pushed in way it was. Maybe that could be causing the cover to push into the switch, making the horn stay on at times?
What makes the switch get stuck on?
Is there a replacement for the outer cover? I don't think so because it's riveted in on one side.
Asking about the outer cover because I notice that the contact point is in the middle on the inside, where the Ford emblem is on the outside. That area has been pushed in a bit for a long time. While I had the cover opened up, I pushed it back the best I could, but it keeps going back to that pushed in way it was. Maybe that could be causing the cover to push into the switch, making the horn stay on at times?
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 272
Likes: 3
I'm still pulling the fuse out when I'm not in or around the vehicle, but resetting the switch seems to help. The horn has not gone off at all while driving and I've used it a few times as well.
Still unclear as to why the horn beeps when the switch goes bad, you'd think they design it where the horn doesn't work if the switch is bad, maybe I'm missing something here?
Still curious though if there is a way to add a switch to a fuse? Even if the switch is working now and there are now issues, I'm worried about it failing again. I'd like to not replace it again, because if I do, it would be OEM and a bit over $300. My thought is that if I had a way to control the fuse from a switch, it would be far easier to turn on and off. The horn got stuck while I was driving before I reset it and I had to pull over and pull the fuse, would be nice to be able to "power" the fuse somewhere from a switch that is accessible. Any ideas?
Still unclear as to why the horn beeps when the switch goes bad, you'd think they design it where the horn doesn't work if the switch is bad, maybe I'm missing something here?
Still curious though if there is a way to add a switch to a fuse? Even if the switch is working now and there are now issues, I'm worried about it failing again. I'd like to not replace it again, because if I do, it would be OEM and a bit over $300. My thought is that if I had a way to control the fuse from a switch, it would be far easier to turn on and off. The horn got stuck while I was driving before I reset it and I had to pull over and pull the fuse, would be nice to be able to "power" the fuse somewhere from a switch that is accessible. Any ideas?
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