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I don't know what you're doing, but a full ball joint and Axle U-joint job for me only takes about 3 hours..... And I do a lot of them with little more than a hammer and a ball joint press.
I was thinking the same thing, Your shop quoted you quite high, I just did all ball joints / 4X4 seals etc. in half a day on my excursion.
I have a rear wheel drive so there is not as much to do from what i was seeing on the FSD guys site.
the 4x4 make it a bit more interesting it seems. guess i need a good gear puller to get the tie rod ends apart or can you tap them with the nut on and pop them loose?..
I have a rear wheel drive so there is not as much to do from what i was seeing on the FSD guys site.
the 4x4 make it a bit more interesting it seems. guess i need a good gear puller to get the tie rod ends apart or can you tap them with the nut on and pop them loose?..
Smack around on the steering knuckle where the tie rods bolt onto with a BFH. Don't hit on the tie rod itself...that's a good way to damage it. Or do it the easy way and use a pitman arm puller or a ball joint separator.
I got 180k from the stock ball joints, abused by an 8 foot V plow and a 4 horse trailer over four wheel drive roads that would jar the ***** off a bull.
Replaced with AC/Delco grease-able.
We'll be pleased to get another 200k (no longer plow).
BTW - You can borrow the tools to remove and replace ball joints from AutoZone or Advance Auto to make the job nearly a cakewalk!
Pay the price of the tool, return undamaged, get full refund on loaner program. Makes a tough job easy.
Good idea to pay the somewhat higher than internet price for replacement parts and materials from the brick & mortar parts house that so graciously supplied the loaner tool!
I got 180k from the stock ball joints, abused by an 8 foot V plow and a 4 horse trailer over four wheel drive roads that would jar the ***** off a bull.
Replaced with AC/Delco grease-able.
We'll be pleased to get another 200k (no longer plow).
BTW - You can borrow the tools to remove and replace ball joints from AutoZone or Advance Auto to make the job nearly a cakewalk!
Pay the price of the tool, return undamaged, get full refund on loaner program. Makes a tough job easy.
Good idea to pay the somewhat higher than internet price for replacement parts and materials from the brick & mortar parts house that so graciously supplied the loaner tool!
Did you have any issues with memory steer with those AC Delco ball joints? I installed Raybestos ball joints which is repackaged by AC Delco and NAPA. While they are high quality pieces, the tolerances are way too damn tight making it difficult to move the steering knuckles by hand. I put over 10k miles on them and they still hadn't loosened up. So then I installed Moog ball joints...same issues. Finally I installed XRF ball joints - problem solved.
Did you have any issues with memory steer with those AC Delco ball joints? I installed Raybestos ball joints which is repackaged by AC Delco and NAPA. While they are high quality pieces, the tolerances are way too damn tight making it difficult to move the steering knuckles by hand. I put over 10k miles on them and they still hadn't loosened up. So then I installed Moog ball joints...same issues. Finally I installed XRF ball joints - problem solved.
They were fairly tight when installed. Greased them and have been driving on them about 1.5k. Certainly the front end is more stable, but I don't think overly stiff.
Did you have any issues with memory steer with those AC Delco ball joints? I installed Raybestos ball joints which is repackaged by AC Delco and NAPA. While they are high quality pieces, the tolerances are way too damn tight making it difficult to move the steering knuckles by hand. I put over 10k miles on them and they still hadn't loosened up. So then I installed Moog ball joints...same issues. Finally I installed XRF ball joints - problem solved.
Not saying this is/was your problem, but an improper torque (and sequence) will cause the issues you described.
Not saying this is/was your problem, but an improper torque (and sequence) will cause the issues you described.
I wish I could say that was the problem, but it wasn't. I followed the manufacturer's torque specs and even tried using Ford's. The Raybestos and Moog ball joints for the Dana 50 axles are a bit too tight for my liking.
SO would it be a good idea to replace any other steering parts while this is down.. tie rod ends etc??
also after replacing the ball joints should i have front end alignment done as well?? I know on my e-250 there was an issue with camber adjustment and they said in needed a kit at like 100 bucks.. should I get the adjustable camber kit and install that when putting the ball joints back in and then get it aligned??
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