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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 10:05 AM
  #16  
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IF KOEO means "key on engine on" then thats what those numbers are. All at idle. warm in the driveway.

EBP: 17.2
BARO: 14.6
MAP: 15.0

I read that they should be the same so I took the EBP off and cleaned it and the tube. They actually were very clean so I dont think it helped. I certainly didnt feel anything. The big thing I noticed that I havent figured out through reading here is if those numbers should be exactly the same or close and if close what that tolerance is.

What I thought was strange but also havent found info on is if those numbers should be the same throughout the rpm range. As you can see the EBP jumps way up to 48 at full throttle. So at higher rpm they arent even close to the same.

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 10:06 AM
  #17  
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KOEO= Key On Engine OFF
 
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 10:15 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Was the truck having the issue when you took those numbers

They show good

Must check when drivability issue is present
BARO
Map
Boost
Ebp
No it wasnt having this issue at the time.
BUT it was having a little hesitation or slight random bucking when climbing a grade and also in the mornings when cold. Also the gas mileage blows around town and when towing my 2800lb trailer and it seems I have to really stick my foot in it when Im towing that little thing or when I accelerate from a stop which I thought was strange so I started checking things out. The only other thing I've noticed is that its not smoking at all which has been leading me to a fuel supply issue. I changed the fuel filters and that helped the morning hesitation a lot but not on long hills. I just watched a video last night on checking fuel pressure and changing those two little sock type filters in the tank. I think that could be a problem so those and a turbo cleaning are my next mechanical servicing.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 10:35 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
KOEO= Key On Engine OFF
Gotcha.

I have that info too.

BARO: 14.6
MAP: 14.7
EBP: 14.8
 
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 12:14 PM
  #20  
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So did you catch boost psi during the event

Pull the turbo
Some hAve cleaned the Vgt
 
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 02:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
So did you catch boost psi during the event

Pull the turbo
Some hAve cleaned the Vgt
No unfortunately I have no gauges. Its the wifes car so Im lucky to have convinced her that she needed this. I need more time before I add a bunch of stuff that she doesnt appreciate I will try and and get it cleaned this weekend and post up what I find out.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 10:04 PM
  #22  
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Alright so I havent pulled the turbo yet but I got some new readings. My buddy brought home is scan gauge from work today so heres all the details. What I noticed is that when I let off the throttle from full or even medium throttle the VGT number shoots to 84% and hangs there until I get back on the throttle. Also the VGT is around 80% at idle. Im thinking that that means its the turbo sticking but any input on this would be great! Hopefully these numbers mean something to you guys? I keep reading the MAP, EBP and BARO should be the same but still dont understand their relationship when the engine is running?

Thanks, I really appreciate all your help. Also, is there a thread somewhere that I should know about that specifically talks all these numbers and what they mean?

KOEO
EBP: 14.6
MAP: 14.4
BARO: 14.5


At IDLE
EBP: 17
MAP: 14.6
BARO: 14.5
FICM: 48.49
MAF: .05
VGT: varries between 76%-80%
Load: 29%

Full Throttle
EBP: 32
MAP: 36
BARO: 14.5
FICM: 48.5
MAF: 4
VGT: varries between 38%-45%
Load: 100%


EGR: cruise around neighborhood approx 25%, full throttle 18%, Back off after full throttle 45%

VGT after letting off from full throttle: straight to 84% and stayed there until back on throttle
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 09:56 AM
  #23  
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Your MAP,EBP, and BARO at KOEO is showing that they agree. Your manifold pressure is the same as the barometric pressure outside and the exhaust pressure is the same inside and outside so the PCM has a good baseline to start from for fueling and such.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 09:57 PM
  #24  
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Hey guys just want to say thanks again for the support so far on this and to give a quick update.

I finally got the turbo cleaned. The vanes were definitely sticking so I cleaned everything up and got them smoothed out. Fortunately the unison ring was in great shape so thats good. I also picked up a billet wheel since I was digging into it. They sure do look nice

Unfortunately it didnt really change much. I think it might be a little smoother but still no power. Gotta say the hardest part is getting that damn turbo to line back up with the up pipe. That took longer than the whole rest of the job. And my stomach was sore for two days from laying on the radiator. Not fun.

So since I still was at a loss I got my neighbor to let me hook up his smoke machine at his shop and I found a few things. My intake hose between the MAF and turbo was leaking at the PCV plug and at the base of the MAF and at the flange where it connects to the turbo. So we got those temporarily sealed just to see if it would help. It didnt but to honest the first plastic hose from the turbo is junk and probably started leaking again before we go out of the parking lot, I just need to buy a new one.

I also found a leak on the hose that goes from the intercooler to the intake manifold. I had looked there before but that smoke machine really made things easier. Im thinking or hoping that thats the issue with low power. I rechecked my boost numbers and they wont go above 18 so its definitely worse than before so maybe that leak is worse than it was. So i need to find a replacement for that. It makes sense to me that low boost equals low power but I haven't gottne my head around the idea that the boost would leak out at low boost off the line. Seems the problem would be worse at higher boost levels?

The strange thing is that when we left his shop i pulled it out of the bay and shut it down. Five minutes later I tried to start it back up and it wouldnt start. So after we spent ten minutes trying to figure out what we broke we decided to plug the scanner back in and it showed a p2991 code. So it looks like I have an oil leak. I've read about all the ways to check for a leak but I think im just gonna buy everything I need and just replace it all so I can check it all off the list. Im hoping you guys can give me a quick run down on the things I should fix or upgrade while Im in their. I figure I will just pull the HPOP and replace that rear block fitting, plus replace the o-rings on the rails under that valve covers and also the injector seals too. Might as well clean the injector shuttle valves also. I've been reading about stand pipes but havent gotten that far yet to figure out what they even are. Gonna figure out if I need those too. The injectors were replaced about 40k miles ago so I dont think i need to replace them and the HPOP was also replaced at the same time. So hopefully I can replace some o-rings and get things done under there for a while.

If you guys can let me know of anything else I should look at or fix while im in there please let me know.

Thanks, Jeff
 
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